Haans249

iTrader: (24)

I'm about to take off the heads, and noticed that the top 5 head studs nuts are not seated all the way down the stud, there is about 3-4 threads I believe exposed. I checked the torque and they're right at 22-25lbs. I'm wondering if there is not the right head studs in this motor right now. All the rest of the nuts on the ARP head studs are completely seated on the studs... This is an LS2 2004+ block, and those are the studs that i purchased for this build....so is this really normal?

Thanks!
Adrian

lstvr

Looks like they are too long, and they have bottomed out, was it leaking?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

+1...seems like you should have noticed.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

It looks like the stud is short, and doesn't go all the way through the nut.

...or am I missing something here???

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, the picture helps. I guess if you get the proper torque on the stud nuts, then it should work for you. I don't know if that is normal though. It seems strange that only 5 of them do it.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

yes my heads were leaking, thats why im concerned that these studs are too short, although, they really don't provide any clamping force, so I dunno. The motor was put together for me from a sponsor here, so i just put the motor in, i didn't double check to make sure the heads were put on properly, i assumed they would have been.

Is this ok? Or is this really something that I should be concerned over, and do I need to order different studs for the top 5 on each head?

Someone who DEFINITELY knows, can you please chime in? These are GM LS7 heads btw, so i dunno if that portion where the nut goes is taller than a LS2 head..

The cometic gaskets were leaking in between each bore from what it looks like.

TIA.
Adrian

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Well if its leaking, you are going to have to pull off the head. While its off you'll have a chance to measure the stud lengths out of the block to see if they are all the same. Once you pull off the head and remove the gasket, you can put the head back in place and look to see if the head is seating evenly and flat. Doing those things should give you some insight as to what is causing the leak.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

I've already got the heads off, the heads seat flat, and all of those top studs are the same length.

There appeared to be spots of the gasket that did not seal, BUT, there is a main stud stuck in the deck, I mean, its so binded up that i've broken a bit trying to get it out... Is it possible that if it is in too tight, that it could crack the block? I'd really like to get this out and pressure test the hole, but I can't get it out! Any suggestions? Should I just leave it in and it'll be fine? This sucks

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

The only thing that comes to mind is drilling it and using a bolt extractor.

Krom

The stud goes into aluminum, which expands much faster with heat than the stud. Just heat the aluminum around the stud with a torch (propane, or MAP gas will be plenty) before you try to loosen the stud again.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Thanks, thats what I plan on doing...

New issue though, and this is VERY disheartening, but on the drivers side of the motor, the pistons are kissing the head at the top of the piston....

I'm thinking that when I take the heads to a machine shop to have them cleaned up, i'll have them mill out like 10 thou in the area where the pistons are touching the head, of course i'll have that done on both heads.

I'm guessing the decks of the block aren't the same height....mannn.... this is getting old fast.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

You need to find out why the pistons are kissing the head. Just milling an area might be a band aid to a bigger problem.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Well, since it is only on one side, it is most likely a deck height difference. If you can think of anything else it could be, please post up your ideas, but otherwise, I don't see how it would even be possible to be anything BUT the deck height, esp since its all only on one side. I guess its possible that the gaskets I were sent weren't both the same thickness, that could also be a possibility.

But just to be safe, i'll have them mill just a slight amount from the flat part the chamber, and put it back together, i'm sure it'll be fine.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I would just check all of you clearances before I bolted everything back up for good.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Oh, clearances will be checked for sure, whether it'll be the last time i unbutton this ******* thing is left to be seen.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Yeah thats normal, mine were too short also so I backed them out just enough to catch all the threads, the smaller ones up top aren't that important.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for your input Phil, I figured as much. That mustang you're building is out of this world.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Thanks, I don't want to take the heads off but my engine advisors seem to think we have 100+hp on the table just in compression.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

100+hp on only .1:1 compression? I suppose anything is possible. That would be awesome if it were to happen.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Is this a home build or something?
Not trying to dis anyone, just trying to find soome facts out about the build.

Those studs up top do not do anything really as stated but it is very interesting that they are to short. What kit did you use?