$342 to get FLUIDS changed?!?!?!
10-17-2008, 10:57 AM
#22
My best theory on the "changing tranny fluid kills trannies" is that those are the folks who only bother to change it once it exhibits a problem and then blame the fluid for the failure. In some cases I suppose fresh fluid could clean out some varnish and cause circuits to leak a little more hastening the demise but by that point the thing was well on it's way to death anyhow.
All that said the OP clearly stated he has a M6 tranny and many of you are still talking like he has an automatic.
Some are pretending there are only tree fluids in a car too. Let this be a lesson to the rest of you, be very careful who you listen too.
All that said the OP clearly stated he has a M6 tranny and many of you are still talking like he has an automatic.
Some are pretending there are only tree fluids in a car too. Let this be a lesson to the rest of you, be very careful who you listen too.
10-17-2008, 11:06 AM
#23
Actually in todays world changing the transmission fuid is a must for a good long life. Ford has been one of the worst offenders. Some of there units need changed every 20k miles for a nice working unit.
There is a alot more wear and tear inside an automatic(and many new manual) transmissions then there used to be. Pulse width modulation of valves and clutch's are very abusive and one of the most used functions today.
Many newer transmissions are asked to do alot with less then ever. The fluids are designed with consumable ingrediants to help stop wear and to function a particular way. Once those are used up the wear really starts and the function of the transmission changes.
As 96 mentioned the reason you see "I changed the fluid and it took a dump" is because nine times out of ten it was acting up before it was serviced and the fluid change was far to late to do its job. Kind of like changing the oil on your engine after the rod has already started knocking. Then when it blows the rod out the side of the block you blame the oil change
SO by all means please continue!
There is a alot more wear and tear inside an automatic(and many new manual) transmissions then there used to be. Pulse width modulation of valves and clutch's are very abusive and one of the most used functions today.
Many newer transmissions are asked to do alot with less then ever. The fluids are designed with consumable ingrediants to help stop wear and to function a particular way. Once those are used up the wear really starts and the function of the transmission changes.
As 96 mentioned the reason you see "I changed the fluid and it took a dump" is because nine times out of ten it was acting up before it was serviced and the fluid change was far to late to do its job. Kind of like changing the oil on your engine after the rod has already started knocking. Then when it blows the rod out the side of the block you blame the oil change
SO by all means please continue!
Last edited by TwoFast4Lv; 10-17-2008 at 11:18 AM.
10-17-2008, 11:15 AM
#24
For the trans your local parts store should have a tube, that you can twist to start stop fluid flow. Also works well for the rear differential.
Raise the bottle of fluid up by the driveshaft, twist it open and squeeze the fluid into the trans. Its full when fluid starts to trickle out of the fill hole.(In my case I put too much in and it was flowing out.
)
Also for oil/trans fluid draining/transport, look at the pic below. The pan in the middle is good for under the car, this will get fluid all over it in a messy fashion. The one on the end is great for taking the fluids to your local auto parts store, where they will dispose of your oil.
I used coffee cans when I drained my trans fluid as I was reusing it once I stuck the trans back in the car. I ended up putting it that bottle in the first pic and squeezing it in instead of pouring through the shifter, as well that would have made a mess trying to pour from the coffee can inside the car.
Haven't seen it mentioned yet but don't mix dexcool with the green stuff, or so people claim.
Get some cat litter for spills, have fun.
Raise the bottle of fluid up by the driveshaft, twist it open and squeeze the fluid into the trans. Its full when fluid starts to trickle out of the fill hole.(In my case I put too much in and it was flowing out.
)Also for oil/trans fluid draining/transport, look at the pic below. The pan in the middle is good for under the car, this will get fluid all over it in a messy fashion. The one on the end is great for taking the fluids to your local auto parts store, where they will dispose of your oil.
I used coffee cans when I drained my trans fluid as I was reusing it once I stuck the trans back in the car. I ended up putting it that bottle in the first pic and squeezing it in instead of pouring through the shifter, as well that would have made a mess trying to pour from the coffee can inside the car.
Haven't seen it mentioned yet but don't mix dexcool with the green stuff, or so people claim.
Get some cat litter for spills, have fun.
10-17-2008, 01:16 PM
#25
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10-17-2008, 01:20 PM
#26
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and to the OP, I haven't read through this whole thing but...
Get a Haynes manual from the autoparts store. It'll walk you through it.
Don't be afraid to do all your own work. Take an auto tech class if you can. It'll save you a lot of money in labor, so you can get more speed parts
Get a Haynes manual from the autoparts store. It'll walk you through it.
Don't be afraid to do all your own work. Take an auto tech class if you can. It'll save you a lot of money in labor, so you can get more speed parts
10-17-2008, 01:42 PM
#29
I say PWNT to all you that keep saying to change the auto fluid.. the kid's got a T56, he even put it in BOLD.
To the OP.. as far as changing fliuds, it's not too bad, just takes a little time and can be messy.
Basically with anything on these cars, the cheapest way is to do it yourself. If you have the time, start researching it and reading, then looking at where everything is on your car, and you will learn it.
I learned by taking stuff apart and seeing how it works pretty much. Then I went from there..
To the OP.. as far as changing fliuds, it's not too bad, just takes a little time and can be messy.
Basically with anything on these cars, the cheapest way is to do it yourself. If you have the time, start researching it and reading, then looking at where everything is on your car, and you will learn it.
I learned by taking stuff apart and seeing how it works pretty much. Then I went from there..
Last edited by the_merv; 10-17-2008 at 01:52 PM.
10-17-2008, 02:43 PM
#30
LOL YUP!!
I swear I no more then wrote that And I got a call on a Crown Vic
MERV I caught that but was addressing other comments
I got a question. How many of you you be bothered if some one came into where you work and they ask for a service. You then give them a reasonable quote and they get pissed and say "I can do it cheaper my self you thief!"
Would that bother you any? If you can do it your self that is great. I do alot of things my self. Then again I do not call some one a thief for doing some thign I can not
I swear I no more then wrote that And I got a call on a Crown Vic
MERV I caught that but was addressing other comments
I got a question. How many of you you be bothered if some one came into where you work and they ask for a service. You then give them a reasonable quote and they get pissed and say "I can do it cheaper my self you thief!"
Would that bother you any? If you can do it your self that is great. I do alot of things my self. Then again I do not call some one a thief for doing some thign I can not
10-17-2008, 02:49 PM
#31
MERV I caught that but was addressing other comments
I got a question. How many of you you be bothered if some one came into where you work and they ask for a service. You then give them a reasonable quote and they get pissed and say "I can do it cheaper my self you thief!"
Would that bother you any? If you can do it your self that is great. I do alot of things my self. Then again I do not call some one a thief for doing some thign I can not
I got a question. How many of you you be bothered if some one came into where you work and they ask for a service. You then give them a reasonable quote and they get pissed and say "I can do it cheaper my self you thief!"
Would that bother you any? If you can do it your self that is great. I do alot of things my self. Then again I do not call some one a thief for doing some thign I can not
It would bother me, then I would tell them that it's the price I charge to make sure their **** gets done right, so if they don't want to pay, then quit asking people what they would quote for their laziness.
10-17-2008, 04:31 PM
#32
No matter who you are, you most likely know more about these cars than I do...so please contribute some answers and dont just leave me hanging. Thanks! I am a car noob. I am on my second car (a totally stock 94 trans am M6 with 90,000 miles in very good condition(or was)) and the biggest thing I have ever done to a car is change a tire...Yes, it is sad, but do me a favor and make fun of me behind my back and not on this thread
I went to the place my mom gets her oil changed at for her Honda CR-V, it is one of those real quick drive in and sit in a lobby for 15 min and you are out of there, but apparently you really pay for convenience. I lost one of my jobs a while ago and could not pay insurance on the trans am...the car was not driven for quite some time and now when ever I drive it the check engine light comes on(so i stopped driving it). It also makes squeaky noises when i turn the car(forgive my lack of car knowledge). I bought the car from a dealer not too long ago and was going to get all fluids changed so when the guy at my moms place told me it was going to be like $342...I was shocked. I have to save money for college and can not and will not pay that.
Here is what I am thinking. is it that hard to change all fluids(i want to change everything so know what has and hasnt been done)? I have a mechanically inclined friend who could help me...1.How much would it cost me to buy all the fluids myself(I want the good stuff)? 2.What exactly does all fluids mean(oil, rearend, tranny, coolant...what else??? 3. Anything else I should change or check? 4. WHat fluids are best for the $$$(best oil, best tranny fluid etc? I have heard great things about ROYAL PURPLE, but I am not sure if that is the best gig for a high mileage engine, even though I wouldnt mind the few HP!! I just ordered a GMMG exhaust today and will also be getting LPP LT headers and ORY and a CAI if that makes any difference since my car wont be stock any longer. As always thanks guys.
I went to the place my mom gets her oil changed at for her Honda CR-V, it is one of those real quick drive in and sit in a lobby for 15 min and you are out of there, but apparently you really pay for convenience. I lost one of my jobs a while ago and could not pay insurance on the trans am...the car was not driven for quite some time and now when ever I drive it the check engine light comes on(so i stopped driving it). It also makes squeaky noises when i turn the car(forgive my lack of car knowledge). I bought the car from a dealer not too long ago and was going to get all fluids changed so when the guy at my moms place told me it was going to be like $342...I was shocked. I have to save money for college and can not and will not pay that.
Here is what I am thinking. is it that hard to change all fluids(i want to change everything so know what has and hasnt been done)? I have a mechanically inclined friend who could help me...1.How much would it cost me to buy all the fluids myself(I want the good stuff)? 2.What exactly does all fluids mean(oil, rearend, tranny, coolant...what else??? 3. Anything else I should change or check? 4. WHat fluids are best for the $$$(best oil, best tranny fluid etc? I have heard great things about ROYAL PURPLE, but I am not sure if that is the best gig for a high mileage engine, even though I wouldnt mind the few HP!! I just ordered a GMMG exhaust today and will also be getting LPP LT headers and ORY and a CAI if that makes any difference since my car wont be stock any longer. As always thanks guys.
Change them all yourself, http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/lubeoil.htm
10-17-2008, 05:22 PM
#33
Everybody is on the bandwagon, telling you to put synthetic fluid in the rear end. Let me pass this on to you, and I would appreciate it if nobody blasts me for this, as I'm ony repeating what a customer tech from a major oil company told me...
At one time, I had a '93 Caprice LTZ in the family. I switched over to syn lube in the rear, but was unsure whether or not I should put the posi-additive in also. I called the oil company's tech line, but at this point I forget which company it was. Anyway, they told me to add it, but then asked how old the car was, and how many miles were on the car. I said 7 years and 50,000miles. He hesitated a bit, and then said at that mileage, the seals have gotten acclimated to the dino oil, and changing to syn might cause the seals to leak.
As it turned out, I sold the car about 6-7 months later, but to someone I knew. He never told me about any leaks, and as far as I know, he still has the car, but I haven't talked to him in a while. I also had a '97 S-10 4x4 for a winter vehicle. I had Valvoline syn in the rear axle, and at one point switched to Mobil 1. The pinion seal started to seep a bit.
Again, I'm just passing on some information.....
At one time, I had a '93 Caprice LTZ in the family. I switched over to syn lube in the rear, but was unsure whether or not I should put the posi-additive in also. I called the oil company's tech line, but at this point I forget which company it was. Anyway, they told me to add it, but then asked how old the car was, and how many miles were on the car. I said 7 years and 50,000miles. He hesitated a bit, and then said at that mileage, the seals have gotten acclimated to the dino oil, and changing to syn might cause the seals to leak.
As it turned out, I sold the car about 6-7 months later, but to someone I knew. He never told me about any leaks, and as far as I know, he still has the car, but I haven't talked to him in a while. I also had a '97 S-10 4x4 for a winter vehicle. I had Valvoline syn in the rear axle, and at one point switched to Mobil 1. The pinion seal started to seep a bit.
Again, I'm just passing on some information.....
10-17-2008, 08:24 PM
#35
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I say PWNT to all you that keep saying to change the auto fluid.. the kid's got a T56, he even put it in BOLD.
To the OP.. as far as changing fliuds, it's not too bad, just takes a little time and can be messy.
Basically with anything on these cars, the cheapest way is to do it yourself. If you have the time, start researching it and reading, then looking at where everything is on your car, and you will learn it.
I learned by taking stuff apart and seeing how it works pretty much. Then I went from there..
To the OP.. as far as changing fliuds, it's not too bad, just takes a little time and can be messy.
Basically with anything on these cars, the cheapest way is to do it yourself. If you have the time, start researching it and reading, then looking at where everything is on your car, and you will learn it.
I learned by taking stuff apart and seeing how it works pretty much. Then I went from there..
and to agree with others, if you smell the ATF and its very dark colored or has a burnt odor, then DO NOT change the fluid. but if you maintain it regularly this wouldnt be an issue. if the fluid is dark, that generally tells something in the trans is smoked or on the verge of smoking...
and MERV again, i believe the T56 takes standard dexron (someone correct me if i am wrong, GMglobalconnect is down, so i dont have access to Service Information at this time) its been a while, i always run amsoil, since i switched, ive never had another issue with grinding
Last edited by SLawson86; 10-17-2008 at 08:30 PM.
10-17-2008, 09:19 PM
#37
and MERV again, i believe the T56 takes standard dexron (someone correct me if i am wrong, GMglobalconnect is down, so i dont have access to Service Information at this time) its been a while, i always run amsoil, since i switched, ive never had another issue with grinding
I was saying that to those that were telling him to check the Dipstick for it, and the good way to fill it is the Dip Stick Tube..
10-17-2008, 11:20 PM
#38
If you need Royal Purple MaxATF, get it from summit. Get them to price match it from a place called "blowbyracing.com" it's a ford site that sells maxatf for 8.95, and summit will sell it for 7.95, $4 cheaper than their list price. The wal-mart near me carries RP 5w30 for $6.50 a quart.
10-17-2008, 11:31 PM
#39
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I love how they even found their way into this thread for the "Don't Change your Tranny Fluid!!!" Crap. As pointed out its normally when its too late and then they blame that.
I like though how ppl argue with those in the industry just because they "Think" they know more then those who "Actually" do it.
As for the OP not sure where your located but bring it over and some pizza and beer... and I will do it why not lol. I will even show you how the Diff is the one you will probably be the most confused but its def not bad at all. The Tranny and Motor are really easy once you know what your doing.
As for Pref's on fluids.
I stick with Val, have for years esp Max Life *Shrugs* I like it. I personally switch between 5w30 and 10w30 since I live where it gets over 100 degrees most every day during the summer.
For the Tranny I have been using Castrol's ATF Domestic. Seems fine so far, Synchromesh just leaked out...
For the rear end I use Lucas but Royal Purple is great too.
As for Mobil... I thought they proved Castrol was the best oil in LSx's was it different for the LT's?
I like though how ppl argue with those in the industry just because they "Think" they know more then those who "Actually" do it.
As for the OP not sure where your located but bring it over and some pizza and beer... and I will do it why not lol. I will even show you how the Diff is the one you will probably be the most confused but its def not bad at all. The Tranny and Motor are really easy once you know what your doing.
As for Pref's on fluids.
I stick with Val, have for years esp Max Life *Shrugs* I like it. I personally switch between 5w30 and 10w30 since I live where it gets over 100 degrees most every day during the summer.
For the Tranny I have been using Castrol's ATF Domestic. Seems fine so far, Synchromesh just leaked out...
For the rear end I use Lucas but Royal Purple is great too.
As for Mobil... I thought they proved Castrol was the best oil in LSx's was it different for the LT's?
10-18-2008, 12:33 AM
#40
I will stick with what has worked for me in the past...anyways, did you know some new cars come without a transmission dipstick tube? For example i own a 2006 SRT8 Magnum, it dont have a dipstick to measure tranny level. Some manufacturers claim up to 100,000 interval for changing fluids, specially those using the Dexron III ATF fluid. This is under warranty. In fact a big number of tranny failures have arisen from people changing fluids randomly, using wrong fluids based on super duper arguments found in car forums (not talking about this one!).....The overall agreement is changing it at 30,000 to 50,000 miles....so you would change the tranny fluid 2 or three times (at most) in the life of your vehicle (of course car enthusiasts continue to own the same vehicle for a LOT of years, but i think these are a minority when compared to the general population).
This is an interesting thread so far!
This is an interesting thread so far!