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Dyno Results LS6 intake etc

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Old 01-20-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by vroom_vroom
why would it be pointless to run it up to 130 if you race the car its not a hard goal to hit
They did ten (10) runs. Hitting the rev. limiter in second takes less time than in third.

Dyno time = money.
Old 01-20-2011, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
They did ten (10) runs. Hitting the rev. limiter in second takes less time than in third.

Dyno time = money.
It was dyno'd in second for "safety", not to save time. Some dyno operators don't like spinning the drums that fast.
Old 01-20-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by AlabamaGuy
It was dyno'd in second for "safety", not to save time. Some dyno operators don't like spinning the drums that fast.
That's good to know. I learn something new every day.

So why didn't they correct it then?
Old 01-20-2011, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
That's good to know. I learn something new every day.

So why didn't they correct it then?
Maybe the shop was trying to wow their customer with awesome numbers, or more than likely they were just ignorant on the platform.
Old 01-20-2011, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by indynotch50
Is there an LS6 swap "how to" somewhere. I'd like to see what you mean by this VLOM tray.
Now that I have my truck back up and running and it will be spring soon, it will be time to turn my focus back to my car and i was planning a setup very similar to this but keeping DoD is kind of necessary.
Here's the VLOM tray from nmp0098's build (stock at the bottom):



From nmp0098:

9) The two VLOMs side by side. The official stock replacement part is thinner than what came on the car, and after I ordered it I checked and it is the same part number as the G8s and DOD trucks. Bolted in with no issues (107 in-lbs).
So, with the G8 tray being thinner, will the intake ribs still need to be ground down underneath?

Successful LS6 Intake Manifold Swap, DOD Retained
Old 01-20-2011, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AlabamaGuy
Maybe the shop was trying to wow their customer with awesome numbers, or more than likely they were just ignorant on the platform.
That's unfortunate because it's the accurate numbers that we're all looking for.
Old 01-20-2011, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
That's unfortunate because it's the accurate numbers that we're all looking for.

Which you don't get on a dyno lol. Trap speeds tell all.
Old 01-20-2011, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CenTexSS
Which you don't get on a dyno lol. Trap speeds tell all.
I've trapped speeds with a good 4 mph range in one night...That's a BIG difference.
Old 01-20-2011, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
Here's the VLOM tray from nmp0098's build (stock at the bottom):



From nmp0098:



So, with the G8 tray being thinner, will the intake ribs still need to be ground down underneath?

Successful LS6 Intake Manifold Swap, DOD Retained
Delphi trays are thinner and Eatons are thicker.
Old 01-20-2011, 09:11 PM
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Somebody wanna give me that spare connector?
Old 01-20-2011, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidGXP
Delphi trays are thinner and Eatons are thicker.
Mine is an eaton. Didn't have any issues.
Old 01-20-2011, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AlabamaGuy
Mine is an eaton. Didn't have any issues.
Meaning you didn't have to trim anything?
Old 01-20-2011, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
Meaning you didn't have to trim anything?
Ground down some fins on the intake and cut/welded the OPSU tower.
Old 01-20-2011, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AlabamaGuy
Mine is an eaton. Didn't have any issues.
I'm using an Eaton too. Had to grind down the fins and knock a few tabs off of the tray. I test fitted everything without gaskets though.
Old 01-20-2011, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidGXP
Delphi trays are thinner and Eatons are thicker.
That's good to know the difference.

Originally Posted by AlabamaGuy
Ground down some fins on the intake and cut/welded the OPSU tower.
Ah so either way the intake will need to be modified due to the MAP sensor and whatever that other thing on the left is, lol:



Pics of your modified OPSU?
Old 01-20-2011, 10:22 PM
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Yeah, the MAP can be moved to the front (EGR location) or drilled for mounting on the back. That monstrosity is filled in with a freeze plug.
Old 01-20-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by AlabamaGuy
Yeah, the MAP can be moved to the front (EGR location) or drilled for mounting on the back. That monstrosity is filled in with a freeze plug.
What if the intake doesn't have the EGR hole up front?

EDIT: Lol I hate to derail this guy's thread.

Last edited by GXP25; 01-20-2011 at 10:32 PM. Reason: Added some more info.
Old 01-20-2011, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GXP25
What if the intake doesn't have the EGR hole up front?

EDIT: Lol I hate to derail this guy's thread.
Drill a hole in the back of the intake and Silicone it in there.
Old 01-21-2011, 07:20 AM
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cut the rear vacuum nipple off with a hacksaw and use a screw driver to pry the tabs which hold the dam thining in, out. Then clean the hole out and scuff the surface. Use some epoxy and install a 1 31/32 freeze plug into the hole. The map sensor will install in the rear. Just drill a. 441" hole on the flat side of the rear manafoild. Mount the map with a small screw sealed with PST gel. You can get a map extension harness from verious companies online.
The best bet is to mount it up front on Brian's adapter. Doesn't really matter though, since both locations will work.
Old 01-21-2011, 09:40 AM
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Can we get a sticky for the LS6 swap info?
I've been on this forum for almost a year and see this come up occasionally, and quite honestly, though I've read this stuff I'll have to look at it again when I actually go to do it.

Back on track! lol.


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