How much HP?
How much HP? How much WHP do you think the CAI, Exhaust and Diablo tune adds?
If you look (and trust, which i don't) at the Manufacturer-provided dynos, We're talking 9-10Whp for the CAI, another 9-10Whp for the Magnaflow, and maybe 15Whp for the Diablo...(don't remember seeing their Dyno sheet, though). All that said, they're claiming a possible low-end 33 WHP, which would translate to about 41Chp before driveline loss.
What do you think the REAL gains are here?
If you look (and trust, which i don't) at the Manufacturer-provided dynos, We're talking 9-10Whp for the CAI, another 9-10Whp for the Magnaflow, and maybe 15Whp for the Diablo...(don't remember seeing their Dyno sheet, though). All that said, they're claiming a possible low-end 33 WHP, which would translate to about 41Chp before driveline loss.
What do you think the REAL gains are here?
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I don't think the CAI or exhaust really adds that much... I would venture to guess probably about 12-15hp total for both of them. the tune is going to add more than a CAI or exhaust will individually... the predator tune shows about a 12-13hp gain on the monte dyno sheet, but not sure if that's the canned tune, or if it's with the ltft's and PE dialed in like we have.
So, conservatively, I'd say we got about 25hp more with the 3 items put together...
just my 2 pennies...
So, conservatively, I'd say we got about 25hp more with the 3 items put together...
just my 2 pennies...
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
The intake and exhaust will do nothing as far as hp at the crank, they just eliminate some of the driveline losses. So if the car is rated at 303 hp at the crank and is putting down 258 hp there is no more than 45 hp that can be recovered through the driveline through bolt ons and you still have losses from the accesory drive, transmission, gearing, axles, etc. Roller rockers a tune, or n2o would be the only real way to gain any real power at the crank on these cars.
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When I added CAI, Exhaust and Diablo tune I got my car dyno'd and I was 281 at the wheels, factory I think it was around 245-249 at the wheels so around 35 -40ish torque is what I got on my EX 
write off 2006 Impala SS
write off 2006 Impala SS 
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From: LITH, IL.
[QUOTE=Mike's 01WS6]The intake and exhaust will do nothing as far as hp at the crank, they just eliminate some of the driveline losses. So if the car is rated at 303 hp at the crank and is putting down 258 hp there is no more than 45 hp that can be recovered through the driveline through bolt ons and you still have losses from the accesory drive, transmission, gearing, axles, etc. ... QUOTE]
Since 1971 the test procedure for rating engines (while changing some of the details from time to time) has the power rated at the input of the transmission with all the accessories attached, a full exhaust (and the a/c equipment, if standard, declutched). A manufacturer can remove an accessory if, and only if, they subtract its parasitic loses from the final figure. Intakes are also installed.
the 2004 SAE standard (http://www.mazda6tech.com/images/dyno/sae.pdf) is what our cars are rated with. So the transmission/final drive is the only real non-crank loss (as far as the test goes). Opening up the exhaust will change the rating of the engine at the crank. Seems non-sensical, but following the test procedure would give a new crank reading as the exhaust loss is an integral part of the rating, same for the intake.
Since 1971 the test procedure for rating engines (while changing some of the details from time to time) has the power rated at the input of the transmission with all the accessories attached, a full exhaust (and the a/c equipment, if standard, declutched). A manufacturer can remove an accessory if, and only if, they subtract its parasitic loses from the final figure. Intakes are also installed.
the 2004 SAE standard (http://www.mazda6tech.com/images/dyno/sae.pdf) is what our cars are rated with. So the transmission/final drive is the only real non-crank loss (as far as the test goes). Opening up the exhaust will change the rating of the engine at the crank. Seems non-sensical, but following the test procedure would give a new crank reading as the exhaust loss is an integral part of the rating, same for the intake.
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Originally Posted by Nacho SS
Someone has to cam it...damn it!
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Originally Posted by Mike's 01WS6
Hopefully someone doing a retrofit of this engine into something else will want to experiment, with most of these being daily drivers its going to be harder to find guinea pigs.
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From: LITH, IL.
Originally Posted by Nacho SS
That is a good point, but I wouldn't mind having a mild cam for about 20 hp that would be relatively smooth for a dd.