Bad News
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From: Fort Worth, TX
LOL, been there done that plenty of times, if you keep going to the same place they eventually learn...usually...haha
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Alright guys, started looking over everything before diving in and tighting back up the studs, when I noticed what Steve said would happen....coolant seeping between the block and heads.
I need to know if coolant has already passed between the heads and block, does that mean the gaskets are toast? I need to know ASAP so I can get some new ones ordered.
Also, I called up Cometic with the information that Steve provided about the different coolant holes between the LS1/LS2 and the LS1 MID sleeve gaskets, talked to a tech guy there, and this was his exact words.
"There are NO other coolant passage holes offered for the LS series motors except the LS7. The ONLY difference between the LS1/LS2 and the LS1 MID sleeve gaskets is the embossing, there is no difference in the location of the coolant holes."
I personally will have to go with Steve on this one, but the tech guy was very assertive about there being absolutely no difference in the location of the gasket holes. Either way, if I have to order new gaskets, i'll get the MID's this time.
So, are the gaskets toast? Or will a re-torquing hopefully seal them back up?
Thanks!
Adrian
I need to know if coolant has already passed between the heads and block, does that mean the gaskets are toast? I need to know ASAP so I can get some new ones ordered.
Also, I called up Cometic with the information that Steve provided about the different coolant holes between the LS1/LS2 and the LS1 MID sleeve gaskets, talked to a tech guy there, and this was his exact words.
"There are NO other coolant passage holes offered for the LS series motors except the LS7. The ONLY difference between the LS1/LS2 and the LS1 MID sleeve gaskets is the embossing, there is no difference in the location of the coolant holes."
I personally will have to go with Steve on this one, but the tech guy was very assertive about there being absolutely no difference in the location of the gasket holes. Either way, if I have to order new gaskets, i'll get the MID's this time.
So, are the gaskets toast? Or will a re-torquing hopefully seal them back up?
Thanks!
Adrian
No need to hit the panic button here man just re-torque them, keep your eyes on the coolant and oil for the next 1000 miles or so and if all the milky'ness goes away then your good to go.
Even though Cometics are reuseable, I wouldn't risk it. I would buy a new set, make sure to copper spray both sides of the gasket and torque to spec. Make sure the head and block surface are absolutely clean to ensure good sealing.
I dont see what he has to lose by re-torquing them and giving it a shot. Just because new gaskets "might" fix the problem he could have or create other issues by tearing it apart again. Each time they come apart and go back together there is risk or damaging threads and or screwing up further. If indeed a re-torque doesn't fix the issue then tear it down and try the copper spray ( works great in my minimal experience I love that stuff )
hopefully my cometic gaskets seal... i used spray on both sides.. only thing I did goof up on was the end bolts accidentally went 90 instead of 50 so i had to go back a tad and made sure they where still past the torque spec at least
i dont think I can do anymore loosening/torquing on mine anymore due to them being stock bolts
i dont think I can do anymore loosening/torquing on mine anymore due to them being stock bolts
Last edited by Gun5; Sep 16, 2008 at 11:28 PM.
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i'm sure you'll be fine.
I went ahead and retorqued, and its looking to be ok. The studs had backed off slightly after i swapped the gaskets, but like i said, so far looks good.
I went ahead and retorqued, and its looking to be ok. The studs had backed off slightly after i swapped the gaskets, but like i said, so far looks good.
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Verdad Gallardo sweet haha.. i turned mine over today and 0 oil pressure.. but from what im reading thats what these motors do until you fire them up and if it doesnt get pressure right away just kill it
Just as a follow-up. I spoke to Cometic and while my heads are 25 Ra, not sure on the block yet (car is not apart). I was told that I could put a light coat on prior to installation and that it wouldn't hurt anything. I plan to use Hylomar rather than Copper spray. Torque is 80 lb-ft per ARP with their lube, supposedly changes last January as the result of new laboratory tests. I also plan to re-torque after two heat cycles as every one I know that has re-tightened has found the original installation torque to be down once the engine has been heated a couple of times.
Thread Starter
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Just as a follow-up. I spoke to Cometic and while my heads are 25 Ra, not sure on the block yet (car is not apart). I was told that I could put a light coat on prior to installation and that it wouldn't hurt anything. I plan to use Hylomar rather than Copper spray. Torque is 80 lb-ft per ARP with their lube, supposedly changes last January as the result of new laboratory tests. I also plan to re-torque after two heat cycles as every one I know that has re-tightened has found the original installation torque to be down once the engine has been heated a couple of times.
