I still havent installed the studs, but when I do tomorrow, Ill also install the valve covers and accessories. on the pulley...

What oil should I run for break in? I know this has been asked a million times, but I was researching and people have mixed feelings on the Rotella T, since the formula has changed.

So I have a couple of questions:


Im gonna pour in the oil tomorrow(or should I pour in right before I start it), because the engine isnt even on the K member yet...

But either way, I have about .1 - .2 qts of oil in now, how much oil should I use? stock oil pan on 402 stroker...

Im thinking I should have in 5 qts poured in start the engine the pour in the other 1 qt. making a total of 6.1 qts... Im thinking about blending in Rotella T(10w40 I think) and the VR1 20w50..

1) are these 2 a good mix? and how much oil to use total?

2) are different oil weights going to give me a problem?

3) basically what steps should I take for break in? type and amount of oil, go WOT in higher gears to load the engine, etc? of course after the car is fully warmed up.. Im confused what to do the first time I take it to drive, right after I start it and let it warm up..

besides I plan on changing the oil after the first 20 or so miles, then installing more of the same blend for another 100mils, then after that 500 miles. after that 1000 miles...

is this a good plan?

tell me what I need to know, thanks..

I think Ill have my engine on the K member, mid week, next week and running by next thursday(9-18-08)

 

I used Rotella 10w30 for a little over 3,000 miles. The newer formula still has more zinc compared to a conventional dino oil. I also added GM EOS as well. There are wildly varying procedures for actual engine break in technique, but priming the engine before the initial start is absolutely critical.

 

do you guys, do what I do and disconnect the coils, vs unplugging injectors?

how long do you crank teh engine? 3 - 5 sec??

 

Absolutely a waste of time (sorry to be so blunt DrkPhx!). There is no reason to "prime" the motor before starting it. The Starter, or hand turning over the motor will not create enough rpms to pull the oil through the whole system, and will actually just cause excess wear then if you were to just start it.

Once you start it, it will be between 5-7 seconds before you'll see the oil pressure build. The recommendation that DrkPhx made as far as oil is a good one, I would also add the GM EOS or Red STP additive for some extra anti-wear additives, and better ring sealing.

Run the first oil change for Start-up ONLY, let the motor get to full temp. Drop the oil and filter, then refill, and put in new filter. Run for 500 miles, make sure to put some load on the motor ,and make sure you're not running too rich or lean (tune/get tune asap). DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT A TUNE, you will ruin it.
Change oil after those 500 miles, refill, new filter, and run for 1000 miles. Drop oil, check metal content (make sure its atleast less than before). Refill, new filter again, check coolant level to ensure gaskets are sealing properly, and run for 2,000 miles. At this point you shouldn't be seeing any metal. Finally, fill with your prefered oil/filter. I would recommend 6 qurts VR1 20w50, with a pint of Red STP additive and a KN 2006 (i like the higher capacity filter, and it does not extend past the headers) oil filter. I've run RP, mobile 1, and other oils, and so far, I've liked the racing oils (20w50) weights MUCH better as they hold up to the higher oil temps we'll see with these higher hp motors. You can try the XPR oil, but VR1 works well, and is 1/4 the cost.

 

I will prime the motor for a good 3 seconds, Its not enough to damage anything...

sorry, but Im not a total newb to building engines.

Also, Warm up the motor and then change the oil? sounds wrong to me, without any load the rings arent gonna expand that much , I will drive for a good 20 miles with variable load and change oil and filter, that to me sounds more reasonable..

and I dont have a tune for my car, how can I have a tune for it when its a specific bild, I have my old head cam tune and thats good enough to break it in, then Ill get a tune, once I feel my rings have seater properly..

I wanna hear more input on this from other people, thanks

 

You can get oil pressure on the gauge by spinning the engine with the starter. If the pump is assembled correctly during the build, it will pump quick enough to get it in 2-3 short cycles. You may not get oil to all of the valve train but you can at least get oil to the main/rod bearings. I've also been able to get oil into the main galley on a 3.8 V6 by just spinning the engine over by hand. It takes more effort but I at least knew the pump was primed.

This is definitely a step I don't skip with any engine I build.

 

LSGun,

The breakin procedure I described is IMHO the best procedure.

First off, there is no difference between turning over the engine before starting it, than just starting it. You're still turning it over regardless, except you keep the oil pressure you built by turning it over and starting it right away, make sense? Its pointless to turn over the motor with the starter, get out, plug everything back in, and then turn it over again to start it.

Warming up the motor, and then changing the oil is not wrong by a long shot. You will have lots of metal after the first run, and its best to get that out before you drive the car around. Running the motor without any "load" to warm up will not damage the rings, nor keep them from seating, thats just silly. Besides you want to make sure everything is in order (no fuel leaks, no header leaks, no abnormal noises once warm etc...) before you want to take it out and start loading it up. If something is not right, you'll catch it before you roll the car down the street.

As far as the tune, I didn't mean a perfect specific tune that you just start up and run forever. i was more referring to a starting point tune, such as ensuring that your injector flow rates are adjusted for new injectors, and that VE tables are set to reasonable levels. Running a stock tune will/could damage your motor, running too rich causing the rings not to seat and glazing the cylinder walls etc...
Also, don't wait to get the tune, get it tuned right away, because who knows what AFR's you'll be running once you "feel the rings have seated properly..." if you don't have a wideband hooked up, seriously. For all you know you could be running pig rich and wam, time for a rebuild. The rings will seal on the dyno, guaranteed.

Lastly, you have to disconnect the injectors (coils as well if you dont' want spark running either) if you plan on priming the motor, otherwise you'll have unburnt fuel in the cylinders after you turn it over 3-5 seconds, flooding it, not a good idea.

Sorry if you don't want to hear my advice, but I feel I should share,

Best,
Adrian

 

In our race engines we would run straight 30w Penzoil for break in. I know that sounds weird but it has worked for us for years now. Once broken in do as they say drain everything look for metal and fill with your standard weight oil to make sure the rings have seated. once you know your rings have seated, check compression or do a leakdown then it's ok to switch to sythetic. We always ran Torco synthetic but at $10 buck a quart it's kinda pricey.
We have also found that Amsoil works good for a short time and then breaks down (dyno showed that). Royal purple is also a great option as well.
The main thing is to make sure that your rings are broken in before switching over to synthetic.

 

No actually, the part where I could catch a mistake, when I let it warm up, then changing the oil sounds like a good idea. so I will do that..

also it makes sense to disconnect the injectors as well, duh I wasnt thinking because I didnt realize the fuel will still be there..

thanks

 

I know that, but I want a recommendation of what oil to use for the first few fills. EXPECIALLY the first one I will be filling in a few days when my engine is comeplete!

 

im wrapping up my 365 install. when i had the motor closed up with no spark plugs, i had the fuel pump unplugged from the hotwire install, and no accessory belt on, i filled the filter with oil and crankcase. i then did 3 short 3 mississipi starter blasts. during the third i hit 40 psi on the guage. im now into the final plumbing for my procharger.

once im set there my tuner is kind enough to stop by for a start up tune so i can drive to the dyno to let it eat!!!

i plan on....... warm it up to check all fluids and clutch.
change oil and filter
drive a few miles (8) to the dyno
dyno tune it
drive home
change oil and filter
have fun for 500 miles
change oil and filter
run it for 2000 miles
change oil and filter to my favorite synthetic

you will build oil pressure with just the starter. it builds its pretty fast with no accessories spinning or plugs.
my engine builder said it wasnt nessessary to prime it i did more for a middle of the build check. i does take a little worry away though when that needle shoots up!!!!

 

that varies with every engine builder. the one thing that seems common is no synthetic.
my builder said plain jane castrol 10 w 30 so thats what im using. spdc recomends rotatilla. and everyone else a different brand also. personly since the oil is in for so little time in the beginning of the motors life you could get by with any conventional oil. just add some gm eos for some mental reassurance(i got a 16 0z bottle to go in after my warm up change).

good luck, have fun and post your results!

 

anyone else?

 

could you elaborate on the amsoil wearing down?

 

VR1 20/50 or Kendall 20/50.

Start it up. Oil Pressure? Yes? Take it to the dyno. No Oil pressure? Turn it off and pull the pan.

change the oil.

done.

 

+1 I'd like to know how you know the oil is breaking down without an oil analysis. and how the dyno could show you oil is breaking down....

 

With our dyno tests with several oils. Like I have said before, Amsoil started out great but after a few heat cycles it starts to break down and the HP levels were dropping. I'm not doggin on Amsoil, just letting you guys know what we found on the dyno.
I found out at last years SEMA show, I met Jody Davis one of the owners of Torco. He had told me quite a bit about thier product.
I'm going to have a LS something built next year, and I'm not sure which oil I will be using. If I can get a good deal thru Jody, I'll run Torco again. I've never had a problem with their product in my dragster, so hopefully he will help me out.
Either way, go with what you know. I don't get paid from any of these guys, I'm just sharing what I have done in years past.

Hope this answers your questions

 

I just primed my newly built LS2 today. It took 3 cycles of about 5 seconds each to finally see the pressure come up. 50 PSI cranking only. I put the Joe Gibbs breakin oil in the motor. I have heard and read alot of great things about this oil.