WHich engine oil for break in?
08-13-2008, 09:52 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Bay area, ca.
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You need to talk to your engine builder for that.
If you have already done that and are looking for other opinions do a search, there's a lot of threads on that.
If you have already done that and are looking for other opinions do a search, there's a lot of threads on that.
08-13-2008, 11:19 PM
#3
FormerVendor
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: "Sin City" Las Vegas
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shell Rotella-T 15/40 Organic Oil. It can be gotten pretty much anywhere for 11 bucks a gallon.. well, it is shell oil, so its probably gone to about 90 dollars a gallon now..
Why?? Cause its one of the few remaining oils without all of the detergent bullshit, that doesnt help protect the bearings.
I use it 100% of the time.
I use it for 2 full oil/filter changes. One after no more than 15 minutes or full operating temp, and one after 100 miles. After that, I switch to castrol for about 2500 miles. Then, I go synthetic..
Why?? Cause its one of the few remaining oils without all of the detergent bullshit, that doesnt help protect the bearings.
I use it 100% of the time.
I use it for 2 full oil/filter changes. One after no more than 15 minutes or full operating temp, and one after 100 miles. After that, I switch to castrol for about 2500 miles. Then, I go synthetic..
08-14-2008, 12:23 AM
#4
Shell Rotella-T 15/40 Organic Oil. It can be gotten pretty much anywhere for 11 bucks a gallon.. well, it is shell oil, so its probably gone to about 90 dollars a gallon now..
Why?? Cause its one of the few remaining oils without all of the detergent bullshit, that doesnt help protect the bearings.
I use it 100% of the time.
I use it for 2 full oil/filter changes. One after no more than 15 minutes or full operating temp, and one after 100 miles. After that, I switch to castrol for about 2500 miles. Then, I go synthetic..
Why?? Cause its one of the few remaining oils without all of the detergent bullshit, that doesnt help protect the bearings.
I use it 100% of the time.
I use it for 2 full oil/filter changes. One after no more than 15 minutes or full operating temp, and one after 100 miles. After that, I switch to castrol for about 2500 miles. Then, I go synthetic..
Thanks for the USEFUL info. When I used to fly, we used mineral oil in new engines. I never really asked the mechanics why, but the engines always ran good later.
I guess I just never really thought about anything but synthetic after buying a few new LSX engines that come with Mobile-1 Syn. Then again, I guess the hyper-Eutectic pistons had tighter wall clearances.
So far my engine has used about a quart of oil in 800 miles, but it has no lack of power. Just trying to stop any problems before they begin.
08-14-2008, 12:31 AM
#5
Look back at old file>>>>>>
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=oil+break
Very interesting to read..I think about using Shell 30WT with Camp cam #154 for first inital 200 miles on my newer LS2 carbed.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=oil+break
Very interesting to read..I think about using Shell 30WT with Camp cam #154 for first inital 200 miles on my newer LS2 carbed.
08-14-2008, 01:03 AM
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Bay area, ca.
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the USEFUL info. When I used to fly, we used mineral oil in new engines. I never really asked the mechanics why, but the engines always ran good later.
I guess I just never really thought about anything but synthetic after buying a few new LSX engines that come with Mobile-1 Syn. Then again, I guess the hyper-Eutectic pistons had tighter wall clearances.
So far my engine has used about a quart of oil in 800 miles, but it has no lack of power. Just trying to stop any problems before they begin.
Who buys an engine and doesn't ask the builder what breakin procedure they recommend?
in 800 miles your rings have seated all they're gonna.
Are you using synthetic to break in the motor?
08-14-2008, 04:55 AM
#7
FormerVendor
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: "Sin City" Las Vegas
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ever since the EPA forced the oil companies to reformulate their oil a few years ago for cat efficiency, their is significantly less ZDDP in the oil. ZDDP is what helps keep your bearings nice and slick while your breaking in your rings. Diesels are not regulated like gasoline engines, so you can still buy it.
After a few hundred miles, you've had sufficient break in to switch to a low ZDDP oil. (Which is basically every other street oil out there.)
DO NOT...I repeat.. DO NOT run synthetic oil in your car for the first few thousand miles. If you do, you will be drinking oil for good. Synthetic doesnt allow your rings to seat.
GM uses a special rings that seats right away, so they can get away with it. But the ne hardened rings we use in aftermarket motors, dont have that same luxury...
HTH,
Jeff
Thanks for the USEFUL info. When I used to fly, we used mineral oil in new engines. I never really asked the mechanics why, but the engines always ran good later.
I guess I just never really thought about anything but synthetic after buying a few new LSX engines that come with Mobile-1 Syn. Then again, I guess the hyper-Eutectic pistons had tighter wall clearances.
So far my engine has used about a quart of oil in 800 miles, but it has no lack of power. Just trying to stop any problems before they begin.
After a few hundred miles, you've had sufficient break in to switch to a low ZDDP oil. (Which is basically every other street oil out there.)
DO NOT...I repeat.. DO NOT run synthetic oil in your car for the first few thousand miles. If you do, you will be drinking oil for good. Synthetic doesnt allow your rings to seat.
GM uses a special rings that seats right away, so they can get away with it. But the ne hardened rings we use in aftermarket motors, dont have that same luxury...
HTH,
Jeff
Thanks for the USEFUL info. When I used to fly, we used mineral oil in new engines. I never really asked the mechanics why, but the engines always ran good later.
I guess I just never really thought about anything but synthetic after buying a few new LSX engines that come with Mobile-1 Syn. Then again, I guess the hyper-Eutectic pistons had tighter wall clearances.
So far my engine has used about a quart of oil in 800 miles, but it has no lack of power. Just trying to stop any problems before they begin.
Trending Topics
08-14-2008, 06:02 AM
#8
Shell Rotella-T 15/40 Organic Oil. It can be gotten pretty much anywhere for 11 bucks a gallon.. well, it is shell oil, so its probably gone to about 90 dollars a gallon now..
Why?? Cause its one of the few remaining oils without all of the detergent bullshit, that doesnt help protect the bearings.
I use it 100% of the time.
I use it for 2 full oil/filter changes. One after no more than 15 minutes or full operating temp, and one after 100 miles. After that, I switch to castrol for about 2500 miles. Then, I go synthetic..
Why?? Cause its one of the few remaining oils without all of the detergent bullshit, that doesnt help protect the bearings.
I use it 100% of the time.
I use it for 2 full oil/filter changes. One after no more than 15 minutes or full operating temp, and one after 100 miles. After that, I switch to castrol for about 2500 miles. Then, I go synthetic..
My 403 burns or uses no oil whatsoever!
08-14-2008, 08:27 AM
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 709
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i am running the valvoline nfs oil with the zddp, and will always run it in this engine, i change the oil on a very regular basis, maybe the max is every 1500 miles. On break in i even added a zddp additive that i have for older flat tappet cam vehicles i change oil on.
08-14-2008, 02:26 PM
#12
10 Second Club
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: St. Michael, MN.
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pretty much the same for me; 2 oil changes with Rotella and switch to synthetic after that. After assembly, I had left over GM Engine Oil Supplement, so I added that to the oil for the first change.
08-14-2008, 02:29 PM
#13
If you run the Rotella, you'll want to add in a bottle of the GM EOS. Rotella does not have the high levels of ZDDP that it used to, and the EOS is a great way to supplement that. We also like the Valvoline Racing oil and Joe Gibbs's as well!
__________________
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
08-14-2008, 04:27 PM
#14
What about Comp Cam#154 come with Shell Rotella-T ? I plan buy Shell Rotella T at Walmart.
I never see Valonline NFS around the auto parts store. O'Riley's???
What about roller valves? Ok to use it???
I never see Valonline NFS around the auto parts store. O'Riley's???
What about roller valves? Ok to use it???
Last edited by Jeff Smith; 08-14-2008 at 04:29 PM. Reason: add
08-14-2008, 05:16 PM
#15
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=50
Be sure it is their RACING oil as shown above. Around here you can get it at Advance Auto Parts in several weights. If you grab the part number off their site for whichever weight you want, you can also order it online from several places at good prices.
Be sure it is their RACING oil as shown above. Around here you can get it at Advance Auto Parts in several weights. If you grab the part number off their site for whichever weight you want, you can also order it online from several places at good prices.
__________________
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
