Sittingmongoose

iTrader: (1)

I may be doing this on thursday lightweight internals and a bore

Mgpeagle

iTrader: (6)

Damn, SM.... It will be one bad a$$ car that's for sure...

-Mike

Aplusdetailshop

iTrader: (1)

An LS 5.3 stroker crank only has to be machined on both ends... 10mm on the snout and 3mm on flywheel end. Not a hard thing to have done at the right machine shop. No special crank making needed.... go buy a 5.3 stroker kit (383) with a 58 tooth ring gear and have the crank ends machined.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

interesting.

Aplusdetailshop

iTrader: (1)

Whats so interesting?? I've done alot of research on this and I know from talking with different engine builders and machine shops that it can be done. Nothing special about it. Just a lil thinking outside the box. The only differences from this LS4 from any other 5.3 is that our block has the FWD trans bolt pattern, our 5.3 block is all aluminum, specifically designed water pump housing, single surpentine belt drive, intake turned around backward and our crank shortened up 13mm's thats the only differences. Otherwise totally identicall internally and externally. Anything is possible when you think outside the box.....

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

chill dude I said interesting because I thought it was interesting......geesh. I like how your telling me the differences as if I didn't already know. Go kick the dog around if your mad at something.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Don't forget the "missing" starter.

Aplusdetailshop

iTrader: (1)

I'm not mad maybe you should chill you're the one taking it the wrong way. If you knew the differences then why would it be so interesting?? Things that make ya go Hmmm.. It's a forum with people full of their opinions and knowledge. Some more opinionated then knowledgeable. I do performance work and have an engine shop that I deal with all the time only down the road and he's a GM guy. I was just stating the differences for all those that may not know them, no need to take it personally. I read stuff on here all the time that someone thinks is correct and I get taken back by some of it, where as others are correct. I was chiming in on something I know a bit about.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

it was interesting because I wasn't sure if the material was in a place where it can be removed, that's all. I've personally owned, modded and tuned several LS vehicles so relax.

Aplusdetailshop

iTrader: (1)

You have to keep adding in relax or chill. I'm the one thats perfectly fine here. I've done tuning with Ford, GM, and Subaru. Alls I was saying is that if anyone (I don't want you to feel compelled to type relax or chill yet again cause you're taking it personal) thinks ouside the box which people have on this forum then alot more can be accomplished. Look at the guys that figured out that the trailblazer TBS works on the Ls4, or how about the GTP FWI that works on the Ls4, or the guys that are putting the Ls1/Ls6 intakes on these things. Thats all I'm saying. No need to take it personal but think about what you typed earlier in this thread "just for the record a 4" crank would make a 359 cube. Also, you could probably stroke the LS4 and have clearance but the crank is different than all the other Gen 3/4 engines so a custom one would have to be ground, unless you guys can get someone to make you one."
This is why I typed the info. You obviously wasn't aware that the only difference was that the crank is shorter. I'm not going to go back and forth with you. But I will say this, Tuning and modding is only one side of things. If you never built an engine for yourself or customers then you wouldn't have the knowledge in that department. I've built more then enough Ford, GM and Subaru engines to know what I'm talking about. Again you shouldn't take it personal. I'm the 1st one to acknowledge when someone show's me how to do something different or gives me info that make things easier or more factual. The crank in the Ls4 is nothing special just a lil bit of material taken off to accomodate the tight fitment into the FWD chassis. This is exactly why I don't chime in on forums. Everyone has an opinion but few have the knowledge. Forums are great for advice when given the proper advice.

Aplusdetailshop

iTrader: (1)

lmao...

higsy

Hope this works out for someone, sounds great. I for one am learning alot about these motors. Forums are great learning tools, I wouldn't have attempted an intake swap etc. if not for people answering questions I had!!

AlabamaGuy

iTrader: (5)

LOL

Just give it up JDM. lmao

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

dude, in telling me not to assume anything about anyone you are doing just that to me. First of all a 4" stroke crank in a 5.3 block will give you 359 cubes DO THE MATH. Second, I've modded and tuned 3 different gxp's. A friend of mine has already done the LS6 intake swap months ago, soon to be cam and headers and I'll be there for it all. I've been in the LS scene since day one, so don't tell me to "think outside the box". Do a search and you'll find that I've always tried to give good advice so that people don't waste their money on doing mods in the wrong order. Lets just end this conversation and move on please.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

He's right. We have the M6/Metric 6 FWD bolt pattern. Just like the 3800.

Aplusdetailshop

iTrader: (1)

Once again it's like I pissed in your cheerios. Stop taking it personal that someone knows a lil more then you. I really don't care about your "DO THE MATH" if anyone is going to put a stroker crank in without doing rods or pistons then they're retarded and so are you. In order to put a different stroked crank in any enginge you need to do rods and pistons and clearance the bottom of the sleeves. So what about rod ratio?? wow it's not even worth my time. So what you're saying is doing bolt ons ( headers, cam, heads, intake, and tuning) gives you the right to spew off bad info that a specially made crank needs to be had to do a stroker.. Seriously get your panties outta the twist that they're in and RELAX.... You're taking it all personal before this post but whatever...

nmp0098

Have you double checked that you can go 0.120" over on an aluminum block? I know that you can bore the iron-block LM7 way out to almost 3.9" and maybe a bit beyond (which makes it a GREAT budget hot rod engine), but I never heard of anyone doing that to the aluminum LM4/L33/LS4. I only remember that because when I read that I did a double take, because to go even 0.060" over on a 350 you really should sonic check the block, or you need to be working with something really old like an FE or W engine that has thick bores. I believe the maximum safe over bore for the iron-sleeved aluminum LS series blocks is 0.030", and I'm having trouble believing that the LS4 recieved an extra thick sleeve. I'm not saying it can't be done, I just think you're going to have to bore the sleeves out and resleeve the block.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

Nate, just in case you're wondering not too many people overbore the aluminum blocks. I'm not sure on the exact number but if it's anything like the ls1 you don't get much at all on an overbore. The early ls1's only get about .010" and the later ones get about .030". Now you could machine out the sleeves and install bigger ones, but think about how much you'll gain for the money you'll be shelling out. Just my opinion. BTW, you might want to ask sittingmongoose he's probably done the research.

Brian396

iTrader: (3)

That’s what I was thinking but I’ve never done any research on it. Not something I was planning on doing.

Sittingmongoose

iTrader: (1)

i am boring out to 6.1 liters and rigging up direct injection