CAI intake research
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I have seen some debate online about different intakes for our cars so I decided to do some research. I'm sure its been proven that the stock airbox setup is restricting so we will start with my current setup. Stock airbox removed and spectre filter in place. Stock tubing and MAF. Starting off I took some temp readings. Outside temp and underhood temp were all done with the same thermometer. Crossover pipe is already heat wrapped.
Outside temp. 71 deg
Underhood temp on tubing close to throttle body 195
Temp at filter 112
Temp in fenderwell where proposed filter will be 96.
I am getting together the tubing required to run the CAI. Once completed I will take temps again wrap intake with heat wrap and take readings again.
More to come
Outside temp. 71 deg
Underhood temp on tubing close to throttle body 195
Temp at filter 112
Temp in fenderwell where proposed filter will be 96.
I am getting together the tubing required to run the CAI. Once completed I will take temps again wrap intake with heat wrap and take readings again.
More to come
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I am a big fan of research! Your best bet would be to do some IAT readings with the factory sensor. The stock box keeps things pretty cool. Its just restrictive due to the small *** opening. The filter is pretty free flow due to its size.
I had a cone filter on the end of my MAF and my IAT's were always about 20* hotter then ambient air while driving around. IAT temps would really start to climb when coming to a stop or after letting the car sit parked for awhile. Sometimes my IAT's would soar to
115* on a 42* day after sitting for about 10 mins.
I have the cold air inductions box. I used my cowl weather stripping to seal up the top, side and bottom. I have also wrapped my Intake ducting form the box to my TB with some refelctive laced shielding. My IAT readings are more stable now. The only problem is that a lot of heat comes from the throttle body and since the maf is close to the tb the sensor gets heated up pretty quick when the engine is turned off. The heat from inside of the engine escapes from the tb and out thru the air filter. Heat also comes out of the valve cover clean side breather.
I had a cone filter on the end of my MAF and my IAT's were always about 20* hotter then ambient air while driving around. IAT temps would really start to climb when coming to a stop or after letting the car sit parked for awhile. Sometimes my IAT's would soar to
115* on a 42* day after sitting for about 10 mins.
I have the cold air inductions box. I used my cowl weather stripping to seal up the top, side and bottom. I have also wrapped my Intake ducting form the box to my TB with some refelctive laced shielding. My IAT readings are more stable now. The only problem is that a lot of heat comes from the throttle body and since the maf is close to the tb the sensor gets heated up pretty quick when the engine is turned off. The heat from inside of the engine escapes from the tb and out thru the air filter. Heat also comes out of the valve cover clean side breather.
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I have this awesome velcro that I use for mounting my lap timer to my bike tail during races I figure if it can handle 160+mph it can handle driving around in the gxp.
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I was talking about internal engine heat exiting the the TB and traveling thru the intake tubing and out through the air filter. When this happens the IAT sensor gets hot. The TB doesn't really get all that hot. Its aluminum so it dissipates the heat rather quickly
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I would like to adapt a faster reading IAT sensor into our MAF. The stocker reads temps very slow as mentioned above.
The ECM starts to pull timing at 95* right?
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I think it is around that temp for the timing to be pulled. I only use my HSRK from spring to early winter. Once it gets 30 degress or below I plug back in the stock one. The HSRK is only going to give us about 2* additional timing anyway. I notice I go through a little more gas with it plugged in. Mine is located in the GXP driverside lower fenderwell.
I went with these: Note, our cars have the larger plug for the MAF like the G8's do.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1137
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=964
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1174
The parts were less expensive when I did mine. (Almost 1.5 years ago...) it is still cheaper than the Vector Motorsports one for 100.00.
-Mike
I went with these: Note, our cars have the larger plug for the MAF like the G8's do.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1137
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=964
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1174
The parts were less expensive when I did mine. (Almost 1.5 years ago...) it is still cheaper than the Vector Motorsports one for 100.00.
-Mike
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well here is the mock up for the CAI tubing. only 2 bends and an extra 24" if piping, but a 100 deg (estimated) difference between the tb and the filter and around 20 degrees difference between the old filter location and the new. if i heat wrap the tubing it "should" keep temps nice and cool all the way into the tb. i know that i have seen a million people saying that the extra lenth in tubing robs power but so does the huge amount of heat being drawn in from under the hood. the location of the filter will not be about 5 - 6 inches above the bottom of the bumper. also right behind the brake cooling intake hole in the front bumper.
excuse my crude microsoft paint skills
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excuse my crude microsoft paint skills
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2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com