LS4 Heat Soak Reduction Kit
#62
Here is what the tech that is building my config for my dyno run next week just said.
It is up to you on this one. I can change the IAT spark tables to not take out as much timing with heat or you can get this kit, Basically they both do the same thing.
So if you have HP Tuner you don't need this kit you can do the same thing adjusting the IAT spark tables.
It is up to you on this one. I can change the IAT spark tables to not take out as much timing with heat or you can get this kit, Basically they both do the same thing.
So if you have HP Tuner you don't need this kit you can do the same thing adjusting the IAT spark tables.
#63
I suppose that might be true on a drag strip when the under hood temps are always higher than the intake, but this approach would alter normal driving (including the occasional slapping of a Mustang when your not building up under hood temps. If your IAT is really high and you change the tables, you’d be introducing KR unnecessarily.
I would think that fast and accurately read intake temperatures would be preferable to a global shift in timing, especially when you consider different seasons.
I would think that fast and accurately read intake temperatures would be preferable to a global shift in timing, especially when you consider different seasons.
#64
Read this I found on HP Tuner
Finally a topic I can contribute to
Dont waste your money on the Vector HSRK kit. I know they claim that the relocation does not get heat soak and their sensor acts faster.
But I tested it 3 different ways and it just doesnt work.
The first method was connect both the stock IAT and the Vector IAT to the analog inputs of HPT and drive around starting from cold to a hot truck in 95 degree weather.
If anything, the stock IAT was faster.
I tried two different methods of testing and each time the Vector fell on its face ! It also read 5 degrees cool compared to stock sensors.
You can read the write up here http://www.ss-shootout.com/hsrk-results.html
Focus your efforts on getting cold air. The IAT is there for a purpose.
Finally a topic I can contribute to
Dont waste your money on the Vector HSRK kit. I know they claim that the relocation does not get heat soak and their sensor acts faster.
But I tested it 3 different ways and it just doesnt work.
The first method was connect both the stock IAT and the Vector IAT to the analog inputs of HPT and drive around starting from cold to a hot truck in 95 degree weather.
If anything, the stock IAT was faster.
I tried two different methods of testing and each time the Vector fell on its face ! It also read 5 degrees cool compared to stock sensors.
You can read the write up here http://www.ss-shootout.com/hsrk-results.html
Focus your efforts on getting cold air. The IAT is there for a purpose.
#65
Originally Posted by scarlett
Read this I found on HP Tuner
Finally a topic I can contribute to
Dont waste your money on the Vector HSRK kit. I know they claim that the relocation does not get heat soak and their sensor acts faster.
But I tested it 3 different ways and it just doesnt work.
The first method was connect both the stock IAT and the Vector IAT to the analog inputs of HPT and drive around starting from cold to a hot truck in 95 degree weather.
If anything, the stock IAT was faster.
I tried two different methods of testing and each time the Vector fell on its face ! It also read 5 degrees cool compared to stock sensors.
You can read the write up here http://www.ss-shootout.com/hsrk-results.html
Focus your efforts on getting cold air. The IAT is there for a purpose.
Finally a topic I can contribute to
Dont waste your money on the Vector HSRK kit. I know they claim that the relocation does not get heat soak and their sensor acts faster.
But I tested it 3 different ways and it just doesnt work.
The first method was connect both the stock IAT and the Vector IAT to the analog inputs of HPT and drive around starting from cold to a hot truck in 95 degree weather.
If anything, the stock IAT was faster.
I tried two different methods of testing and each time the Vector fell on its face ! It also read 5 degrees cool compared to stock sensors.
You can read the write up here http://www.ss-shootout.com/hsrk-results.html
Focus your efforts on getting cold air. The IAT is there for a purpose.
#67
Originally Posted by scarlett
I would buy the hood pfyc offers for the GP but I have read people say it cracks and ****. That would make me snap paying 1100 to get the hood and painted.
#68
I know what mine did and I'm sold that it worked. I wonder if he had a bad sensor. Mine responded quicker as I noted before. Prior to my tests I took turns swaping the plugs to activate either the stock or Vector and watched the temps before everything heated up. Mine showed the same.
Do what you want, but on mine it worked. If I get another I'll be sure to check the results and return it if it dosen't work.
Do what you want, but on mine it worked. If I get another I'll be sure to check the results and return it if it dosen't work.
#69
Originally Posted by Nacho SS
Yeah...[redneck] y'all gots a RamAir hooood? [/redneck]
#70
I got the hood for mine more for the heat extraction than the ram air. No problems with cracking on mine yet (knocking on wood). Although, I do think if you cut out the hole in the hood for the ram air, you might get cooler air flow in when driving for lowering IATs, so... Of course, that is only a guess.
As far as the kit, a monkey could install it in 2 minutes, it looks like a factory one, no wires to splice (which made me kinda nervous about doing my own for some reason) and definitely did have faster response times. I am happy with it.
As far as the kit, a monkey could install it in 2 minutes, it looks like a factory one, no wires to splice (which made me kinda nervous about doing my own for some reason) and definitely did have faster response times. I am happy with it.
#71
Originally Posted by nighthand
I got the hood for mine more for the heat extraction than the ram air.
#72
bringin this thread back from the dead....does anyone know if the grommet is 3/8'' inside diameter or outside diameter? i plan on making one so was just wondering what size i needed. thanks!
#73
If you have a k&n or something and don't want to drill a hole, take the filter off, put the sensor in the filter then install the filter loosely. Pull the wiring snug so the sensor isn't flopping around then tighten the filter clamp. Thats what I did anyway.
#75
as far as cold air goes i think its you gain about 1 percent of your hp for every 10 degrees you drop the intake temp as far as the ram air effect if you create a perfect system you can only expect a 3 percent ram effect a more realistic is like .. to 1.2 percent if i remember correctly..... although i have to say i can tell when my ported headlight is in vs when it is not.... iat generally i have seen with the stock headlight in is about 10 degrees hotter than outside with the headlight in its usually 1-5 degrees hotter in the same situations if higher then it drops rapidly once you get moving
#77
i dont know how legit this is but its a good read
http://www.karlsnet.com/mopar/ramair.shtml
the whole 1lbs of boost thing i think i got from car craft or from a thunder racing ram air thing from my buddies camaro either way i could be wrong. any car ive ever ridden in including my 80 always felt like an improvement having a ram air on it.
http://www.karlsnet.com/mopar/ramair.shtml
the whole 1lbs of boost thing i think i got from car craft or from a thunder racing ram air thing from my buddies camaro either way i could be wrong. any car ive ever ridden in including my 80 always felt like an improvement having a ram air on it.