xdanny510x

what type of oil would i need to break a 408 ci stroker engine in?
Valvoline Vr1 20-50?
i heard that would be it but if not would someone plz chime in

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

I used Shell Rotella-T 30 weight for initial startup breakin with 1 bottle of comp cams break-in additive. Then after the intial break-in I went to Rotella-T 15w-40. I will add a bottle of comp cams additive at every oil change, even after I switch to synthetic later (after 1,000 miles). I have done alot of research on this topic and this is what I believe to be the best.

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

Shell Rotella-T (15/40) for the first 100-200 miles, then any conventional oil after that. I wouldnt run synthetic for a MINIMUM of a few thousand miles. But that really depends on the rings your running.

I go 3000 miles before switching..

JBM

iTrader: (15)

I'm using Valvoline racing/nsl with a 2:1 ratio of 10-30 and 20-50.

Tom@SpeedInc

iTrader: (5)

I would use regular Castrol or valvoline 20W50 during first few hours on the engine.

get what ever is on sale, your going to need a few quarts for break in.

Personally I change the oil and filter twice within the first hour of engine operation, or till I discontinue seeing assembly lube in the oil.

Then drop in your VR1

dca1042

over here in oz we us and i recommend to my customers 10w30 problend valvoline,we use it in all our ls engines,no cold rattle/burning issues at all.mpg is lost in these engines with any heavier viscosity.
my 2 cents worth,
cheers dave

______________________

vn commodore iron 427,l92 heads,255/264 114 .635",90 t/b 1.875 headers,super44s 3" duals th400 3500 3.7 9".330rwkw.

89Formulaws6

iTrader: (52)

dang i was told just reg dino oil but change it after 1st start up and again a few hundred miles

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

Rotella is dino oil. It just has more zinc and phosphorus in it to help prevent scuffing of piston vs cylinder wall especially during break-in. Just do it! It is cheap (price) oil.

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

Here you go. Check it out for yourself!

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...ntro_1006.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

89Formulaws6

iTrader: (52)

i know what rotella is i work at a autoparts store, i just read that in a hot rod mag that it was better for non roller older style motors,

but hey like u said its cheap, i was just curious about the thickness being a prob or not

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

Like I said before, I used the 30 wt for the initial break-in first 30 minutes to 1 hour. Then went to the 15w-40. What I did was blend 1 quart of 30 wt in with the 15w-40 after the initial.

Have you heard of this guy? Good stuff:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Rotella for the first 1000 miles with 2 oil changes then Valvoline Racing "Not for Street" for 2k miles and 2 oil changes and then Mobil 1 10-40 after 3k miles. It may seem excessive but my 403 does not smole and uses not oil at all.

bad2dbone

iTrader: (37)

They Told Me Its Best To Use The Oil Ur Gna Use Whenever Ur Racing N Doing Wateva

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'm glad to see this topic as I was wondering this myself earlier today.

Screamin_Z

iTrader: (2)

wha.......?

lstvr

And i thought it was a culture thing!!

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

i was told to run reg 5w30 with STP added for the first hundred miles or so or half hour ish, then switch to reg 5w30, then go to your 5w30 synthetic

HTMtrSprt

I would not recommend anything heavier than a 30 wt oil - it simply requires too much heat to reach proper flow rate. Engine protection is about oil film strength and proper flow rate through the bearings. Heavy oils make lots of oil pressure but don't flow well enough until they reach AT LEAST 180 degrees. I use Brad Penn 30wt break-in oil in all our engines on the dyno - it has so much zinc, manganese and sulfated ash, it doesn't need any additives even for flat tappet cam break-in. After about 8-10 full throttle pulls on the engine dyno, I switch to whatever oil will be run from then on..... usually Red Line racing synthetic (10, 20 or 30wt., depending on application). This has proven to work very well in our engines and has seated piston rings better than ever. The last big block chevy I did for NHRA stock elim. had only 1.6 cfm of blow by @7000 RPM which is extremely low according to my Total Seal ring guy. (this was NOT a gapless ring design btw)

superssport

iTrader: (150)

These are the instructions I recieved from scoggin-dickey. They worked great for me. My rings seated great.

Information and Break-In Recommendations for
Your SDPC Engine or Short Block

Thank you for choosing Scoggin-Dickey as your engine supplier! Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center opened its doors in 1929 and since that time we have been one of the leading suppliers of complete engines, short blocks, and engine components. It is our goal to provide you with the latest in engine technology and the highest standard of performance. Whether you have purchased a new OEM factory built crate engine or a custom built SDPC engine or short block, it is imperative that you take the time to read the following instructions in regards to engine oil, PCV systems, fuel systems, and engine break-in.

Today’s Oil and What You Need to Know
Motor oil has had several significant changes in the last ten years and more importantly in 2004 a decision was made to reduce the sulfur and the zinc-phosphorus compounds (ZDDP). The ZDDP is used as the primary anti-wear agent for internal engine components. Beginning with the 2004 model of new vehicles, the Federal Government has asked auto manufacturers to warranty catalytic converters for 120,000-miles.
Most catalytic convertors eventually fail from harmful gases emitted thru the exhaust, and two of these are the phosphorous and sulfur which were a prevalent make-up of our older motor oils. All engines will consume some oil thru the exhaust! While in most cases this is only a very small amount, the automakers decided it was time to change the chemistry of motor oil rather than adding to the cost of catalytic converters.
This change in engine oil has had a significant impact on the performance engine world, specifically engines with forged pistons and/or flat tappet camshafts. The lack of the zinc-phosphorus compounds has been a primary cause of premature failure in flat tappet camshafts and lifters. Current oils for gasoline engines have the ZDDP compounds reduced by 20% or more. We have seen an overwhelming increase in piston scuff and premature ring wear. We have torn down performance engines with less than 1500-miles and seen piston scuff and ring wear that looked as if the engine had 100,000-miles! All caused from super low viscosity oils with poor anti-wear characteristics and a lack of following proper break-in procedures.
If you have purchased a custom built short block with forged pistons and a performance ring package, then we have taken every precaution to coat the cylinder walls, pistons, and rings with an anti-wear agent. However, it is imperative that you choose engine oil with a significant amount of ZDDP and we require the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) for a minimum of the first 90-minutes. For forged pistons with moly rings or HD steel rings and engines with flat tappet camshafts we suggest an engine oil with a minimum ZDDP content of the following;

Approximate Percentage by Weight
Zinc – 0.120
Phosphorus – 0.115
Suggested Oils;
Shell Rotella-T 15W40 API Specification CI-4 Plus
Valvoline NSL Racing Oil 10W30 (Conventional Motor Oil, excellent for break-in!)
Pennzoil 25W50 Racing Motor Oil

PCV Systems
The LS-Series engines are prone to excessive crank case pressure build-up resulting in oil blow-by, oil consumption, and oil wetting of the intake manifold. One of the first changes from GM to help resolve this issue was the bay-to-bay “windows” placed in the main webs of the blocks. Any increase in cubic inches places more demand on the PCV system, regardless of the engine type. GM has made several changes to the PCV systems over the years and many consumers have a mismatch of parts and components. It is imperative that you inspect your PCV system and make certain that it functions properly. If you are using a factory PCV system it is required that you use a new “fixed orifice” PCV valve for routing your pressure relief hose from the valve cover. This valve is included with all custom SDPC LS-Series short blocks and engines. The GM part number for this item is #12572717.

Fuel System and Tuning
It is imperative that you make every effort to have your fuel system in proper working order prior to engine start-up. Inspection of the supply lines, return lines, filters, regulators, and proper fuel pressure are the responsibility of the car owner and/or installer. It is extremely critical that you have a PCM calibrated for the correct pressure and injectors before starting the vehicle. Any over rich condition existing for an extended period of time during the initial start-up will cause piston scuffing, ring wear, and severely hinder the ability for the rings to seat properly and may ruin the complete engine! It is the responsibility of the owner and/or installer to calibrate the PCM or the carburetor to prevent internal engine damage.

Engine Break-In
Use the correct engine oil with the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS)!! We recommend two 45-minute break-in periods allowing ample time between each for a complete cool down of the engine. Each period should consist of varied RPM and load with a limit on the RPM of 4500. Avoid extended duration of constant RPM! After the 90-minute period you should drain the oil and inspect the filter. Replace with a new filter and use one of the recommended oils from the list above or one that you have verified that has the proper amount of ZDDP. If you have purchased an engine with forged pistons it is imperative that you always use oil with sufficient ZDDP for the entire life of the engine! We do not recommend a change to Synthetic oil until a minimum of 5000-miles to insure proper ring seating.
SDPC does not warranty any application with the use of power adders i.e. – turbochargers, superchargers, nitrous. If it is determined that premature ring wear, ring sealing, or piston scuffing, and/or engine failure is the result of improper tuning, incorrect oil, improper installation, and/or the use of power adders, then all repairs, parts, materials, shipping expenses, and labor will be the sole responsibility of the purchaser.

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

I've been using Rotella T for years on roller and non-roller applications - it's always worked flawlessly. Rotella T is designed for Diesel engines and it's manufactured without the detergents of traditional gasoline-engine oils. Unlike traditional oils that change mixture compositions to stay cost-effective, Shell's Rotella hasnt had a mixture change since 1988! Kind of makes you wonder how its quality has remained the same and cheap, while other oils quality decreases, yet their price goes up. Hmmmm. I'm sure it has something to do with the cost of refinement, but still...

The quality of your engine begins and ends with the shop (or person) building it. If your specs are calibrated correctly, the break-in on a roller motor should go very smoothly. If not, it really doesn't matter what oil you put into it.