Looking for comments on my new book... (cross-post)
07-07-2008, 11:08 AM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking for comments on my new book... (cross-post) ***NOTE: THIS IS ALSO POSTED IN THE "GENERATION III INTERNAL ENGINE" FORUM (https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/946649-looking-comments-my-new-book.html), BUT I'M PUTTING IT HERE TOO JUST IN CASE***
Fellow LS1Tech-ers:
I'd like to put a call out to all of you for comments on my new book, "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines." It's my first book and I really put a lot of effort into making it the best it could be, so I'm anxious to hear how everyone thinks it turned out.
For those of you who have it, I'd like to hear your feedback regarding anything and everything. For example, some areas I'd like to hear your thoughts on are:
-layout / ease of reading
-technical accuracy
-any typographical errors you may have noted
-whether anything is "missing" from the book that you would liked to have seen
-etc.
You'll also note that I mentioned ls1tech.com in the source guide and included it in the source guide of the book - which says a lot about how highly I regard the opinions of everyone on this site. Thank you in advance!
Fellow LS1Tech-ers:
I'd like to put a call out to all of you for comments on my new book, "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines." It's my first book and I really put a lot of effort into making it the best it could be, so I'm anxious to hear how everyone thinks it turned out.
For those of you who have it, I'd like to hear your feedback regarding anything and everything. For example, some areas I'd like to hear your thoughts on are:
-layout / ease of reading
-technical accuracy
-any typographical errors you may have noted
-whether anything is "missing" from the book that you would liked to have seen
-etc.
You'll also note that I mentioned ls1tech.com in the source guide and included it in the source guide of the book - which says a lot about how highly I regard the opinions of everyone on this site. Thank you in advance!
07-07-2008, 05:34 PM
#3
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had preordered the book and waited like 2 months for it to come out. but what i can say is it is an excellent book. The colored pictures was a huge surprise but a huge plus. Awesome book.
Will be sure to let you know my comments.. Trending Topics
07-08-2008, 09:10 AM
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry for the delay in the book being released - part of that was my fault, hence the orange correction sticker inside on the head bolt tightness. It takes time to put stickers in 5000 books!
07-18-2008, 06:48 AM
#12
8 Second Club
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great book. The layout is a "workbench book", which is way easier to follow than Will's book, when using it in the field.
One thing I did notice, in the tool section. I would have included an actual LS1 style balancer puller, Kent Moore or Snap On YA9740B. Makes life way easier. I have seen a few people break the tabs off the stock balancer and really mess up the threads on the crank, trying to use a standard 3 jaw puller as shown in the book. All the other tools were well thought out and good inclusions.
Thanks again Chris, great job!
One thing I did notice, in the tool section. I would have included an actual LS1 style balancer puller, Kent Moore or Snap On YA9740B. Makes life way easier. I have seen a few people break the tabs off the stock balancer and really mess up the threads on the crank, trying to use a standard 3 jaw puller as shown in the book. All the other tools were well thought out and good inclusions.
Thanks again Chris, great job!
Last edited by veee8; 07-18-2008 at 10:37 AM.
07-18-2008, 07:54 AM
#13
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think I will also order this from Amazon.
I vaguely remember another LS series engine book, I think from GM, that was good for people doing swaps into non-LS powered cars. Anybody know what I am talking about? I would like to order both books at once.
Thanks
I vaguely remember another LS series engine book, I think from GM, that was good for people doing swaps into non-LS powered cars. Anybody know what I am talking about? I would like to order both books at once.
Thanks
07-18-2008, 09:04 AM
#14
8 Second Club
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just an fyi. When I ordered from amazon, the seller claimed 1-2 day shipping coming from s.c warehouse ( I am in n.c.) and was in stock. It took like 10 days to receive it. Price was $20 shipped.
07-18-2008, 09:53 AM
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great book. The layout is a "workbench book", which is way easier to follow than Will's book, when using it in the field.
One thing I did notice, in the tool section. I would have included an actual LS1 style balancer puller, Kent Moore or Snap On YA9740B. Makes life way easier. I have seen a few people break the tabs off the stock balancer and realy mess up the threads on the crank, trying to use a standard 3 jaw puller as shown in the book. All the other tools were well thought out and good inclusions.
Thanks again Chris, great job!
One thing I did notice, in the tool section. I would have included an actual LS1 style balancer puller, Kent Moore or Snap On YA9740B. Makes life way easier. I have seen a few people break the tabs off the stock balancer and realy mess up the threads on the crank, trying to use a standard 3 jaw puller as shown in the book. All the other tools were well thought out and good inclusions.
Thanks again Chris, great job!
07-18-2008, 10:24 AM
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In addition to looking for comments on the book, I have also been wondering (for you, and everyone else) if anyone is actually planning on undertaking a full engine rebuild in the near future, and if so, whether this book might have inspired you to do it yourself instead of paying a shop to do it for you. Anyone?
07-18-2008, 10:36 AM
#18
8 Second Club
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I personally have the Snap-On puller. It is similar to a regular 3-jaw, but the jaws themselves are perfectly lined up, machined not cast, and sized to engage the pads cast into the stock balancer. Then the main pusher bolt is hollow and has different length pushrods that go into the crank bolt hole and bottoms out inside the crank. That way you are not pushing on the end of the snout and run the risk of damaging the threads in th crank. The puller can also be used on Mopar V-6's, 4.7L V8, 8.0L V10 etc. and Mitsu 2.0L dohc.... And all 4.8L,5.3L,5.7L,6.0L,8.1L GM's and Caddy 4.5L,4.6L,4.9L V8's and Olds 4.0L V8.
I was dyno operator at a place in Michigan for awhile, I watched a guy use a regular puller on an LS6, and snap 2 of the ears off. Right in front of the customer. I used my puller, and was barely able to catch the edge on the broken stubs and remove the balancer. Used it dozens of times since. Well worth the investment.
I was dyno operator at a place in Michigan for awhile, I watched a guy use a regular puller on an LS6, and snap 2 of the ears off. Right in front of the customer. I used my puller, and was barely able to catch the edge on the broken stubs and remove the balancer. Used it dozens of times since. Well worth the investment.
07-18-2008, 11:07 AM
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I personally have the Snap-On puller. It is similar to a regular 3-jaw, but the jaws themselves are perfectly lined up, machined not cast, and sized to engage the pads cast into the stock balancer. Then the main pusher bolt is hollow and has different length pushrods that go into the crank bolt hole and bottoms out inside the crank. That way you are not pushing on the end of the snout and run the risk of damaging the threads in th crank. The puller can also be used on Mopar V-6's, 4.7L V8, 8.0L V10 etc. and Mitsu 2.0L dohc.... And all 4.8L,5.3L,5.7L,6.0L,8.1L GM's and Caddy 4.5L,4.6L,4.9L V8's and Olds 4.0L V8.
I was dyno operator at a place in Michigan for awhile, I watched a guy use a regular puller on an LS6, and snap 2 of the ears off. Right in front of the customer. I used my puller, and was barely able to catch the edge on the broken stubs and remove the balancer. Used it dozens of times since. Well worth the investment.
I was dyno operator at a place in Michigan for awhile, I watched a guy use a regular puller on an LS6, and snap 2 of the ears off. Right in front of the customer. I used my puller, and was barely able to catch the edge on the broken stubs and remove the balancer. Used it dozens of times since. Well worth the investment.
07-18-2008, 01:03 PM
#20
Thanks! Hilarious sig photo BTW.
In addition to looking for comments on the book, I have also been wondering (for you, and everyone else) if anyone is actually planning on undertaking a full engine rebuild in the near future, and if so, whether this book might have inspired you to do it yourself instead of paying a shop to do it for you. Anyone?
In addition to looking for comments on the book, I have also been wondering (for you, and everyone else) if anyone is actually planning on undertaking a full engine rebuild in the near future, and if so, whether this book might have inspired you to do it yourself instead of paying a shop to do it for you. Anyone?
i was inspired when i got a quote for over 7k$ for just a longblock
there is a better way, its called a LQ4.
PS in the past 9 yrs. i still havent damaged any stock balancer using a 3 jaw puller, to date, maybe im up