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Engine swap, runs much hotter

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Old 07-10-2008, 09:09 AM
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Default Engine swap, runs much hotter

Just swapped in a L92 416 with D1 procharger into my 98 TA, the car always ran at 180* with the turbo and intercooler in place, now it is running at 230* granted it was a 95 degree day, but even on a hot day with AC I did not see over 200 before. I am going to look into a larger radiator to start, but did anyone else have this issue? Thanks
Old 07-10-2008, 11:20 AM
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I think a larger radiator will help alot.

did you get D1SC or D1???

Nice setup BTW.
Old 07-10-2008, 11:26 AM
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Might be a silly question, but did you bleed the cooling system properly? I don't see why the Fbody rad wouldn't be sufficient to cool the new motor.
Old 07-10-2008, 03:02 PM
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New motors always run hotter although I would say your case is excessive. I would try burping the cooolant system again. Many times you have to drive around with the cap off on the overflow tank for 30min or so to suficiently burp the system. I know of guys driving for days to burp theirs completely.
Old 07-10-2008, 03:16 PM
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If you fill the motor correctly with coolant no "burping" is needed. You fill it through the neck in the top of the waterpump then fill through radiator. Each side of the thermostat will then have water.
Old 07-16-2008, 10:56 PM
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No I use a vacuum pump and evacuate all the air from the system there is no "burping" needed. I was more wondering if anyone else had noticed similiar issues with more cubes. I see all the issues I have, more cubes, intercooler preheating air charge and partially restricting air flow, and a fresh motor. I just stopped driving it when it was hot, with temps in the 80's the car runs 180 to 200. I ordered a larger radiator and am rethinking the intercooler airflow. I am also going to try drilling a couple of holes in the T-stat to increase flow. Thanks all who answered though......
Old 07-17-2008, 12:39 AM
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That should do the trick, also make sure the elec fans are programmed properly to keep temps down
Old 07-27-2008, 08:50 PM
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A few things to check or try:
-Greater percentage of water in the cooling system and a bottle of water wetter.
-Air is lazy, if it doesn't have to pass through a heat exchanger it won't. Check your air guides and make sure you don't have anywhere for the air to escape.
-Move the radiator angle to allow the use of 2 fans, if you can't already run 2 now.
-Wire the fans together.
-Turn the fans on sooner to help battle the temp. before it becomes a problem.

Try the easiest things first and go from there.

Good Luck.
Old 08-21-2008, 09:10 PM
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The radiator did the trick on the cooling issue, and after break in the temp dropped even more. However when the AC was on the gauge still climbed like mad. I had other issues so I lived without the AC, well after 1500 miles I solved that riddle when the AC belt finished rubbing a hole through the aluminum AC line....LMAO. Just one of those small things you miss, it made no noise or anything, just the friction made a lot of heat that got dumped into the radiator when the AC went on. We ended up cutting the stock shroud in half and then mounting a smaller fan above the SC using those plastic push mounts and wired them in like stock. I added a pusher fan on the front of the condenser, but I have not needed it yet, it is not even wired. I will finish wiring it as I know that on a hot day in traffic with the AC on I will need it.....BTW Car is sweet!!!!




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