So i had my WP go out, or at least think i have. Anyway im gonna replace it this weekend. So does anyone have a PDF f a GM manual on replacement? Also anything to watch out for when doing this? Any help is appreciated.

 

Drain the cooling system.
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the water pump bolts (318).
Remove the water pump (300) and gasket (314). Discard the gasket.
Clean and inspect the water pump gasket mating surfaces.

 

That would be awesome, i was under the impression the whole crossover piece had to come out.

 

Sounds like the hardest part will be the battery.

 

This is a huge relief. Gonna grab a pump tonight and do it after work tomorrow.

 

Should be similar to north star water pump jobs which is an easy 20 minutes hardest thing like Brian said is battery but I'm working on a rear battery swap as I type this should be done soon

 

The real pain in the *** that makes it take way too long is the belt tensioner.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-perfo...tine-belt.html

Please research this before you start your project. I had to do this in the rain last spring in a parking lot. It is a PITA.

 

I knew there was some issue with the tensioner, but did not know what it was. Which is what i was hoping this thread would reveal. Thanks for the heads up.

 

You can slip the belt off and on the power steering pully pretty easily with a long screw driver. It will save you $100.

 

Well i just finished this up, took about 2.5 hours at a slow pace. Notes for others who may see this;

It sounds like a lot of unneeded work but taking the wheel off to get to the tensioner is the easiest way and I used a medium sized pry bar to get the belt off and on.

Removing both front and back parts of the fuse box was the only way i got the battery out which is a must

I also removed the battery tray. Its only 4 10mm bolts so do it right away and smile later when you realize how difficult it would be to remove the lower pump bolts with it in.

A magnetic 10mm socket will be your Savior, though i didnt have one. The 6 times i dropped the lower bolts trying to put them in made me realize what i was missing.

Using a 1/4 drive, short 10mm socket, with a universal joint will make putting the lower bolts in easier

When putting the belt back on, its easier to get it over the idler pulley near the radiator the trying to pry it around the crank or AC pulley


I think thats about it...well see tomorrow after i bleed the system if my problems are now gone.

 

So what was your problem to begin with? When my pump went bad, it started to leak from the weep hole. I replaced it and no more leaks. For the belt I find it easy to use a band clamp around the tensioner, than I just tighten it from underneath. Very quick and easy I saw it first on this forum.

 

It started smoking at a light, and pushing water everywhere. When i checked on it, there was a steady drip coming from the back of the water pump pulley. I assumed that was it and replaced it.

Now for some bad news. It seems my tensioner had a crack or piece missing. So about 10 minutes after start up the tensioner lost a sizeable chunk which then ate up the belt rather fast. So back apart it came to remove the shredded belt and get to the tensioner. I got the back and lower bolt off but am stuck right now trying to get the upper bolt out. I figured taking the alternator bracket off might make it easier but am stuck now with rounded head bolt holding the bracket on. So im kinda at a stand still trying to figure out what to do next.

 

That really sucks maybe it was the pry bar on the tensioner? Next time try the band clamp. I remember the altenator and bracket came off. The 2 idle pulleys too. And I think the middle bolt had a ps line bolted right in its way. Also I heard some people remove the tire, and the splash guard to get access. But I'm not sure if that was for which bolt.