This makes it sound soooo easy,
Document ID# 1460569
2006 Chevrolet Impala


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Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rod Replacement
Removal Procedure




Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side and/or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side .
Important: Place the valve rocker arm, pushrod, and pivot support, in a rack so that the can be installed in the same location from which they were removed.

Remove the valve rocker arm bolt.
Remove the valve rocker arm.



Remove the valve rocker arm pivot support.



Remove the pushrod.
Clean and inspect the valve rocker arm and pushrod. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rods Cleaning and Inspection .
Installation Procedure
Important:

• When reusing the valve train components, always install the components to their original location and position.

• Valve lash is net build, no valve adjustment is required.






Lubricate the valve rocker arm and pushrod with clean engine oil.
Lubricate the flange of the valve rocker arm bolt with clean engine oil.
Install the valve rocker arm pivot support.



Important: Make sure that the pushrod seats properly to the valve lifter socket.

Install the pushrod.



Important: Ensure that the pushrod seat properly to the ends of the rocker arm. DO NOT tighten the rocker arm bolt at this time.

Install the rocker arm and bolt.
Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position.
The engine firing order is 1, 8, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 3.

Cylinders 1, 3, 5, and 7 are the left bank.

Cylinder 2, 4, 6, and 8 are the right bank.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
Tighten

• Tighten cylinders 1, 2, 7, and 8 exhaust valve rocker arm bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).

• Tighten cylinders 1, 3, 4, and 5 intake valve rocker arm bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).

Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
Tighten

• Tighten cylinders 3, 4, 5, and 6 exhaust valve rocker arm bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).

• Tighten cylinders 2, 6, 7, and 8 intake valve rocker arm bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).

Install the valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side and/or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side .

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Document ID# 1460569
2006 Chevrolet Impala

 

My rockers, springs, pushrods and cam are all still nicely wrapped...

 

Thats for factory. Using the Crane LS1 1.8 is way different setup.

 

While the Crane's are a bit different, the instructions on where to turn the engine to put the lifter on the base circle would be the same, just have to manually turn the engine one turn to get them all done. Beats the heck out of spinning it 3x that many times!

 

Hows your rocker arms 06 SS? Mine have been perfect for a week now since I used the .020 gap inbetween each valve spring and rocker. And I am one of the people that spinned it 3+ x's

 

fine and dandy, not a peep out of them, quieter than stock, I do not understand, did you use a 0.020 shim? Mine are dead perfect at 1.5 turns after zero lash (and nearly 900 miles later, quiet for the last 400 or so). Go ahead and PM me on the other rocker stuff, no sense in making anyone else read through these posts. On the plus side though, the temps finally got below the upper 90's here and the little LS4 pulls really, really hard in the <relatively> cooler (80F) air with the added lift/overlap/effective duration. Will see about getting a video from a stop to highway speeds this week.

 

how is that different?
thats a basic run down on how to do it.

 

Only difference is that you have to remove the aluminum spacer, add the new studs, find zero lash (remove the plugs to rotate engine by hand, then put them back in at the end), preload the lifters, lock the jam-nut.

 

mine that i had were much easier

put on, set to 22 ft lbs, turn motor over, go

 

I'm starting to pick up my parts to do this. I purchased the tool to compress the springs off a member of the LS board that makes them. I decided to upgrade the springs to the LS6 yellow springs, brand new $53 from Lingenfelter. Should be fine for the job. Pushrods and HS rocker arms are next on my list.

 

What ones did you use?

 

Yella terra or Harland Sharp...IIRC

 

harlan sharps

 

Thank You. happy with them?

 

they got rid of the dead spot, or power fall off in the upper rpm range. definately a difference. also picked up 13 whp from them as well.

 

I knew I spelled that wrong....

 

13 whp across the board, or in a certain rpm range? Have a copy of the dyno sheet you can post?

 

typically higher lift rockers will hurt torque a couple of lb-ft down low (with attendant loss of horsepower) and only show gains in the upper RPM range. His 13 gain would likely be peak power and not across the board.

 

Roger that, with rockers I am a little softer down low, but pull harder up top.

 

Out of curiosity, did you check your piston to valve clearance during the install?

Don't know if anyone has posted up the results of such a check so far, but it would be nice to get a rough idea how much room there is.