2006 GXP Temperature Problems
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2006 GXP Temperature Problems Hi guys,
I'm currently having some temperature fluctuation issues on my 2006 Grand Prix GXP. I'm hoping I just have some air in the cooling system, but I can't seem to find a bleeder on it anywhere. Can someone lead me in the right direction? Also, if you have any suggestions on how to go about bleeding it (especially if there isn't a bleeder somewhere) feel free to let me know.
Thanks
I'm currently having some temperature fluctuation issues on my 2006 Grand Prix GXP. I'm hoping I just have some air in the cooling system, but I can't seem to find a bleeder on it anywhere. Can someone lead me in the right direction? Also, if you have any suggestions on how to go about bleeding it (especially if there isn't a bleeder somewhere) feel free to let me know.
Thanks
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During normal driving, including long highway trips the temperature stays almost exactly between the 2nd and 3rd marks on the gauge, as shown in the following image. 
But if the car is stopped and idling for any period of time, such as a few consecutive red lights, the temperature gauge will move up to the next white mark, or slightly above it. Once the car is moving again the temperature drops back down and stays in its normal position until the next prolonged stop.
As for cooling system maintenance, I've had the car for about 6k miles (70k total) and haven't personally done anything maintenance wise or had any problems until now. It's running Dex-Cool and colorwise still looks almost the same as new fluid. I was hoping to try to bleed and fill first before diving in further, but if you have any suggestions I'm more than willing to try them.
Thanks
But if the car is stopped and idling for any period of time, such as a few consecutive red lights, the temperature gauge will move up to the next white mark, or slightly above it. Once the car is moving again the temperature drops back down and stays in its normal position until the next prolonged stop.
As for cooling system maintenance, I've had the car for about 6k miles (70k total) and haven't personally done anything maintenance wise or had any problems until now. It's running Dex-Cool and colorwise still looks almost the same as new fluid. I was hoping to try to bleed and fill first before diving in further, but if you have any suggestions I'm more than willing to try them.
Thanks
That's pretty normal actually the cars thermostat opens at 192 fans come on as well but at a lower rate most ls4's tend to operate in the 198-208 fish range that white line is around 200 ish so what you're seeing is normal within parameters if you want it to run cooler you could opt for the gto thermostat stock is 187degrees and have a runner up your fan power @ 192 if you're really concerned hope this helps
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Oh, that does make me feel a little better. I've only owned the car during the winter months so far and I hadn't really noticed that happening until now since it's warming up outside. With the DIC not displaying coolant temp I was just trying to be cautious and address it sooner rather than later if it was truly an issue. It does make me feel quite a bit better to know that white line is likely ~200.
Thanks a lot 91parkave
Thanks a lot 91parkave
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Like others have said that sounds like the normal fluctuation. But if it starts to fluctuate more. And fluctuate while going down the highway that is a sign of the water pump going out. Thats what mine did. Little bit at first, then alittle more and alittle more.
Water pump is pretty easy to change and the belt is not hard to get off if you know the trick. For me it was easy, took the wheel off and the plastic splash guard and just used a 1" wide ratchet strap around the tentioner and hooked it to the frame/subframe. Worked like a charm and thought it was safer than using 2 hose clamps connected together around it to compress it.
Water pump is pretty easy to change and the belt is not hard to get off if you know the trick. For me it was easy, took the wheel off and the plastic splash guard and just used a 1" wide ratchet strap around the tentioner and hooked it to the frame/subframe. Worked like a charm and thought it was safer than using 2 hose clamps connected together around it to compress it.
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Like others have said that sounds like the normal fluctuation. But if it starts to fluctuate more. And fluctuate while going down the highway that is a sign of the water pump going out. Thats what mine did. Little bit at first, then alittle more and alittle more.
Water pump is pretty easy to change and the belt is not hard to get off if you know the trick. For me it was easy, took the wheel off and the plastic splash guard and just used a 1" wide ratchet strap around the tentioner and hooked it to the frame/subframe. Worked like a charm and thought it was safer than using 2 hose clamps connected together around it to compress it.
Water pump is pretty easy to change and the belt is not hard to get off if you know the trick. For me it was easy, took the wheel off and the plastic splash guard and just used a 1" wide ratchet strap around the tentioner and hooked it to the frame/subframe. Worked like a charm and thought it was safer than using 2 hose clamps connected together around it to compress it.
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From: Orlando, FL
I did not have one that size laying around. The larger hose clamps seem to be a better quality than the smaller ones. I have had too many small ones fall on me while tightening them down to make me feel safe doing multiple small ones.
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monte carlo ss '07 My monte runs very warm it doesn't move never fluctuates. But its dead center would be like half way center line. I feel my engine bay is very warm anyway I can bring these temps like way down? Positives negatives?
Tuning, regardless fans are coming on at 192, however tuning enables the pcm to apply more percentage of power to the fans to help keep things cooler.
Get your coolant flushed out. routine maintnence is key.
For people that are in really hot places like me, i removed the rear hood weather stripping to allow airflow to pass through the engine bay. Ive had my car for 2 years with no issues (water leaking in the engine bay etc..) through super heavy rains or car washes.
Get your coolant flushed out. routine maintnence is key.
For people that are in really hot places like me, i removed the rear hood weather stripping to allow airflow to pass through the engine bay. Ive had my car for 2 years with no issues (water leaking in the engine bay etc..) through super heavy rains or car washes.
