Complete 7.0 Liter (427 cubic inch) MTI Super-Stroker Includes: Resleeved LS2 Block. 4340 Forged Callies Steel Crank, Billet Steel Compstar Connecting Rods, Forged Aluminum Wiseco Ceramic Coated Pistons.
MTI Stage III Ported & Polished Racing LS1 Cylinder Heads includes- Ferrea Stainless Steel 2.080” intake & 1.60” exhaust valves, custom double valve springs, titanium retainers, custom spring locators & extensive port & polished work.
MTI custom computer tuning, includes complete recalibration of vehicle computer such as engine Rev Limiter, idle speed 8 timing / air fuel maps.
Comp Cams OEM lifters, MTI underdrive pully package, F.A.S.T. 90/90, Complete gasket set utilizing custom head gaskets and MTI hardened push rods, Spec stage III clutch with billet steel flywheel, NGK spark plugs & MSD plug wires & MSD coil packs, New GM water pump, and ford 30lb fuel injectors. That’s just a list of what I had MTI out of Houston Tx. Do for me. They shipped the motor to me, me and my father installed it. The motor runs great and performs beyond what I could imagine, I’ve had the motor for just over two years now and just recently turned 2200 miles on it. Yes that it I was still n school and didn’t get much time to get the car out. The reason for the post is I’m having trouble with the motor burning oil. I talked to Jason at MTI awhile ago & was told that some guys reported their motor not seeding up(breaking in) till 1500 to 2000 miles. I’m at that point & still using a lot of oil.
My question is should I be alarmed by this & is there anything I can do to fix this or make it better?? Another thing is when i start the car to let it warm up it spits out this black sut/dirt every time all the time.?? Any info & thoughts are welcome.

 

What type of oil was used during the break in?

 

Catrol 10W40 thats what MTI recommended. i have sence changed to Mobil 1 synthetic.

 

I just bought a 427 stroker and was told not to change oil to synthetic until after 5k miles on the motor. I have read on here that people do it as early as 2500 miles though. How quickly did you change ocer to mobile 1?

 

i had around 1200. u having any issues with yours?

 

Have you spoken to MTI since you turned the 2000 miles?
How much oil are you burning?

 

scraching my head about MTI I've heard they dont deal with f bods anymore not that that applies but at the same time there number no longer works and web site is down. but no i havent i've tried with no prevail. a quart of oil for every 100 miles or so i would say. enough to worry me. i always check it and always make sure its not low

 

Burning excessive oil during the break in period is perfectly normal. I suspect the picture showing the splatter out the exhaust is possibly more likely carbon soot and condensate from lack of activity.

Is the car smoking at idle or just losing oil when you check it?

I would recommend running Delo or Rotella oil for the next few changes until the rings seat completely.

It may be just abnormally rich causing the high carbon concentration out the exhaust.

This is just my opinion, but I think a good local WB tune with some additional miles and you might be all good. That stroker is probably gonna burn some oil when you drive aggressively, but that's not a big deal really. When you start fouling plugs, then you might be concerned. I'd also change the plugs after the next few oil changes since the first set are exposed to any oil leak by prior to the rings seating.

Good luck!

 

Not smoking at idle, It does run rich very rich,TXCAMSS what do you mean WB tune? Thanks for the info very helpful

 

Like stated above......get that synthetic out of there and put some Rotella 15/40W in for awhile. Honestly I would have never even put the synthetic in for a couple thousand miles or more. Too many horror stories and just isn't worth it! On the same note my 427 I had in my car last year burned oil like crazy till about 2500 miles and then just quit so you still should be able to get it to stop. Traver

 

WB tune = wideband tune. Most shops tune very conservatively for good reason. You are not likely to hurt an engine going a bit rich, but go lean and things can go south quick.

I left a shop once (before I knew any better) and my AFR was 11.2:1 at idle and cruise. She was some kind of rich. Go to the Delo/Rotella oil and get a good wideband tune. I bet you'll be good for a long long time. There's more power there than you've had the opportunity to feel.

I love that car man!

 

Thanks. im lovin it as well just want to get it running 100%.

 

TXCAMSS any shop be able todo a wideban tune? is there a certain way to do this kind of tune? im lost i know that car needs tuned just not sure what you mean? I have contacted EPP(exotic performance plus) about getting a tune just havent done it yet?

 

sounds to me like the motor wasnt properly built (ie. not torque plated, wrong ring caps, etc etc), or the car is rich and washing down the rings with fuel, honestly i would guess its the latter. if you have been driving your car for that long with the rings being washed down, its unlikely you will save the rings in my opinion.

 

fuel wash was what popped in my head also. i had an engine a few years ago that was horribly rich and thats what happened, had to take it back down, new rings and hone job.

 

I have had no problems at all. Mine might be in parts that I took a 1200 mile trip the weekend after it got tuned. I haven't burnt a drop of oil. I will probably be changing to synthetic in the next 1k miles or so. But, not any sooner.

 

i know the car runs rich i have a ses light on and its throwing coeds for certain banks. i just cant remember witch one or ones. Will tuning the car help this problem or make things worse? I know a tune will make things better just dont want to do something that will make things worse

 

I've seen quite a few cars that ran rich and washed the rings. Once that happens, you need to pop the motor apart and replace the rings or deal with the terrible blowby.

 

My buddy was worried about this an was wondering how you can tell if you have washed the rings???

 

Best way is to do a leakdown test. If you can hear air rushing out the oil cap or oil dipstick, chances are your rings are bad.