Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I'm posting this for a less automotive inclined buddy, so I can tell him what free/cheap things he can do for a bit more oomph.

It's an 06 GXP, and so far he's mentioned wanting to do 18x8 all around (so he's looking to get 2 more 18x8s if anoyne has some cheap heh) and !Resonator.

There anything else that is recommended? Is the IAT shoved right up next to the motor on those and get a bit heat soaked?

Thanks!

BPGXPrix

Everyone, including me, does the motor mount flip.
Easy to do. Gives alil better throttle response.
Do a search and it's easy to figure out.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Nothing else though huh? Really no need for a IAT/MAF relocation up stream on the air intake?

Wasn't really able to find a good tutorial for the mod, but gave him a few links to stuff I did find.

neilownz

thats not free though

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

What isn't? IAT relocation?

If so, I think quite a few people consider a "free" mod, something that doesn't require purchasing aftermarket items. Example: TPI/LT1 there's the TB coolant bypass mod, costs 0-$5 for parts, still is a free mod. If there's a STB on a different car that fits on these and is fairly cheap, I'd consider that a free mod as well due to being a factory part. Now, if you had to buy it new, well not so much then lol

djfeezy

The IAT on these cars is built into the mass air flow sensor. If you want to relocate it, vector motorsports makes a kit to do that. I've got it on mine and it does work better.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

What's that kit run?

20SS07

As far as the STB that won't be free, since no standard bar fits. You need a modified one to clear the alternator.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

That's what I've been noticing, but if you could clearance a stock one, would there be one you could use from another vehicle?

neilownz

iat thing is like $100

20SS07

The one from GM that's for w-bodys. That's what is used for the modified ones. Getting one to clear without the notch for the altnerator means you need higher brackets thus giving you some hood bulge.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Man, what the heck all does it include!? I'd think relocating the MAF wouldn't be quite that in depth to require $100 in parts :S


The W-Body ones actually work well? They seem awfully cheap, by that I mean the mounting point, comes to just a small flat area. Seems like that might flex a bit. For 2 of those and the CNC plates from this one guy, it'd run like $175, or my friend said the guy would get him 2 painted ones for $100 and then he'd need the rest and he said the total would be $203... For that amount I'd rather get something that looks nicer and appears to be a bit stronger, like the BMR 2-pack for $145~!

Now, that mount flip again, he's slightly confused (again as am I lol), do you A) remove the whole front mount and flip it around (core support side becomes motor side and vice versa) or is it B) flipped upside down and it the holes stay on their respective mounting points (front on front, back on back)?

There still no opinions on the resonator delete? Or anyone have a sound clip showing a before and after sound difference? I'm pretty sure there won't be any power gain, since it should essentially be a glasspack (for lack of a better description) flow-through design. Usually something like that (!res) is just to improve sound or make it a bit louder.

I think in light of there really not being any free mods, I'll start a new thread asking what people recommend for the first mods to have done.

Thanks for all your help though!

20SS07

The GM ones work fine. The rear one is the one that really makes the difference though in these cars. I'd recommend just using those everyone else has had no problems with them. Not familiar with the design of the BMR ones though and how they compare size wise to the GM ones as far as clearance issues. For me I wasn't really going for looks, just painted mine and called it a day.

There should be a good write-up on how to do the motor mount flip. I'm not too familiar with it myself. I think you're essentially just roating the rubber part on the inside, or somethin like that.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Oops! I was looking at the wrong link, the picture showed both, but it's only one. $279 for 2 BMR, and here's the link and how they look.
http://www.lmperformance.com/2629/12.html

I wasn't able to dig up a very descriptive (for the non wrencher) Guide on the mounts. Seems funny that it'd just be spinning the inside rubber IN the mount. Doesn't really follow the name "motor mount flip". :\ The one thread had a picture with arrows but was only of the whole bay and didn't show what is done. I guess if anyone COULD do this for me or him/other non-wrencher-enthusiasts, take pics of before and after of the rubber rotate? >_> heh

20SS07

I thought I remember a pretty good write-up. I'll try and find it when I get a chance. Maybe it was over on NAIOA.com, I forget.

Those bars look nice, however as is it looks like there's no way they will fit. The alternator on the V8 cars sits alot higher than in the supercharged and N/A cars. Here's how the modified bar fits in mine and you can see how a bar that goes straight across won't fit.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Silly GM What's that loooong *** extended bracket by the front? Swap the alternator over there hah

Those core-strut braces, mods as well? I only mention it because their color looks different.

20SS07

The diaganol braces were there from the factory. I just painted them red when I painted my STB.

Not sure which bracket you're talking about....

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

T'would be this one:

20SS07

Ah gotcha. Never even really took notice to that before. Probably not be worth the trouble just for the STB haha. Even if those ones do look alot nicer. You can even get away with just the rear I put that one in first and then didn't really notice much of a difference on top of that once I put the front one in.