My 2007 GXP with GT500 Wheels
05-21-2013, 07:28 PM
#3
They're 19 x 8.5 all the way around. 30mm offset.
Tires are 245/40/19 Toyo Proxes 4, Y-Rated. They are completely flush; no sticking out whatsoever.
I didn't gain any static weight in the front. Stock GXP Wheels and Tires weigh a touch over 51 lbs. The GT500's weigh almost 30lbs, but the Toyo's are super light at 22lbs.
After I weigh the backs wheels+tires, I will know what I gained.
05-22-2013, 01:18 PM
#6
To answer your question, yes and no. You have to make sure you watch your offsets. For example, this guy is running 18x9 saleen wheels, but his offset is 24mm. They will stick out, and in no way would I allow mine to. Again, I'll post a front and back picture, but I am flush with no camber. Different strokes for different folks. If you're running a 9 inch wheel, your offset should be 30mm drop dead, but ideally 36mm.
http://www.gpona.com/forums/04-08-gr...6k-t23010.html
http://www.gpona.com/forums/04-08-gr...6k-t23010.html
05-22-2013, 01:22 PM
#7
I'll also note that the difference between 245/45/19 and 245/40/19 was about 3lbs of static weight per wheel in the front. That is considerable, at least to me. So I opted for the smaller wall.
By running a 245/40/19, I only lost .3 of an inch in overall tire diameter in the front, which isn't bad at all. It will affect my speedo by like 2 mph at 90mph.
By running a 245/40/19, I only lost .3 of an inch in overall tire diameter in the front, which isn't bad at all. It will affect my speedo by like 2 mph at 90mph.
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05-22-2013, 01:49 PM
#9
What's the offset on the 18x9's? It will be close. 18x10's won't work IMO, but I'm not a tire expert. I just did my homework.
My rims are 8.5" wide, which equates to .5" wider in the front and 1.5" wider in the back compared to the stock alcoa rim.
My rims are 8.5" wide, which equates to .5" wider in the front and 1.5" wider in the back compared to the stock alcoa rim.
05-22-2013, 02:33 PM
#11
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05-22-2013, 03:12 PM
#13
They should work. But again, you have to really do your homework.
Here's a basic break down. I delayed my purchase of my wheels about a week, because I wanted to make sure I knew everything about the wheels/tires before I bought them. The only reason I have the one picture is because I only bought 1 wheel and 1 tire, just to be positive. I didn't want to be in the hole 1,700 bucks in case I didn't like them.
My whole thing is, sure I wanted a better look, and I achieved that (again, I'll know better once I get all 4 on the car), but I didn't want to lose any performance. The money that I've put into my intake, tune, (and most recently my solid motor mount) would be negated by a heavy-*** wheel/tire combo. It was important to me to only gain a couple pounds on the rear, and almost nothing on the front.
In reality, you can stick any size you want on the front, but any traction you would gain would be negated by the static wheel weight. For 1 pound of static wheel weight you can, you... Actually let me back up, I'm on my mobile right now and I've been mis-speaking this whole time. What I meant to say is UN-SPRUNG wheel weight, not static. Sorry about that...
Okay, so 1 pound of unsprung wheel, equals 10 pounds of sprung weight (like gas sitting in your gas tank). Therefore, if you run wheels/tires that are 5 pounds heavier per corner, that is like adding 200 pounds elsewhere in your car.. Keep in mind that generally every 100 pounds is about 1/10th in the quarter mile for slow guys like us
By looking at that 18x9 wheel that you have, you would most likely run a 265/35/18. From what I looked at online (on my cell phone) those tires would be like 26 lbs. All in all, you're looking at 54.4 lbs on the front per tire (remember stock is 51 per tire. So you're already almost 7 pounds of un-sprung weight on just the front tires, which is adding 70 pounds of sprung weight.
Stay with me here, I know this is a lot of info. Let's move to the backs to wrap it up.
Let's say that the stock weight for the back wheel/tire is 47 pounds (Its a guess but it sounds pretty accurate to me). In that case you would be 7 pounds of un-sprung weight over stock PER TIRE in the back. Which is 14 lbs total, x 10 is 140 lbs.
Add the 70 from the fronts and now all of a sudden, you're driving around with a 210lb sack of **** in your truck.
To re-cap: with what I'm running, I expect to gain a little in the back. Probably 8 pounds un-sprung total.
You would be gaining 21 lbs unsprung with what you want to run.
Hope this helps.
Here's a basic break down. I delayed my purchase of my wheels about a week, because I wanted to make sure I knew everything about the wheels/tires before I bought them. The only reason I have the one picture is because I only bought 1 wheel and 1 tire, just to be positive. I didn't want to be in the hole 1,700 bucks in case I didn't like them.
My whole thing is, sure I wanted a better look, and I achieved that (again, I'll know better once I get all 4 on the car), but I didn't want to lose any performance. The money that I've put into my intake, tune, (and most recently my solid motor mount) would be negated by a heavy-*** wheel/tire combo. It was important to me to only gain a couple pounds on the rear, and almost nothing on the front.
In reality, you can stick any size you want on the front, but any traction you would gain would be negated by the static wheel weight. For 1 pound of static wheel weight you can, you... Actually let me back up, I'm on my mobile right now and I've been mis-speaking this whole time. What I meant to say is UN-SPRUNG wheel weight, not static. Sorry about that...
Okay, so 1 pound of unsprung wheel, equals 10 pounds of sprung weight (like gas sitting in your gas tank). Therefore, if you run wheels/tires that are 5 pounds heavier per corner, that is like adding 200 pounds elsewhere in your car.. Keep in mind that generally every 100 pounds is about 1/10th in the quarter mile for slow guys like us
By looking at that 18x9 wheel that you have, you would most likely run a 265/35/18. From what I looked at online (on my cell phone) those tires would be like 26 lbs. All in all, you're looking at 54.4 lbs on the front per tire (remember stock is 51 per tire. So you're already almost 7 pounds of un-sprung weight on just the front tires, which is adding 70 pounds of sprung weight.
Stay with me here, I know this is a lot of info. Let's move to the backs to wrap it up.
Let's say that the stock weight for the back wheel/tire is 47 pounds (Its a guess but it sounds pretty accurate to me). In that case you would be 7 pounds of un-sprung weight over stock PER TIRE in the back. Which is 14 lbs total, x 10 is 140 lbs.
Add the 70 from the fronts and now all of a sudden, you're driving around with a 210lb sack of **** in your truck.
To re-cap: with what I'm running, I expect to gain a little in the back. Probably 8 pounds un-sprung total.
You would be gaining 21 lbs unsprung with what you want to run.
Hope this helps.
05-22-2013, 04:07 PM
#15
I would either go with a 275 or 285. Here's my situation, I make enough power to spin the tires going 50mph. I'm thinking an extra 30-40mm from stock would help immensely with all the tire spin. Along with that I'm getting my transmission built right now and will have 3.29s which will just make tire spin even worse.
05-22-2013, 06:10 PM
#16
I would either go with a 275 or 285. Here's my situation, I make enough power to spin the tires going 50mph. I'm thinking an extra 30-40mm from stock would help immensely with all the tire spin. Along with that I'm getting my transmission built right now and will have 3.29s which will just make tire spin even worse.
05-22-2013, 10:00 PM
#18
05-22-2013, 10:06 PM
#19
Yeah, I did LS6 swap and DoD delete all in one. Did it with the engine in the car and it was kind of a bare to rip off both heads and everything. Swapping over the intake was the easiest part lol. And I plan on going to a DynoJet after I get my new trans in so I can get some comparable numbers, but roughly 350whp and 320wtq on a Mustang Dyno.
05-22-2013, 10:15 PM
#20
Yeah, I did LS6 swap and DoD delete all in one. Did it with the engine in the car and it was kind of a bare to rip off both heads and everything. Swapping over the intake was the easiest part lol. And I plan on going to a DynoJet after I get my new trans in so I can get some comparable numbers, but roughly 350whp and 320wtq on a Mustang Dyno.