LS2 Intake manifold and LS7 maf swap thread
04-16-2016, 11:33 PM
#21
All you need to do is shift the harness,no reason to use a modified pumore for a ls2. Also you should take the time now to put some heat reflective material on the bottom of the intake before slapping it on it helps tons. And if you can go around the outer shell with a welder or soldering iron and join the seem it will help with the inherent flaws of the ls2 structure
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04-16-2016, 11:39 PM
#23
Well ill keep an eye on it, I can use my bore scope to go down into the runners to check them anytime i please, not to mention this thing shouldnt be that difficult to remove anyway. If i have to ill plastic weld the seems together and smooth the runners out again. But thats a last resort.
04-17-2016, 08:01 AM
#25
Ive heard of the reflective tape thing, i really dont buy into it. I have brand new foam isolators under there that I glued on this morning, and it has a fairly large amount of space beneath it with the low profile valley cover that should allow air to pass through. CSP assures me that there are no issues with leaking air and I tested the seam around the outside and it was airtight. Only thing that really concerns me is these seams in the runners and this loose flap of one section, but they said it also is a non issue. Ill defer to their judgement on this one because they have great success with these.
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04-17-2016, 07:48 PM
#29
Ok so, i have to go back and take pics of the stuff that I had to modify, ill post a list in a bit after I sit down to eat some dinner. I didn't have time to take pics towards the end of the day because I was on a deadline to get this car running so I can get to work tomorrow. lol
Needless to say, the response is...INSANE. Now my MAF scale on the stock maf is already around +60% more fuel because of my already existing mods. I couldn't even get the car to stay running with the swap without at least +120% to stay running, wound up being about 180% more fuel all together. As I tune in the MAF scale it looks as though the scale is going to be flatter, it wants more fuel in the low HZ areas and less fuel up top by about 15%. The cylinder airmass I used to hit at WOT at the track was at most .68 in previous runs in which i had ran 13.7 @ 102. Ill let the picture speak for itself in a minute of what im hitting at PART THROTTLE. lol
I have a few more things to clean up, my PCV is venting to air, as is the purge , my brake booster is clamped tightly over the 3/8 fitting just so I have brakes while I drive tomorrow. lol Ill need to modify my CAI box a little bit more to accommodate the larger pipe, its on a bad angle right now. I have a thicker gasket coming for the MAP sensor to make it a little more secure. I also had some fitment issues sliding the intake all the way back, the coolant vent hose needs to be hammered back quite a bit otherwise it hits the port on the back of the LS2 manifold despite the barbs being lopped off.
The crossover coolant lines for the heater hoses also had to be hammered down and bent back some to allow clearance around the 90mm tb, I had to make sure those were also not rubbing against anything like the crossover pipe or the end of the TB so I didnt have to worry about a hole rubbing through.
A big issue is the pinout for the LS2/LS3 throttle body is WRONG. The 5v and Low reference signals need to be from the same pairing. Ill have to make an adjustment there on the diagram. Took me a half hour to figure out why the thing kept going into engine pwr reduced and throwing a P2101 code.
I machined spacers for the bottom of the fuel rail and they worked out perfectly, the PCV vent solenoid mounts up in almost the OEM location and the swap looks damn near perfect, as if it belonged there. Oil pressure is steady at 37-45psi at idle with the gasket I used, gets close to 60psi when driving. All in all it turned out very well.
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Needless to say, the response is...INSANE. Now my MAF scale on the stock maf is already around +60% more fuel because of my already existing mods. I couldn't even get the car to stay running with the swap without at least +120% to stay running, wound up being about 180% more fuel all together. As I tune in the MAF scale it looks as though the scale is going to be flatter, it wants more fuel in the low HZ areas and less fuel up top by about 15%. The cylinder airmass I used to hit at WOT at the track was at most .68 in previous runs in which i had ran 13.7 @ 102. Ill let the picture speak for itself in a minute of what im hitting at PART THROTTLE. lol
I have a few more things to clean up, my PCV is venting to air, as is the purge , my brake booster is clamped tightly over the 3/8 fitting just so I have brakes while I drive tomorrow. lol Ill need to modify my CAI box a little bit more to accommodate the larger pipe, its on a bad angle right now. I have a thicker gasket coming for the MAP sensor to make it a little more secure. I also had some fitment issues sliding the intake all the way back, the coolant vent hose needs to be hammered back quite a bit otherwise it hits the port on the back of the LS2 manifold despite the barbs being lopped off.
The crossover coolant lines for the heater hoses also had to be hammered down and bent back some to allow clearance around the 90mm tb, I had to make sure those were also not rubbing against anything like the crossover pipe or the end of the TB so I didnt have to worry about a hole rubbing through.
A big issue is the pinout for the LS2/LS3 throttle body is WRONG. The 5v and Low reference signals need to be from the same pairing. Ill have to make an adjustment there on the diagram. Took me a half hour to figure out why the thing kept going into engine pwr reduced and throwing a P2101 code.
I machined spacers for the bottom of the fuel rail and they worked out perfectly, the PCV vent solenoid mounts up in almost the OEM location and the swap looks damn near perfect, as if it belonged there. Oil pressure is steady at 37-45psi at idle with the gasket I used, gets close to 60psi when driving. All in all it turned out very well.
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04-17-2016, 09:05 PM
#35
so something unusual happened, went to the floor with it, and it did a pull, and when it went to shift it went into engine power reduced, not sure why. Then stability control came on and stayed lit up. I had to pull into a lot and the car was running rough, I couldnt get a code off the PCM for anything but when i hit clear dtc's it gave me the throttle back. Not sure what that was about.
. You will get it figured out, and save the masses some trouble lol