subs in gxp
02-12-2009, 12:59 PM
#2
By stock deck you mean the stock head unit? That's the way I have mine. I mounted an amp beside the stock one under the rear deck lid. Got power from the fuse box under the hood, ran it through the grommet in the floorboard under the dash, then back on the passenger side to the trunk. Got my ground from the rear strut tower mounting bolt. I got my switched on/off from the interior fuse block on the passenger side... I think from the power sunroof slot.
For my audio signal, I had to get a 'stripped wire to RCA' converter/regulator from Best Buy (there's a more technical name for it, but I don't remember it right now)... you have to get the adjustable/regulated kind because I was taking the audio signal from the rear deck speackers which had already been amped from the stock system. If you don't regulate it you'll be sending an amped signal to your new amp.
I don't recall which wire colors I used from the rear deck speakers... but if you need me to look just let me know.
Mark
For my audio signal, I had to get a 'stripped wire to RCA' converter/regulator from Best Buy (there's a more technical name for it, but I don't remember it right now)... you have to get the adjustable/regulated kind because I was taking the audio signal from the rear deck speackers which had already been amped from the stock system. If you don't regulate it you'll be sending an amped signal to your new amp.
I don't recall which wire colors I used from the rear deck speakers... but if you need me to look just let me know.
Mark
02-12-2009, 03:02 PM
#4
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09-08-2011, 03:44 PM
#8
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Why wouldn't you just tap in the harness on the in side of the amp? This is the one i have http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SGN1...item51985c5554 i jut got some t-taps and tapped in to the in side of the amp in the back.
09-09-2011, 12:08 AM
#9
Gxp monsoon am wiring diagram
FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Amp Present Signal 1 GY/BK
Radio On Signal 3 VT
Left Rear + Input 4 BN/WT
Left Rear - Input 5 BN
Left Front - Input 6 D.GN
Left Front + Input 7 TN
Amplifier Control 8 TN
Right Rear Spkr + 9 D.BU
Right Rear Spkr - 10 L.BU
Left Rear Spkr + 11 BN
Left Rear Spkr - 12 YW
Subwoofer Spkrs - 13 L.GN/BK*
Subwoofer Spkrs + 14 D.BU/WT*
Right Rear - Input 16 BK
Right Rear + Input 17 D.BU
Right Front + Input 18 L.GN/WT
Right Front - Input 19 L.GN
L/F Door Tweeter + 21 BK
L/F Door Tweeter - 22 YW
R/F Door Tweeter + 23 L.GN
R/F Door Tweeter - 24 VT
Center Speaker - 25 L.BU
Center Speaker + 26 YW
Chassis Ground 27 BK/WT
Constant 12 Volt 28 OG
R/F Door Spkr + 29 L.GN
R/F Door Spkr - 30 D.GN
L/F Door Spkr - 31 GY
L/F Door Spkr + 32 TN
*The rear deck speakers are a dual voice coil design with one coil on each speaker powered by a mono subwoofer out from the amplifier.
FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Amp Present Signal 1 GY/BK
Radio On Signal 3 VT
Left Rear + Input 4 BN/WT
Left Rear - Input 5 BN
Left Front - Input 6 D.GN
Left Front + Input 7 TN
Amplifier Control 8 TN
Right Rear Spkr + 9 D.BU
Right Rear Spkr - 10 L.BU
Left Rear Spkr + 11 BN
Left Rear Spkr - 12 YW
Subwoofer Spkrs - 13 L.GN/BK*
Subwoofer Spkrs + 14 D.BU/WT*
Right Rear - Input 16 BK
Right Rear + Input 17 D.BU
Right Front + Input 18 L.GN/WT
Right Front - Input 19 L.GN
L/F Door Tweeter + 21 BK
L/F Door Tweeter - 22 YW
R/F Door Tweeter + 23 L.GN
R/F Door Tweeter - 24 VT
Center Speaker - 25 L.BU
Center Speaker + 26 YW
Chassis Ground 27 BK/WT
Constant 12 Volt 28 OG
R/F Door Spkr + 29 L.GN
R/F Door Spkr - 30 D.GN
L/F Door Spkr - 31 GY
L/F Door Spkr + 32 TN
*The rear deck speakers are a dual voice coil design with one coil on each speaker powered by a mono subwoofer out from the amplifier.
09-16-2011, 12:09 PM
#10
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By stock deck you mean the stock head unit? That's the way I have mine. I mounted an amp beside the stock one under the rear deck lid. Got power from the fuse box under the hood, ran it through the grommet in the floorboard under the dash, then back on the passenger side to the trunk. Got my ground from the rear strut tower mounting bolt. I got my switched on/off from the interior fuse block on the passenger side... I think from the power sunroof slot.
For my audio signal, I had to get a 'stripped wire to RCA' converter/regulator from Best Buy (there's a more technical name for it, but I don't remember it right now)... you have to get the adjustable/regulated kind because I was taking the audio signal from the rear deck speackers which had already been amped from the stock system. If you don't regulate it you'll be sending an amped signal to your new amp.
I don't recall which wire colors I used from the rear deck speakers... but if you need me to look just let me know.
Mark
For my audio signal, I had to get a 'stripped wire to RCA' converter/regulator from Best Buy (there's a more technical name for it, but I don't remember it right now)... you have to get the adjustable/regulated kind because I was taking the audio signal from the rear deck speackers which had already been amped from the stock system. If you don't regulate it you'll be sending an amped signal to your new amp.
I don't recall which wire colors I used from the rear deck speakers... but if you need me to look just let me know.
Mark
09-16-2011, 01:30 PM
#12
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[QUOTE=1Fast7;15397510]Pull the fuse cover off and at the top there is a group of three orange wires you will use the thicker of the three. I already have a t- tap on it.
[/QUOTE
Thank you kindly good sir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[/QUOTEThank you kindly good sir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
09-17-2011, 10:10 AM
#13
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Just buy a cheap aftermarket head unit, amp, and install kit and call it a day. You will be more satisfied with the results. I am a car audio nut and if you look at my sig it reflects that. What kind of subs do you have?
09-17-2011, 12:18 PM
#15
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+1 on the cleansweep, it's the bee's knees if you don't wanna drop coin on an aftermarket. It can get expensive quick, I spent $320 on my new install and the head unit was only $170 
as far as subs, before I got my HU i had tapped into the signal switch wire on the factory amp, and did line level off the left deck speaker, soldering the connections. However I was only able to get away without an LOC because my amp (PPI) has a -12 dB cutoff switch specifically for doing line levels, and I still had to tune the amp in using a multimeter.
as far as subs, before I got my HU i had tapped into the signal switch wire on the factory amp, and did line level off the left deck speaker, soldering the connections. However I was only able to get away without an LOC because my amp (PPI) has a -12 dB cutoff switch specifically for doing line levels, and I still had to tune the amp in using a multimeter. 
09-19-2011, 12:07 PM
#19
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I'm running a solo 12" Polk Momo- Sounds pretty good with the LOC- Didn't want to loose the factory nav or id ditch the stocker! .
09-19-2011, 09:49 PM
#20
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You didnt tap the sunroof wire then, I just pulled the fuse and shoved the wire in there, put the fuse back in and it works great 
tapped the wires for the sub right at the LR speaker connector, didnt tap right off the amp and it sounds great im happy with it, I have a 12" Kenwood performance series in a ported box with an audiobahn a4002t powering it
tapped the wires for the sub right at the LR speaker connector, didnt tap right off the amp and it sounds great im happy with it, I have a 12" Kenwood performance series in a ported box with an audiobahn a4002t powering it