Looking for comments on my new book... (cross-post)
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2002
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Once you use Posi-Lock your other pullers will spend the rest of their life on the shelf. Posi-Lock has a collar that holds the legs in place during installation of the puller. The most frustrating part of using a puller is that you need 4 or 5 hands to get the 3 legs, threaded rod and puller body all lined up. You don't have this problem with Posi-Lock because the collar holds the 3 legs in the proper position. All you do is hold the puller body with one hand(the collar holds the legs in place) and turn the threaded rod with the other hand. They're not cheap, but probably commenturate with SnapOn. As far as bucking the puller rod up against the crank snout I use a BIG allen head cap screw with some large flat washers (slightly smaller O.D. than the crank O.D). I put the washer on the cap screw and put the cap screw in the crank where the bolt came out. The threads of the crank aren't touched because the cap screw threads are slightly smaller than the crank bolt threads. The hex in the head of the cap screw forces the puller rod to be self-centering. The puller rod push against the flat washers which buck against the crank snout. I also use a plumbers chain wrench to hold the pulley during installation and removal. Plumbers use them on cast iron sewer pipe. You can find them in the plumbing dept. at Sears. They cost a lot less than the Posi-Lock.
Once you use Posi-Lock your other pullers will spend the rest of their life on the shelf. Posi-Lock has a collar that holds the legs in place during installation of the puller. The most frustrating part of using a puller is that you need 4 or 5 hands to get the 3 legs, threaded rod and puller body all lined up. You don't have this problem with Posi-Lock because the collar holds the 3 legs in the proper position. All you do is hold the puller body with one hand(the collar holds the legs in place) and turn the threaded rod with the other hand. They're not cheap, but probably commenturate with SnapOn. As far as bucking the puller rod up against the crank snout I use a BIG allen head cap screw with some large flat washers (slightly smaller O.D. than the crank O.D). I put the washer on the cap screw and put the cap screw in the crank where the bolt came out. The threads of the crank aren't touched because the cap screw threads are slightly smaller than the crank bolt threads. The hex in the head of the cap screw forces the puller rod to be self-centering. The puller rod push against the flat washers which buck against the crank snout. I also use a plumbers chain wrench to hold the pulley during installation and removal. Plumbers use them on cast iron sewer pipe. You can find them in the plumbing dept. at Sears. They cost a lot less than the Posi-Lock.
It's not when people are putting the pulley back on when they do the damage. It's usually when they're removing it. Over the years every possible way to screw up removing the crank pulley on an LS has been posted on this site. Murphy's law was obviously at work. From damaging the crank threads to getting the puller rod wedged into the crank bolt hole. I came up with the allen head cap screw idea because the puller rod tries to "walk" as you tighten it down. I tried drilling a dimple in the center of the old bolt head(it gets thrown away anyway), but that idea left room for improvement. That's when I went looking for my biggest allen head cap screw. Some of these stories are painful to read so you can imagine how the person posting the nightmare feels. Most of these problems could have been avoided had they only asked their question ahead of time instead of waiting until after they damaged their crank. Or they could just do a "search" through the mountain of information LS1Tech has become in nearly 10 years. By the way I ordered the book myself on amazon today.
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Verdad Gallardo Hey everyone,
Thanks so much for all the comments and interest in the book so far. Since it seems so many of you bought the book from amazon.com, I'd appreciate it if anyone who has 5 minutes could post a customer review on there, as there is only 1 so far.
Thanks again!
Thanks so much for all the comments and interest in the book so far. Since it seems so many of you bought the book from amazon.com, I'd appreciate it if anyone who has 5 minutes could post a customer review on there, as there is only 1 so far.
Thanks again!
just got done reading it in i thought it was well wrote book,with a lot of great info thats needed all in one place.which save's alot of time on searchin the forums and having to google for info.the only bad i can say on it is wish that more info on the use of aftermarket parts on the rebuild
just got done reading it in i thought it was well wrote book,with a lot of great info thats needed all in one place.which save's alot of time on searchin the forums and having to google for info.the only bad i can say on it is wish that more info on the use of aftermarket parts on the rebuild
Last edited by WernerGMHTP; Aug 10, 2008 at 11:18 PM.
Maybe you are looking at the newly revised version of Will Handzel's "How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s," which is due to be released October 15?
I know this thread is old, but I wanted to say that I'm happy to announce that my book has been listed in the 2009 GM Performance Parts catalog and can be had under GM Part Number 88958674.
Thanks to everyone for the comments!
Thanks to everyone for the comments!
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: China Grove, NC
I just picked up a new LQ9 6.0 iron block, new set of L92 heads, and a GMPP carbed intake w/injector bungs for a great price. The guy also threw in a compleat L92 out of a Caddy SUV. Don know what I am going to do with all this yet but you can bet a turbo will be invloved.
Jim
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
I just received my book today, plus I also ordered How to Tune and Modify Engine Management systems.
Since I come from the old school world of carburetors and distributors, I thought that I should get up to speed with both books.
I'll let you know what I think when I'm finished with the books.
Greg
Since I come from the old school world of carburetors and distributors, I thought that I should get up to speed with both books.
I'll let you know what I think when I'm finished with the books.
Greg
