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Old May 5, 2018 | 09:06 PM
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Default New guy here looking to build an L33

Hey guys,

Im looking to build a Nissan 240 with an L33. The last 240sx had an SR20 in it, although the power wasn't bad could always be more. In my opinion wasn't the most reliable either. Therefore this time I'm looking to build something with more power, and also quicker on tap. The two options are either an LS1 or L33. Im looking to build something in the 500rwhp range, preferably closer to 550, but reliable.

I know most will say to read the treads, and well I have. For the last two weeks plus I've search a large amount on the LS family to make sure it was the best path, everything from LS1, L33, LQ4, LQ9, LM7, LM4, L59, LS2, LS3, LS6. Everytime I search for information it brings me to this site, so figured hell I just post here get roasted and get some info.

Everything I read tends to steer towards LS1 but they're becoming more pricey and from Im reading close to, or at, the 500rwhp mark some serious work needs to start being done in order to handle (at least NA it seems). With the only real plus being that it would fit under the hood without issue.

As for the L33 there seems to be a decent number of them available ranging from $650 (w/200+miles) or $1,400 (w/100+miles), so more wallet friendly. Not to mention when I search what kind of power can be made every search ends me here with people talking about turbo'd L33 with crazy high HP numbers.

So now where the help is needed... First which base option is the most suitable LS1 or L33? Honestly Im leaning towards the L33 where there are more motors around, so it seems, and can handle being boosted.

If I do go L33 what would I need for mods like cams, heads, headers (out of a truck perhaps?), springs etc. I see a lot of threads saying to keep the heads, and say the heads are the same as the LS6. Are the heads on all of the L33s the same, or is there certain years with those heads I should look for?
Any recommendations for turbos, I see a lot of people opt for the T76. Im looking to drift the car so I need something that can put the power down Im looking for without being maxed out. I also don't need too big of a turbo capable of 800+ when it just wouldn't work for what I want. Also something that spoils up early and can maintain the power band would be nice.
What would be good intake, injector, and fuel pump options. I know Holly sniper intake manifold are nice, but also $500+. Like anything else people push the products you don't always need that cost the most. So instead of wasting time and money when I don't have to figured I ask you guys who can build these things in your sleep. So valve springs/pushrods/rockers options would be nice as well.
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Old May 6, 2018 | 09:39 PM
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As luck would have it I have a fresh rebuilt L33 for sale that is built with boost in mind if interested.

I think the smaller frame T76 will give you a nice powerband with the necessary spool time but others may have better recommendations. An LS6 intake with some 120 lbs injectors should do the trick assuming you are going with E85 unless I missed it.

Last edited by 2muchboostNY; May 7, 2018 at 05:53 PM.
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Old May 7, 2018 | 12:37 AM
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No i will be running 93, its the local octane here. Any idea where I can go to find out more info on the L33s? like if the heads are the same as an LS6, and what needs to be or should be changed/added to meet those levels. For instance what have you done to yours in order to set it up for boost and relatively high numbers?
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Old May 7, 2018 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Boston8002
Hey guys,

Im looking to build a Nissan 240 with an L33. The last 240sx had an SR20 in it, although the power wasn't bad could always be more. In my opinion wasn't the most reliable either. Therefore this time I'm looking to build something with more power, and also quicker on tap. The two options are either an LS1 or L33. Im looking to build something in the 500rwhp range, preferably closer to 550, but reliable.

I know most will say to read the treads, and well I have. For the last two weeks plus I've search a large amount on the LS family to make sure it was the best path, everything from LS1, L33, LQ4, LQ9, LM7, LM4, L59, LS2, LS3, LS6. Everytime I search for information it brings me to this site, so figured hell I just post here get roasted and get some info.

Everything I read tends to steer towards LS1 but they're becoming more pricey and from Im reading close to, or at, the 500rwhp mark some serious work needs to start being done in order to handle (at least NA it seems). With the only real plus being that it would fit under the hood without issue.

As for the L33 there seems to be a decent number of them available ranging from $650 (w/200+miles) or $1,400 (w/100+miles), so more wallet friendly. Not to mention when I search what kind of power can be made every search ends me here with people talking about turbo'd L33 with crazy high HP numbers.

So now where the help is needed... First which base option is the most suitable LS1 or L33? Honestly Im leaning towards the L33 where there are more motors around, so it seems, and can handle being boosted.

If I do go L33 what would I need for mods like cams, heads, headers (out of a truck perhaps?), springs etc. I see a lot of threads saying to keep the heads, and say the heads are the same as the LS6. Are the heads on all of the L33s the same, or is there certain years with those heads I should look for?
Any recommendations for turbos, I see a lot of people opt for the T76. Im looking to drift the car so I need something that can put the power down Im looking for without being maxed out. I also don't need too big of a turbo capable of 800+ when it just wouldn't work for what I want. Also something that spoils up early and can maintain the power band would be nice.
What would be good intake, injector, and fuel pump options. I know Holly sniper intake manifold are nice, but also $500+. Like anything else people push the products you don't always need that cost the most. So instead of wasting time and money when I don't have to figured I ask you guys who can build these things in your sleep. So valve springs/pushrods/rockers options would be nice as well.
500 wheel out of a turbo L33 is almost done by accident.
Stock Long block. LS1 intake manifold to fit under your hood (don't spend a dime extra on an aftermarket intake), SMALL cam like an Isky Triple 12, and an efficient turbo like the a Borg S369SXE would spool very quickly, make 500whp, yet be capable of another 200 should you feel the urge. That's all. No aftermarket heads or intake, and you could still manage 700whp.

Fuel pump will depend on internal/external. Walbro 450 for internal, AEM 400 for external.
Fuel injectors should be in the 60-80 lb range for headroom. Stock decapped L33 injectors are ~75 lbs. Otherwise, the go-to for 60-80 lb injectors are Siemens Deka injectors. Don't get them from Ebay, knockoffs are getting to be way too common.
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Old May 7, 2018 | 10:07 AM
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Thank you for the info! Are the heads LS6 or what size are they? Should I swap them out or keep them, and if so change springs? Ive read a few posts about people going to LS7s (I believe it was) in order to better handle the boost.
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Old May 7, 2018 | 10:12 AM
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Swapping heads out on a boosted LS engine should only ever be done to change compression ratio. Even the worst flowing of all of the stock heads has been over 1000 HP.
But yes, the L33 basically has LS6 heads.

Change the springs. Spring choice will depend on cam choice. Blue LS6 springs are $60-70 new. If you plan on sticking with a stock or very small cam, they will work.
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Old May 8, 2018 | 02:42 PM
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Joe knows his stuff and can provided better info then I can. Most of the LS crowed here builds there setup for other than Drifting. I know most drifting guys like to be at or near the rev limit for a majority of their runs so thats something to consider when buying a cam and springs. The L33 heads are pretty much LS6 heads and can flow enough for your goals most likely. The build specs in the one I bought can be found in the FS thread. Unless you are going for big power while drifting, which I do not think you will need in our S-chassis, I would likely spend the money on valvetrain components since the L33 bottom end is rather stout from the factory. They have Gen 4 rods which can handle some abuse in stock form.

Last edited by 2muchboostNY; May 8, 2018 at 09:49 PM.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 11:20 PM
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What would you recommend for cams and springs? I know most here don't tend to build something for the drifting application, but seems that people here know LS engines pretty damn well. I do appreciate the help guys, should be buying an L33 in the next week or two still pricing around. So to make sure Im tracking correctly

L33 motor

stock heads (basically LS6 heads)

cams- Isky Triple 12, what else is equivalent? If I'm looking to drift what cams can provide enough for 500-550whp and high revs?

Blue LS6 springs? LS7 springs? something to handle the boost, yet also the revs.

LS1 intake manifold

Walbro 450 fuel pump


One thing I have been running into is the accessories. I see kits that have everything for $1,300, but that seems a bit high. What would you recommend for accessories and from what vehicle? Have heard LS2 water pumps can handle keeping temps down. Like everyone looking to get to the goal as cost effective as possible because caging the car will be somewhat pricey haha.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 07:25 AM
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Stock cam is enough for 550whp. At that point you're just using a cam to shape the power curve.

I would probably go for Howard's springs. Part # 98113. $120 shipped from Summit.

I dunno what accessories fit a 240. I use stock truck accessories in every swap I've done. You can probably get a used set of F-body accessories for $300-350, those might fit better.
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Old May 12, 2018 | 12:23 AM
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What about push rods? When boosting shouldn't that be something I should upgrade as well?
Also, not an LS question, but where can I find a CD009 trans. I see them post on ebay but can't tell if they're really CD009s or not, and not sure where else one can be found.

Appreciate all the help.
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Old May 12, 2018 | 06:36 PM
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Pushrods will depend on cam and valve springs. Its the valve spring force that typically forces them to bend. Don't use super overkill springs, and you can use stock pushrods.
If the base circle on the cam changes, you may need longer pushrods.
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Old May 12, 2018 | 08:52 PM
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Good luck on the build! Hope to see pictures of it here when you are finished.
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