Installed CAI
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From: Missouri
Installed CAI So I went to Oreilly's and picked up the parts I needed a few days ago, and finally got around to getting everything done tonight. After a simple cut of some plastic, and removing some things, the airbox came right out, 
And now, this is in it's place:
It's by far not the cleanest thing as of yet (Note: price tag still on metal tube) But it's effective, and everything works right. There's no leaks, either. So what do you guys think? It even matches the paint.
And now, this is in it's place:It's by far not the cleanest thing as of yet (Note: price tag still on metal tube) But it's effective, and everything works right. There's no leaks, either.
So what do you guys think? It even matches the paint. Looks pretty good. Any chance you can swap the MAF and the tube that the filter is mounted to?
I ask because I've noticed that the IAT sensor integrated into the MAF heat soaks due to it's proximity to the crossover tube. Moving it a bit farther away from the crossover will reduce heat soak and provide a more consistent temperature reading to the ECM.
I ask because I've noticed that the IAT sensor integrated into the MAF heat soaks due to it's proximity to the crossover tube. Moving it a bit farther away from the crossover will reduce heat soak and provide a more consistent temperature reading to the ECM.
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From: Missouri
I was wondering about that, but I'm not sure how to go about it. Whether or not an aftermarket company makes a different housing for it, or if I could find a 3" hard plastic tube and dremel it.. Also; the tube is as long as I can work with, without geting one bent to fit in there. That length, not sure how long, causes the tip of the filter to hit against the sheet metal as it is. Without bending it to get it further away, and using a longer pipe, don't know if it would work.
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I bet it sounds a lot better than stock and of course it looks a lot better, but honestly it probably doesn't perform any better than the stock setup unless you pull the headlight. If you have the time try to see if you can extend it into the fenderwell or at least try to build some kind of shield around it and move the IAT sensor. I'm not trying to knock what you did, just trying to help. But if all you want is the sound then I'm sure you got that.
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From: Missouri
I know you're not knocking it. 
pointers are wanted! And yeah, right now I'm playing with a bit of extendable hosing, seeing if I can possible get it down to the bottom grill, to get a straight burst of cold air from it. I'm thinking I can get the flex-pipe in to the end of the filter, (Which is open just like the filter, so it pulls air in also), and run the pipe down to the bottom grill. Anyone know if this will achieve something similar to locating it in the fender well?
pointers are wanted! And yeah, right now I'm playing with a bit of extendable hosing, seeing if I can possible get it down to the bottom grill, to get a straight burst of cold air from it. I'm thinking I can get the flex-pipe in to the end of the filter, (Which is open just like the filter, so it pulls air in also), and run the pipe down to the bottom grill. Anyone know if this will achieve something similar to locating it in the fender well? Trending Topics
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From: Missouri
Alright! So I figured this would happen. I am throwing code #P0101 - Airflow Sensor\MAF Reading Error\Disfunction. Would this be caused by the general higher flower the 360 degree filter provides, or did I plug the damn thing back in wrong? Also; any way this would be causing the "Service Traction Control" message I've been getting since installed the CAI?
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Verdad Gallardo Maximum Delta Air Flow - P0101 Error: The VCM will constantly check the MAF operation by comparing the MAF calculated airflow against the calculated airflow using speed/density calculations. If the difference exceeds the threshold value at the particular speed/density calculated airflow then P0101 will be set.
Well, I'm surprised that a CAI caused this code to be set. I can't see a CAI changing the airflow enough to cause the MAF airflow to change that much compared to the SD airflow calc.
Do you have a tuner/scan tool like HPT? That will tell you if your MAF is connected and operating. Maybe your tune does need a tweak due to the CAI.
When you eliminated the stock airbox, how did you mount the ECM/TCM? Have you grounded the ECM/TCM's? GM mounted them in the airbox, completely isolating their cases from chassis ground. Not sure this is the answer to the Traction control issue, just a long shot.
Well, I'm surprised that a CAI caused this code to be set. I can't see a CAI changing the airflow enough to cause the MAF airflow to change that much compared to the SD airflow calc.
Do you have a tuner/scan tool like HPT? That will tell you if your MAF is connected and operating. Maybe your tune does need a tweak due to the CAI.
When you eliminated the stock airbox, how did you mount the ECM/TCM? Have you grounded the ECM/TCM's? GM mounted them in the airbox, completely isolating their cases from chassis ground. Not sure this is the answer to the Traction control issue, just a long shot.
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From: Missouri
I left them in the bottom of the airbox, only seperating the top half of the airbox to allow me to fit the CAI. The wiring and everything else is still mounted in the plastic bottom of the stock airbox. That wouldn't be the cause, could it? As far as I know, the traction control is seperate from the air flow reading, as NO code was thrown out for the TC.
Edit 1: Just went out and unplugged both the sensors, replugged them. Gonna start it and see if that was the cause.
Edit 2: Does the Remote Start not work if it's throwing a code?
I tried to remote start it, and it just clicks.
Edit 1: Just went out and unplugged both the sensors, replugged them. Gonna start it and see if that was the cause.
Edit 2: Does the Remote Start not work if it's throwing a code?
I tried to remote start it, and it just clicks. Last edited by Semper91-RS; Mar 10, 2008 at 08:52 PM.
Trouble codes can cause the remote start not to work. I experienced this after unplugging the TB. Once the TB was plugged back in, had to start with the key, after that, the remote start worked again. :shrug:
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From: Missouri
Hm. Well, considering I don't have the money to tune it right now, I guess the CAI is coming off. Stock airbox back on. I'll be doing that tomorrow. A bit dissapointing, but I'll put the CAI on when I can afford an HP tuner. I do get the exhaust done tomorrow, though, so at least it won't be stock.
Edit: So I'm looking at the K&N filter, and wondering.. What's the difference, really? All I'm noticing is that there's a plastic tube instead of my metal one. And the other guy on here who did use metal piping hasn't had this issue.. So I'm at a loss as to why it's being screwy like this.
Edit: So I'm looking at the K&N filter, and wondering.. What's the difference, really? All I'm noticing is that there's a plastic tube instead of my metal one. And the other guy on here who did use metal piping hasn't had this issue.. So I'm at a loss as to why it's being screwy like this.
Last edited by Semper91-RS; Mar 10, 2008 at 10:48 PM.
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nah, you messed something else up... I've got a 9" K&N cone filter on the end of my MAF, and I have never gotten a code... everything runs perfect...
something's up... check your wires, clamps around the MAF, etc etc...
did you take the screen out or anything?? (hope not)
something's up... check your wires, clamps around the MAF, etc etc...
did you take the screen out or anything?? (hope not)
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From: Missouri
No, I didn't remove anything vital.. But I was thinking about doing what you just mentioned, to see if it would kill the issue. I'm going to try it, and see what happens. Thing is, I don't know how anything else could've been messed up. I didn't remove the screen inside the stock tube, the plugs are all in, wires are connected.. I don't know what else it could be. Also; you'rs didn't code at all before you had it tuned?
One other thought. How saturated with oil was your filter? Over the course of the day or two since you installed the CAI enough oil may have transferred to the MAF element to screw up MAF reading and set the code. You might want to invest in a spray can of electrical contact cleaner, clean the MAF and see what happens.
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Cleaned the MAF, wasn't it. But I did fix it. The pipe I was using was causing way too much heat soak, and that's all the MAF was getting was hot air, so I guess it threw a code over that. Anyways, I took it off, and set in a steel high-flow filter of the same length, without the pipe, and the check engine light dissapeared.
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I'd have to agree with what was already said.. Its pulling hot air in, so the only gain you're going to probably see is any noises that are no longer dampend from the stock box.. It would be super easy to make a fiberglass shield around it or even a plastic one if you could find a flat piece of plastic...
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I'm working on doing the piping down to the front grille, but I don't know how to go about it, since my flex pipe is 3", and the diameter of the opening on the end of the CAI is 2.5". Also; all this hot air speak, tell me exactly where I would put this piece of imaginary flat plastic?