LS3 stock bottom end for Forced Induction?
06-14-2008, 07:48 PM
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LS3 stock bottom end for Forced Induction? Hi,
I am thinking of taking a stock block LS3 (from a 2008 vette) and just replacing the pistons with some low compression forged ones.
How good is the rest of the bottom end? Or should I be replacing the crank and rods with upgraded parts also?
If suggesting "uprated" crank and rods which ones would you recommend on the basis of price vs performance?
I am thinking of taking a stock block LS3 (from a 2008 vette) and just replacing the pistons with some low compression forged ones.
How good is the rest of the bottom end? Or should I be replacing the crank and rods with upgraded parts also?
If suggesting "uprated" crank and rods which ones would you recommend on the basis of price vs performance?
06-14-2008, 08:56 PM
#2
We need more info on the rest of the build.
I mean less than 10#s of boost go for it. More than 10#s go forged. Also if your going to forge it you might as well stroke it.
It really depends on your budget.
I mean less than 10#s of boost go for it. More than 10#s go forged. Also if your going to forge it you might as well stroke it.
It really depends on your budget.
06-14-2008, 09:32 PM
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I'm planning on getting the Kenne Bell Twin Screw when it comes out for the C6 corvette.
I am planning on buying a 2008 corvette because I know the heads are the same ports as the ZR1 the kit is being developed for.
With lower compression I know I can dial up the boost higher than I could with stock pistons, but then I am worried about the crank/rods and the rest of the driveline. (2008 corvette has the tremec 6060 so at least that is good)
Horsepower? Whatever is safe on pump gas. I'm guessing 650 rwhp would be reasonable.
I am planning on buying a 2008 corvette because I know the heads are the same ports as the ZR1 the kit is being developed for.
With lower compression I know I can dial up the boost higher than I could with stock pistons, but then I am worried about the crank/rods and the rest of the driveline. (2008 corvette has the tremec 6060 so at least that is good)
Horsepower? Whatever is safe on pump gas. I'm guessing 650 rwhp would be reasonable.
06-14-2008, 09:41 PM
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*Steering rack and pinion is different (better road feel)
*Shifter is improved
*Transmission is now a Tremec 6060 rather than a T-56
*LS3 vs LS2
*seats are better on the 2008
06-14-2008, 10:41 PM
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nice choice.
I thought you meant you were buying a ls3 block at first.
I know a ls2 GTO saw 650 rwhp w/ next to no modifications(besides the procharger). I think fuel injectors and maybe some other minimal items. The LS3 should be able to do the same if not much better.
I thought you meant you were buying a ls3 block at first.
I know a ls2 GTO saw 650 rwhp w/ next to no modifications(besides the procharger). I think fuel injectors and maybe some other minimal items. The LS3 should be able to do the same if not much better.
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06-15-2008, 09:35 AM
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How about the Eagle rods and Eagle forged crank?
At what power levels would I need these at?
Also does anyone know what the connecting rods and crank are made out of in the stock corvette LS3 engine?
At what power levels would I need these at?
Also does anyone know what the connecting rods and crank are made out of in the stock corvette LS3 engine?
06-15-2008, 10:14 AM
#9
If you going to take it apart then you might as well forge it, you'll be pretty unhappy if you break something it. Then you can turn up the boost without fear.
Scat has come out with a new LS1 crank and I'm told from my builderr that its an extremely nice peice. Same price as the Eagle, We're using it now. You wont have issue with Scat and Eagle but Callies is a little better so its your budget. Our Scat/Eagle combo uis 250 less than the Callies combo.
I would have it cleaned up .005 and line honed with ARP and then of course decked for proper quench to your pistons. All in all you save yourself about $400 in labor costs if you assemble it yourself, but I would not skip the above steps.
I guess in short, if your going to crack it open then why not just build it once and not take chances. Otherwise just swap it in and drive it.
Scat has come out with a new LS1 crank and I'm told from my builderr that its an extremely nice peice. Same price as the Eagle, We're using it now. You wont have issue with Scat and Eagle but Callies is a little better so its your budget. Our Scat/Eagle combo uis 250 less than the Callies combo.
I would have it cleaned up .005 and line honed with ARP and then of course decked for proper quench to your pistons. All in all you save yourself about $400 in labor costs if you assemble it yourself, but I would not skip the above steps.
I guess in short, if your going to crack it open then why not just build it once and not take chances. Otherwise just swap it in and drive it.
06-15-2008, 11:09 AM
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If you going to take it apart then you might as well forge it, you'll be pretty unhappy if you break something it. Then you can turn up the boost without fear.
Scat has come out with a new LS1 crank and I'm told from my builderr that its an extremely nice peice. Same price as the Eagle, We're using it now. You wont have issue with Scat and Eagle but Callies is a little better so its your budget. Our Scat/Eagle combo uis 250 less than the Callies combo.
I would have it cleaned up .005 and line honed with ARP and then of course decked for proper quench to your pistons. All in all you save yourself about $400 in labor costs if you assemble it yourself, but I would not skip the above steps.
I guess in short, if your going to crack it open then why not just build it once and not take chances. Otherwise just swap it in and drive it.
Scat has come out with a new LS1 crank and I'm told from my builderr that its an extremely nice peice. Same price as the Eagle, We're using it now. You wont have issue with Scat and Eagle but Callies is a little better so its your budget. Our Scat/Eagle combo uis 250 less than the Callies combo.
I would have it cleaned up .005 and line honed with ARP and then of course decked for proper quench to your pistons. All in all you save yourself about $400 in labor costs if you assemble it yourself, but I would not skip the above steps.
I guess in short, if your going to crack it open then why not just build it once and not take chances. Otherwise just swap it in and drive it.
I definitely want a good "squish" effect.
06-15-2008, 01:12 PM
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I was just looking through their catalog. They definitely have the low compression stuff I need.
My only question is if their piston (I didn't see pictures of the dish they use) has a dish shaped like the "combustion chamber" rather than a full dish would that cause me problems with piston rock when using a 4" stroke and a 1.1" compression height on the piston.
My only question is if their piston (I didn't see pictures of the dish they use) has a dish shaped like the "combustion chamber" rather than a full dish would that cause me problems with piston rock when using a 4" stroke and a 1.1" compression height on the piston.
