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Just watch the fuse for the 10g off the alternator. Mine started getting hot and melting the plug, so I upgraded the hot path to the pump between two of the bulkhead pins, made sure the hat/pump was adequately grounded and eventually tossed the hotwire in the trash and I have a leash dual relay board on the frame rail with a 4awg (wayyy overkill) powering it from the alternator, then 10g off that to the pump.
I have not dealt with Racetronix since my C4 days years ago. I never had any issue with their stuff, but youre now the second person to tell me to keep an eye on it...
I mounted the relay to the ground location on the frame back there in the wheel well. I cleaned all the paint off before bolting the grounds back on so hopefully its all good. Do you have pics of your setup?
Originally Posted by low2001gmc
What LSA advance if any 🤷?
Yes +5 as mentioned. I will edit the post to include it!
Not a whole lot accomplished this weekend, but productive none the less. Keeping the updates going on here though.
I'm using an ARE aftermarket LS7 oil pan and it requires a remote oil filter. I decided to put it away from heat and still pretty accessible in the driver side fender. I had to extend the wiring for the temp sensor, and just got a longer AN hose for my pressure sensor which was already relocated.
Then I worked on porting the LS7 pump for about 3 hours. Just cleaned up some sharp edges and transitions. Worked mostly on the scavenge side to keep oil out of the pan as much as possible.
I finally cut the tub out for the C6 exhaust, and cleaned the firewall for some DEI reflect a gold heat shield.
Busy weekend. Picked up the block Friday after work. The machine shop didn't do quite as much as I hoped, which made for an exhausting Saturday. The machine work itself looks great, but whatever wash they did didn't get as much of the old paint and gunk off as I hoped. I had to spend half the day scraping paint off some important surfaces and chasing threads to clean it up before I could begin assembly.
After block prep, I got the rings filed and fit, and crank bearing clearance measures and the crank installed. I did have to massage the thrust bearing for a little more clearance too which takes time. I think I had the crank in and out about 6 times throughout the day. I have both x bearings and std on hand, but ended up using all x on the mains. Clearance was between 0.0024"-0.0028" which is perfect for the 50wt racing oil I plan to use. The couple rods I was able to get to are right around 0.0021" with the std bearings.
Hopefully tomorrow I should have time to finish doing rod clearances and assemble the shortblock. Then on to cam degreeing, measuring PTV and pushrod length.
Also thanks to Scott for taking time on a holiday weekend to check my sanity, lol.
Here are some progress pictures. And yes, before anyone compliments me on my perfectly sterile 100% optimal conditions in the garage for building an engine, it's ok. I know.
Sounds like it will be a great build! That is a BIG cam too hahaha. The gas ported top rings are a nice touch. What does your Vette weigh with fuel and no driver? What size tires all around?
Sounds like it will be a great build! That is a BIG cam too hahaha. The gas ported top rings are a nice touch. What does your Vette weigh with fuel and no driver? What size tires all around?
It definitely is a decent size cam! The hope is to build a more top end engine that peaks around 7200-7300rpm and can carry out to 7800 or so to eliminate some shifting in between corners. The GP rings were very nice out of the box!! I didnt have to file them much either to get to my target. The top rings were all pretty tight but still didnt need a whole lot.
With about 1/4 tank and no driver the car is 3040lb. Just a hair over 3300 with driver (dont do the math on that, hahaha). Sitting right around 51.5%/48.5% front to back. I could pull more weight off the nose if I removed the AC, but I like the fact this car has a full interior, radio, and functional AC and can still set some track records.
Uhgg.... What a frustrating night. With Sunday being easter I spent time with family, and Monday I had a prior commitment so yesterday was my first time back in the garage.
I completed measuring bearing clearance last night. Since its cold now in Ohio again, I had to go back and double check the rods I had completed over the weekend to see how much "shrinkage" was in effect and if it will change my clearance measurements. Since all the metal parts and my tools were in the garage together it actually didnt change much with weather, so thats encouraging.
Got the bearings done and moved on to assembling rings onto pistons, pistons on to the rods. The clips for the wrist pins came in packages of 2. 8 separate packages. I got 4 pistons in the block, torqued bolts and good to go. Working on #5 and I notice 3 clips sitting on the bench. CRAP!! Which one did I miss!? I start taking the other 4 out one by one and come to find out I didnt miss anything, but that package I just opened actually had 3 clips in it! Super frustrating but better safe than sorry. I decided to call it a night since it was already late and I didnt want to overlook anything trying to rush. Most of the slow tedious things are over and I just need to assemble the shortblock, measure PTV and pushrod length to finish assembly and order pushrods. While Im waiting on pushrods I plan mask off clean and paint the block.
Got all the pistons back in and measured for Pushrod length. I don't have any spares around here the right length so I'll need to check PTV when I have them.
Looking good Mike. How did cam degreeing turn out? How much cam thrust or endplay do you have? I’ve been battling a cam thrust issue on a current build, that’s using a cam sprocket with a Torrington bearing attached to it. It was fun. I’ve installed many of these and never had a thrust clearance issue til this build. Anyhoo, just wondering how yours turned out.
Looking good Mike. How did cam degreeing turn out? How much cam thrust or endplay do you have? I’ve been battling a cam thrust issue on a current build, that’s using a cam sprocket with a Torrington bearing attached to it. It was fun. I’ve installed many of these and never had a thrust clearance issue til this build. Anyhoo, just wondering how yours turned out.
Im probably doing things slightly out of order based on lead time for parts, so final cam thrust measurement I havent done yet. It does feel on the tighter side with the torrington bearing though. I also forgot to put cam bolts and thrust plate bolts on my list, so Im reusing some for now to get initial measurements. It has to come apart again anyway.
I should have pushrods today so I can do degreeing and clay as well. All of my spare pushrods are Gen III 7.4" standard and this measured out to a range of 7.857-7.868 for pushrod length all around with the taller LS7 style valves. I wanted to make sure I have something closer before doing those.
Busy weekend doing a lot of little things that just sucked time.
Got the block painted while waiting for pushrods to come. All cylinders measured between 7.856-7.868 for length. I went with 7.9" pushrods all around landing between 0.032-0.044" preload on a lifter with 0.093" travel. Right at the spec Johnson recommends. Double checked PTV with the new pushrods and we have lots of clearance, even with the "big" cam. Intake - 0.256", Exhaust - 0.184".
As mentioned before, the cam felt a bit tight in the block using the torrington bearing style gear. Thrust measurement was only 0.0015". Scott suggested massaging the bearing on some 1000 grit paper and WD40. I didnt grab a picture but we got it to be right at 0.003" which feels better.
Assembled the rest of the long block with lifters, pushrods, rockers and valve covers. Installed front accessories and sensors (cam, crank, knock, etc), ARE dry sump oil pan, pinned the crank and torqued the bolt down. Forgot a final pic with all the accessories but took one mid way through.
Tonight I will take it off the stand, install flywheel, clutch, and bell housing before placing it in the car finally!
Using the LS1/6 knock sensors on the LS3, I had originally drilled and tapped the stock location for 10mm thread, but this put the sensor right into the primary of the header. I moved it up to a boss that previously was just used for a wire harness loom I believe. The ground will go one above it.
Not sure how well the knock sensors will work for you in those locations. I see mixed results all the time. Looks like the engine mount bracket for the driver side fits fine? Did you grind the passenger side mount bracket to clear the block?
Not sure how well the knock sensors will work for you in those locations. I see mixed results all the time. Looks like the engine mount bracket for the driver side fits fine? Did you grind the passenger side mount bracket to clear the block?
If you have ideas where else to put the sensors, Im all ears. Not many places...
I am using C6 corvette mounts. They have more clearance and no modifications needed. They are also about 1-2lb lighter. Yes, Im keeping AC but using C6 mounts and C7 starter to save a few lbs. It makes sense in my head, trust me! lol
Its at home in its final (hopefully) resting place now.
Time to start wiring it back up and connect the rest of the drivetrain, radiator, steering rack, etc. I also have to run all new AN hose for the oil lines and make a new fuel line to the Summit intake rails. But there is light at the end of the tunnel.
If you have ideas where else to put the sensors, Im all ears. Not many places...
I am using C6 corvette mounts. They have more clearance and no modifications needed. They are also about 1-2lb lighter. Yes, Im keeping AC but using C6 mounts and C7 starter to save a few lbs. It makes sense in my head, trust me! lol
Personally.. I ditched my knock sensors (Even with the new motor being 14.5:1 and on E85 all the time) along time ago, but even more so since the holley install.
I milled clearance into the passenger bracket on mine, but I had to use a c6 mount bracket on the driver side to clear the SE 2" long tubes.
C7 starter is in, grounds and wires behind the headers are attached, headers on, torque tube back on (no trans or rear suspension yet), valley cover and steam tubes installed. Hopefully finish the rear portion of the drivetrain tonight and get the steering rack back in.
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