JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Have it reground and sell it, or just scrap it.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I think Im ready for patrick G to spec me out a cam and ill pay the fee

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You can do that too. I'm gonna guess and say that he's gonna tell you to do something along the lines of a 240/244 620/605 lift on a 111+3



But that's my guess.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

well last time, before I chose to go with a fast 92/92, He said something like:

238/240 .612"/.609" 111LSA +2 advance.

using 5.3 heads in the 402....

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

LOL, probably a pretty close guess then, save your 30 bucks and just have my #'s gound, they're free.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Ok you know what... Im gonna do this:

402, 5.3 heads that I already have and a cam he suggested... then in a couple of months get a fast 92/92

then Im gonna get a different cam and different heads in teh future, as well as new headers...

then maybe later on go FI, because I surely cannot afford a 427, plus why get a brand new block, again?

sounds like Im just wasting my money, but its all I can afford now...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I understand the $, with the way things are these days it's amazing any of us have $ to do this stuff anymore.

You're on the right track, I'd get what you know will work, and put it togeher for now. I'd change the heads and cam and headers all at once to save yourself some work and tuning time. And I agree, ya really don't need a 427, I dunno how the streets are out in cali, but I know one thing for sure the pwr my car made initially was more then any street could hold, and I'm up probably 50 rwhp from where I started when the new motor went in. I don't drive it anymore, but I know traction would be non existant.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

imma contact texas speed and see what they recommend also..

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

no comment on that one

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Hahah what are you doing up is 2:30am PST!!!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Im just gona get recommendations from TExas speed and Ill get one from Patrick G as well...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It's 5:30 here


Do what ya want, but of all the people that I have seen put tsp cams in cars, they never seem to make the power that they should. Why that is I have no idea, it just seems like they don't make any steam. Hell I know of a h/c car running afr heads, prety much all the bolton's except the elec water pump, and has one of those torquer cams in it and the car doesn't even make 400 rwhp. It's funny to watch it go down the track, it makes all the noise and whatnot of a fast h/c car, but just doesn't get out of it's own way, amusing to say the least.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

my H/C car made 432rwhp and 414rwtq with the torquer 3 and the 5.3 heads Im gonna re use, through a 12 bolt, but I had a aluminum fw and 25%udp and all boltons except EWP.. and power steering, ac, etc..

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I was looking at running this cam in a 403, curious if anyone has and what their results were. What kind of compression are you guys running in a 402/403 with this cam and what HP are you making. Curious to know what the minimum comp ratio this cam needs in a 402/403. Like you say guys are making 480 RWHP in 346's and over 430 with stock heads which would lead me to believe it works well at 10.5:1 on the smaller 346.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'm a bad example of a 402 setup, because it's a very racy setup. BUt, that beign said the cam is a good bit bigger then I'd tell someone to put in anything you are gonna drive on the street, and I'm also running a healthy 13.5 to 1 compresion... again not really the morn either.

a mid 240 duration cam with 11.5 to 1 compression is gonna make good steam that I am sure of, buddy of mine on here (intenss) made over 500 with a tq curve that was absolutely disgusting with a 240 sized cam in his iron block 402 before the valves in his afr heads decided to mushroom (he was one of the unfortunate to get a set with the junk valves a while ago) but it's getting taken care of now, and will be back up and running soon.

After seeing what my valvesprings looked like with the cam I'm running, I can tell you to keep teh lift under 600 and the ramp rates on the mild side for something you drive every day. I had about 50 runs, probably 25 dyno pulls and about 500 steet miles and my springs were shot... so a guy that wants to drive his car alot, either needs to keep the cam on the mild side of things, or know the valvesprings, really do need changing every 7500 to 9000 miles to be safe.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I am screwing together a 403 right now and found that the Mahle piston I am using has a 1.105" CD which puts it at .010" in the hole, more like .012"-.014" that I measured on a NEW LS2 block. The piston is a -12cc and I got a .040" Cometic with a 62cc AFR 205. I am tempted to cut the block .015" on the deck and use it. This would give me about 11.1:1. I have the Vindicator 240/244 112 +4 and want to run it. My other option is to buy a -2cc Diamond and run the 225 AFR I have that are 69cc which would give me 11.4 or so. Then I would have to re-balance and most likely add some Tungsten (weight) to the crank which is a PITA. Trying to get by on the cheap, and kind wanted to run my AFR 205's. I could mill them another .012-.014" and get them to 60cc and be a little higher then 11.35:1.........decisions, decisons. Would like to run in the 10's, been 11.50 with my stock weight h/c 346 so far. Do you think I would get there at 11.1:1 with my 403/AFR 205/Ported Fast 90/ 1 7/8 Kooks/4000 SS/3.70 9"/Hoosier QTP/stck weight

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

IMO, the heads will hold you back. They are gonna peak way too early with a bigger displacment motor. You may get to a 10 second pass, but the difference is using what you have and maybe squesking out a 10.9, or do it right and get a solid 10.6 car... I'd rather do it right up front and not be wondering what you're leaving on the table to be honest.

That vindicator cam is a good starting point, that's not too big, and should certainly make some steam.

There are some people on here that will tell you the smaller runner is better, don't go over 225, blah blah. I made 480 rwhp thru a 5400 rpm unlocked n/a converter and a th400 with a set of ET 240 heads.

I am not sure if it's in the budget or not, but if you can get yourself a set of 240's with the chamber size you need to bump that compression to 11.5 to 1, I'd do that. Get a thinner head gasket too if you can, that will also help your cause, I think the stock GM mls one is thinner then .040 and for your purposes it would be fine. If you can't find a set of the et 240 or 225's anywhere, look into a set of trickflow 225's, they need aftermarket rocker arms but that's not the end of the world either.

You're in a good position with the AFR's though, you can probably sell them for 1600 or so to cover a good chunk of the cost of the new heads. I'm sure that if ou call TEA you probably can get a set of the trickflow 225 or 235 heads with the chamber size you need to get the compression to 11.5 to 1 with the head gaskets you have and all, so that will save ya some $ as well. You probably need them with a about a 58 to 60 cc chamber on them to get the compression you need (I"m guessing on that, PLEASE do the math and check don't take that as fact)

11.5 to 1 with that cam and a set of 225 to 240 cc heads, you should be good to go

JS

iTrader: (4)

When we spec'd the cam for a upcomming 402 we checked the SCR/DCR and ran it according to max efficency...We didnt want something that would give us fits tuning or driving as my customer wanted it all meaning horse power,streetabilty,and torque...

We are using a Dart 225
The heads were setup using PSI 1511 springs set at 1.80@138PSI
We are +4 in the hole and using a -6CC piston (-2 valve relief/-4 dish)

Once we figured out the correct cam,head gasket we checked PTV
We decided since the piston was in the hole we need a thinner head gasket and went with a Cometic .040 and the final CC on the head was 63 for a SCR of 11.56 and 8.68 DCR which we believe was just about perfect..

Cam specs ended up being a XFI lobe since they are easier on the valvetrain than a XER and afford u to run more lift to take advantage of the free flowing head..

Final spec were: XFI 23X-24X 61X-61X 11X+2 (Sorry the numbers are private)
The Dur. numbers are about 2 degree larger at .006/.200 for XFI lobes according to Comp Cams over there XER brothers...

We think we hit the nail on the head with this cam
PatrickG helped me with this cam and is a great guy....

We're hoping for a TRUE HONEST NO BS SAE 500RW
SLP 402/Dart 225/Ported Fast/Comp XFI

We will have numbers in about 3 weeks

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You probably will hit that # with the given setup. I can tell that it's not too wild of a setup just by the valvespring seat pressure, if you can get away with that seat pressure the cam can't be that wild.

JS

iTrader: (4)

Its not but it will handle this XFI cam no problemo
I think this poster also wants something in this range and thats why I posted up

I will give him a hint on our cam
Look to a dur. in the high 230/low 240 and lift in the 600 range..
This will make for a nice street/strip 402 cam...

Our cam should be all done at 6200 and we should be shifting at 6500..
I think this poster would love that type of cam

Lastly the psi I am giving u is about 5% lower than we actually seen when checking..I just figured we will lose about 5 to 7 psi once broken in on the dyno.....
EG 145 - 5% = 137.75...