autotrix

iTrader: (5)

As if nobody has seen or heard of removing this part before...
A thermal breaker that gets hot and breaks due to excessive current draw and heat...
Try a voltage drop test and you will see that the drop is before the thermal switch.

Removing this part has indeed improved to be helpful in some situations, but you cant argue and toot your horn in a sales thread with electrical facts that you have not really tested.

RedFirehawk

iTrader: (5)

Wow, you are Clueless. I have tested and Repaired. I know about the Voltage drop. And your repair is Just a bandaid for what is going to happen to Both window motors to the Internal Circuit Breaker. You Fixin the Voltage drop Just lets More Voltage get through the Breaker. But Over time the Breaker starts letting less and less Voltage to Brushes in the motor until it finaly doesnt let any Voltage at all to the Brushes wich causes the, Slow going up, the stops part way then you have to wait and then try again later and the stop working altogether problems. Also , Im not REMOVING anything. I BYPASS the Breaker externally.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

i may need to look into this.. my motors are not blown yet, but they are slow

autotrix

iTrader: (5)

Nothing works forever, and everything eventually dies. Band-aid, repair, fix, call it what you want.

The brushes in the motor are the physical item that wears and causes the issue at hand, not the breaker, although I am not saying that it isnt possible for a breaker to fail.




Thanks for the interest-I hope you are talking about our product.

RedFirehawk

iTrader: (5)

The Brushes 99% of the time outlast the Breaker!!

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

Well... You can believe what you want to believe. The breaker can fail, however this is not a common thing and I will explain below. Also our kit fixes the Passenger side window. 90% of everyone discussing what is wrong has to do with there passenger side window. The reason for this is not that the window motor manufacturers put bad breakers only in the the passenger side motors. Some people do have driver side issues also and this can also be explained by voltage issues do to how the express down module functions. Thats a whole other debate though. Also, how can adding direct battery current to the motor be a band-aid if the breaker has really failed. Failed breakers are...failed right. Lets look at how the breaker works first.

"Raychecm Circuit Protection's PolySwitch Polymeric Positive Temperature Coefficient (PPTC) devices are used to help protect against harmful overcurrent surges and overtemperature faults. Like traditional fuses, these devices limit the flow of dangerously high current during fault conditions. The PolySwitch device however, resets after the fault is cleared and power to the circuit is removed, thereby reducing warranty, service and repair costs. Thsi is achieved by using a polymeric PTC material, which is a matrix of a crystalline organic polymer containing dispersed conductive particles, usually carbon black. The sharp increase in resistance, as shown in Figure 1, is due to phase change in the material. In its cool state the material is mostly crystalline, with the conductive particles being forced into the amorphous regions between the crystallites."

So basically the breaker heats up and increases resistance to a point that is equivlent to opening the circuit.

These motors were built as cheap as possible. The brush carbon type and brush springs were speced to 12v 15amps. Factory wiring from 93-02 only delivers max 10v. Over time a DC motors brushes will build up a film/dust coating. When you significantly increase the current to the motor the arcing will increase and actually break down this film and "clean" the contact area allowing the motor to opperate better. If we were providing the motor overcurrent this would be bad and it would eat at the carbon quicker than designed and kill the motor. Our kit provides proper current so it

1. Cleans the contact area and starts a new "trend of operation"
2. Allowing proper power insures motor life can be exteneded much further depending on how bad the initial wear was.


Now how about those breakers actually failing. What happens?

"The typical failure mode of the device is to fail in a high resistance state. This means that the device does not return to its original low resistance value such that it can maintain the original specified hold current. In order to achieve UL recognition, the device must meet two criteria: (1) be tripped 6,000 times and still exhibit PTC behavior and; (2) stay in a tripped state for over 1,000 hours while exhibiting PTC behavior. If a device is subjected to fault events that exceed its rated voltage and current, or extended for multiple trip events which exceed UL test requirements, the device can exhibit arcing and flame."


So if the breaker were to fail it would actually fail in an almost open circuit state and adding more power would do nothing. The breaker would be stuck in a high resistance state and even if adding power would help it would still trip quickly and operate slow. Our kit has shown no characteristics like that.

A breaker can fail, brushes can get dirty. However, that is not what our kit addresses. Secondly our kit requires no removal of the window motor or factory safeguards.

We have tons of happy customers posting results daily. I apologize to everyone for this open debate. This is our biggest thread on here and we have to respond to statments that will confuse people and are un-substantiated.

RedFirehawk, please PM me with your response if you wish to keep attacking our products. This is a sales thread and we are a paying sponsor. If you would like to start a thread in an appropriate section to attack our product and make yourself feel good then do so and we can continue there.

RedFirehawk

iTrader: (5)

Like I said you do not have a clue. This type of breaker just doesnt go to almost open state or really high resistance state. They gradualy let less and less current get to the brushes until they fail completely.This is not your TYPICAL circuit Breaker. It Fails in a different way then other types.Its almost always a gadual Failure over time. Your repair only fixes a low voltage problem. The breakers will still slowly fail and the customer will still end up with the same problem 6 months or a year later. Then what good was you upping the voltage if the circuit breaker is going to Fail. When your customer window motors start to Fail even after your repair after time. So what do you tell your customers when the drivers side is doing the same thing? Replace the Motor, Lube the Regulator? Those things can help also. Just like Bypasing the Internal Circuit breaker. I have that same information About the name and Function that Internal Circuit breaker In a Chevrolet Service manual. But my 20 years working on GM cars showed me how these window motors fail. Not the way you say they Fail. I didnt attack your product until you attacked me first I just stated

"Well I Have fixed these window Motors buy Bypassing the Internal Circiut Breakers for years and It takes about 15 minutes a door. 3 inches of wire an Eyelet and a screw or a rivet. Its really easy and costs about $2. Did it on both my doors on my 1991 Z28 and and they worked for 3 more years after they both quit working. Then I sold the car. Its an easy fix that I have had to show many people. Cant believe no one has figured it out yet. Oh well good luck with your business. Looks like your doing good!"

Then you got more insulting to me after that. You would think a business man would be more professional.

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the feedback, we will take your comments into consideration.

Please refrain from filling our thread with more arguments

RedFirehawk

iTrader: (5)

Ok man Good luck. I wasnt saying your product doesnt work just that theres other issues that need to be adressed also.

autotrix

iTrader: (5)

ttt...

hz28

iTrader: (4)

It works!!!

Just took me like one hour and the window is as fast as my car.

Thanks

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

Of course it does

Thanks for the vid!

ou885

iTrader: (1)

So you didn't change your window motor? My passenger window goes down fine but will not go back up at all. I will probably have to change the motor though.

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

He just installed the AutoTrix Window Fix Kit.

You can go to our website and see more before and after videos. Also do a search and you will find many posts by members with the same results.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

well it happened today, my drivers side window motor died

if i purchase the new and improved window motor, do i take my old one out and replace it with the new and improved one?

what exactly do i need to do?

thanks

1baddls1

iTrader: (31)

awesome kit!!!
totally worth the $49 shipped
saved alot of time not thinking how to do it myself & everything is proper lengths with fool proof directions

good job!!!
feedback left

WS6.Jay

iTrader: (2)

Kit does work great, now fix the driver side issue so it's not 10x slower then the passenger side when both of them have new motors!

gnomee

iTrader: (16)

Thanks we appreciate it!

Kit is only $38.95 shipped.

We are working on it. Thanks for the order!

ou885

iTrader: (1)

Installed my kit today. Unfortunately my pass. window motor is gone so I will have to replace that as well.

autotrix

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like you need a drivers side replacment motor installed..
I am sorry but as of yet, we dont have a repair for the drivers side....but we will!



Well that stinks but unfortunatly the motor is sometimes to far gone and needs to be replaced. On the brighter side, your autotrix kit will allow better passenger window performance and motor life, once the new one is installed!