, thank goodness my wife loves me! 
Rocker Install
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From: LITH, IL.
Rocker Install http://www.putfile.com/shouldershrug/images/110877
Everything installed, waiting a couple hours for the thread locker to harden up before I adjust the rockers and then button it up.
Went pretty smoothly with three exceptions. First being a broken 10mm thin-wall socket. Ripped it in half removing the very first original rocker bolt. Those suckers are on tight! (thread locking compound was all over the bolts) Have extra on hand when you do this job.
Second was trying to get the O2 sensor unplugged, just could not see how to do it. Was thinking there was another catch I could not see/feel and did not want to force it. Ended up just being on tight. Other than that, everything was pretty easy to get at, just had to do some of the even bank by feel with the pushrods and studs. Hopefully it goes back together as easy as it came apart.
Third problem was completely operator error, never done screw in studs before and I managed to bugger up the threads on the provided tightening bolt/locking bolt on the second stud. Thankfully they gave me two of the assembly (presumably to do one cylinder at a time) and I made due with just one for the rest of the job.
Everything installed, waiting a couple hours for the thread locker to harden up before I adjust the rockers and then button it up.
Went pretty smoothly with three exceptions. First being a broken 10mm thin-wall socket. Ripped it in half removing the very first original rocker bolt. Those suckers are on tight! (thread locking compound was all over the bolts) Have extra on hand when you do this job.
Second was trying to get the O2 sensor unplugged, just could not see how to do it. Was thinking there was another catch I could not see/feel and did not want to force it. Ended up just being on tight. Other than that, everything was pretty easy to get at, just had to do some of the even bank by feel with the pushrods and studs. Hopefully it goes back together as easy as it came apart.
Third problem was completely operator error, never done screw in studs before and I managed to bugger up the threads on the provided tightening bolt/locking bolt on the second stud. Thankfully they gave me two of the assembly (presumably to do one cylinder at a time) and I made due with just one for the rest of the job.
Does anyone know of a step-by-step writeup on this? I know for a lot of you it's self explanatory, but for me i wouldn't have a clue how to get in there and do it right. I really don't want to fall so far behind you all ; )
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From: LITH, IL.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=21
I read over this just now and it seems to be reasonably complete. Drop me a PM anytime if you think it might help to get another perspective. Mostly it is just unplugging some connectors (and that can be a chore in itself), unbolting, bolting in new (some form of adjustment) and plugging in connectors. Take your time and you can do it.
I have exactly two rocker swaps under my belt. After the first, I had no problem opening up a 10K mile engine and tossing my warranty out the window for the drivetrain on this one. Like almost everything in life, the worrying about it is worse/harder than the reality. Do one and you will be confident in your ability to do another for the rest of your days.
To get you started (front): disconnect the center plug to your coil packs. 5 bolts and the bracket with the coils will pull right off (after you remove the plug wires. Pull off vacuum hose from valve cover. 4 bolts on the valve cover and it will come right off. Now you are looking at your rockers. 16 bolts removed and you are down to the heads and spacer (spacer pulls right out when bolts removed). Do whatever install your particular rockers require and adjust if needed. Obviously you would do the same on the rear (even) bank, with the exception that there is a second connector there to the O2 sensor and it is a bit tighter back there and harder to see. Springs are more complicated and has a higher chance of something bad happening if one drops, but it is not much more work to do them either.
I read over this just now and it seems to be reasonably complete. Drop me a PM anytime if you think it might help to get another perspective. Mostly it is just unplugging some connectors (and that can be a chore in itself), unbolting, bolting in new (some form of adjustment) and plugging in connectors. Take your time and you can do it.
I have exactly two rocker swaps under my belt. After the first, I had no problem opening up a 10K mile engine and tossing my warranty out the window for the drivetrain on this one. Like almost everything in life, the worrying about it is worse/harder than the reality. Do one and you will be confident in your ability to do another for the rest of your days.
To get you started (front): disconnect the center plug to your coil packs. 5 bolts and the bracket with the coils will pull right off (after you remove the plug wires. Pull off vacuum hose from valve cover. 4 bolts on the valve cover and it will come right off. Now you are looking at your rockers. 16 bolts removed and you are down to the heads and spacer (spacer pulls right out when bolts removed). Do whatever install your particular rockers require and adjust if needed. Obviously you would do the same on the rear (even) bank, with the exception that there is a second connector there to the O2 sensor and it is a bit tighter back there and harder to see. Springs are more complicated and has a higher chance of something bad happening if one drops, but it is not much more work to do them either.
Last edited by 06 SS; May 24, 2007 at 12:32 PM.
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From: LITH, IL.
Mine are all done, left some skin in there, but such is life. I was bumping the starter to turn the motor when setting my zero-lash and forgot to disable the fuel pump. Now I am looking at a mostly dead battery and a flooded motor, neither is a good thing and together it is really sucky. Got my charger on the battery, will give it another whirl in an hour.
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From: LITH, IL.
Won't run on more than about 6 cylinders, I pulled the front 4 and only one looked dingy, but I am still hoping a fresh set will fix me right up. Might be hanging a valve or two open. The goofy instructions on setting zero lash don't sit well with me. I am going to leave all the plugs out and set it the old fashioned way by watching the rocker action and turning the engine by hand if the rear plugs look ok when I yank them. I don't believe I crunched a valve, but that would be just my luck.
sigh...
sigh...
Well, sheeeit...don't know much about zero-lash...that sure dampens my hopes & dreams! LOL
EDIT: Forgot to ask...would it be easier to just do the springs while you were in there, provided you could afford to buy it all at once, or wait long enough to get two separate purchases. I'm guessing it's just as easy in theory (?) to continue on to the springs once you're in there, just more at stake if you're not careful...correct?
EDIT: Forgot to ask...would it be easier to just do the springs while you were in there, provided you could afford to buy it all at once, or wait long enough to get two separate purchases. I'm guessing it's just as easy in theory (?) to continue on to the springs once you're in there, just more at stake if you're not careful...correct?
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From: LITH, IL.
Springs are not much more work, would have done them if I had them on hand today, especially since I pulled the plugs this morning. (aside from that SOB #8, tranny tube is in my way and I just did not feel like wrenching on it yet.) Found 3 plugs that were totally fouled. Pulled all the rockers (and in doing so...) Well, don't want to talk about it. The solution involved drilling and took many many hours.
Going to go buy new plugs now, removed all the pre-load from the rockers and will start over. I am ok with the procedure to set zero-lash, makes sense to me, but I do not care for the LSx instructions on setting pre-load with some of the lifters off the base circle.
Seems like a way complicated way to do things. I guess it should work, just set in my ways I suppose.
Going to go buy new plugs now, removed all the pre-load from the rockers and will start over. I am ok with the procedure to set zero-lash, makes sense to me, but I do not care for the LSx instructions on setting pre-load with some of the lifters off the base circle.
Seems like a way complicated way to do things. I guess it should work, just set in my ways I suppose.
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Ya there is more at stake if valves drop etc, if you aren't going to rev the **** out of it pass the factory rev then you don't need to change out the springs, from what i was told at speed shops the spring come more into play if you changed the cam. I am running the Crane 1.8's
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From: LITH, IL.
The Crane's are adjustable, they are not the torque and go kind. Have to set zero-lash, then set pre-load. The stockers, YT, and HS are set at a specific height and 22 lb-ft of torque gets them to the right pre-load and tight in the heads.
That number 8 plug was fouled as well. Got my zero-lash set (supposed to wait 30 minutes for something or other now), then I will install the new plugs (0.040" right?) and start the process of adjusting the valves. Two minutes of work and 15 minutes of sitting around, repeat 7 more times. Another 20 to put it all back together after that and twist the key. That is the plan anyway.
That number 8 plug was fouled as well. Got my zero-lash set (supposed to wait 30 minutes for something or other now), then I will install the new plugs (0.040" right?) and start the process of adjusting the valves. Two minutes of work and 15 minutes of sitting around, repeat 7 more times. Another 20 to put it all back together after that and twist the key. That is the plan anyway.
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From: LITH, IL.
1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3.
1 is to the front passenger side, 2 is rear passenger side, 3 is second from passenger side front, etc. The injectors will have a tag on them saying what cylinder it feeds. Take off your engine cover if you are unsure.
1 is to the front passenger side, 2 is rear passenger side, 3 is second from passenger side front, etc. The injectors will have a tag on them saying what cylinder it feeds. Take off your engine cover if you are unsure.
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From: LITH, IL.
Ok all done, again...
I am having some fueling problems, hopefully it is a programming problem and not mechanical. WOT O2 shows .93+, Cruise LTFT jump around some but hovers around -13! (considering my tune before had it at -.8, hoping the quick lifts are just confusing the PCM. It is so rich at idle that the plugs start to foul and I get misfire CEL if I sit more than about 20 seconds.
Aside from that minor (crossing fingers) trouble, even pig-rich, it feels like a lot more torque than stock. Stalls about 200 RPM higher under throttle and first gear pulls to 6200 (5900 before rockers) before it shifts under computer control. The hesititation in the mid-range where it catches its breath before climbing again is gone and once the tach sweeps past 5000 RPM, the needle darts to redline almost faster than you can follow.
Once I get it sorted out, I am sure I will be most pleased with it.
I am having some fueling problems, hopefully it is a programming problem and not mechanical. WOT O2 shows .93+, Cruise LTFT jump around some but hovers around -13! (considering my tune before had it at -.8, hoping the quick lifts are just confusing the PCM. It is so rich at idle that the plugs start to foul and I get misfire CEL if I sit more than about 20 seconds.
Aside from that minor (crossing fingers) trouble, even pig-rich, it feels like a lot more torque than stock. Stalls about 200 RPM higher under throttle and first gear pulls to 6200 (5900 before rockers) before it shifts under computer control. The hesititation in the mid-range where it catches its breath before climbing again is gone and once the tach sweeps past 5000 RPM, the needle darts to redline almost faster than you can follow.
Once I get it sorted out, I am sure I will be most pleased with it.
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From: CT
Hey Doug... sorry 'bout not getting back to you sooner... been running around all weekend.... anyway, just sent you an email about your log, but in case you read this first, here's what I sent'cha...
==============================================
k, here's what I found... YES, you are running pretty rich!
o2 at WOT is .92xx to .93xx... rich!
average ltft's at normal cruise are -7.45... rich!
but at WOT, your ltft's lock at -0.7813 - which is ok...
I don't know the ins and outs of the rockers and how or even if they would change the fueling.
Here's the first thing I would try. Reset the ltft values stored in the pcm. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then step on the brake pedal to discharge any residual power in the system, then wait about 20 minutes. After that amount of time, re-connect the negative battery cable. Your ltft's are now reset.
Drive for about 30-50 miles to get them relearned - do another log and lets see where the numbers are at. If they're the same, then we know something's up and we'll make adjustments.
===============================================
As I said, first thing to try is resetting the values that it has stored in the pcm and let it relearn them from scratch. However, if you HAVE already done that before this log you sent me, and you're still getting the misfires/fouled plugs, then here's what I would do for changes based on the log you sent me...
set the injector slope to +8%
leave the PE ranges alone for now, since making the slope positive will make the injectors spray less fuel, then O2 numbers at WOT will fall as well, since we're leaning it out.
Let me know man!
-Lew
==============================================
k, here's what I found... YES, you are running pretty rich!
o2 at WOT is .92xx to .93xx... rich!
average ltft's at normal cruise are -7.45... rich!
but at WOT, your ltft's lock at -0.7813 - which is ok...
I don't know the ins and outs of the rockers and how or even if they would change the fueling.
Here's the first thing I would try. Reset the ltft values stored in the pcm. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then step on the brake pedal to discharge any residual power in the system, then wait about 20 minutes. After that amount of time, re-connect the negative battery cable. Your ltft's are now reset.
Drive for about 30-50 miles to get them relearned - do another log and lets see where the numbers are at. If they're the same, then we know something's up and we'll make adjustments.
===============================================
As I said, first thing to try is resetting the values that it has stored in the pcm and let it relearn them from scratch. However, if you HAVE already done that before this log you sent me, and you're still getting the misfires/fouled plugs, then here's what I would do for changes based on the log you sent me...
set the injector slope to +8%
leave the PE ranges alone for now, since making the slope positive will make the injectors spray less fuel, then O2 numbers at WOT will fall as well, since we're leaning it out.
Let me know man!
-Lew
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
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From: LITH, IL.
actually, the fueling is really terrible, it acts like I knocked a vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator (not sure the LS4 even has a set up like that, but that is what it feels like) went looking a little bit today after my weekend away for a conventional FPR and did not find it. Not familiar with the LSx engines at all. Anyone know how/where the regulator is and does it require vacuum?
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Resolution:
Long story short (well, not too short), called up Crane and they said that I could toss the bizarre directions for setting preload that Vinci/Crane provided and set the preload just like any other small block (watch the rockers and set intake when exhaust first starts opening up and exhaust when intake rocker just sets back down, insuring on cam base circle.) and to only use 1.25-1.5 turns vs the 2 turns the directions said. It seems that at least 4 of the intake valves (per spark plug examination) were hanging slightly open with the 2 full turns of preload. Pumping unburned air/fuel mixture back into the intake.
All better now....and by better I mean it is a real torque monster with a vast increase in torque down low and in the mid-range (courtesy of the fast shutting of the intake valve by the quick lifts) and screams up top (thanks to the 1.8 ratio). Most satisfactory. Will be putting some more miles on it this week and get the fuel nailed down on Sunday.
edit change rocker ratio to 1.8
Long story short (well, not too short), called up Crane and they said that I could toss the bizarre directions for setting preload that Vinci/Crane provided and set the preload just like any other small block (watch the rockers and set intake when exhaust first starts opening up and exhaust when intake rocker just sets back down, insuring on cam base circle.) and to only use 1.25-1.5 turns vs the 2 turns the directions said. It seems that at least 4 of the intake valves (per spark plug examination) were hanging slightly open with the 2 full turns of preload. Pumping unburned air/fuel mixture back into the intake.
All better now....and by better I mean it is a real torque monster with a vast increase in torque down low and in the mid-range (courtesy of the fast shutting of the intake valve by the quick lifts) and screams up top (thanks to the 1.8 ratio). Most satisfactory. Will be putting some more miles on it this week and get the fuel nailed down on Sunday.
edit change rocker ratio to 1.8
Last edited by 06 SS; Jun 6, 2007 at 01:12 PM.
Yea they work, with the springs as many of you know i gained almost a second of e/t from stock (14.0 @ 101) with the rockers, springs, catless DP and tune. and of course minor traction. Car went from 13.6 @ 102 (intake, tune and DP) to 13.1 @ 105 this year, e/t courtesy of sticky tires, mph courtesy of the rockers.
