Oil Pan Access?
Oil Pan Access? I kind of have a somewhat stupid question, how exactly do you remove the oil pan with out dropping the k-member? I was wondering because, when I put the studs into the mains and change the oil pump, I'm going to move the k-member. But, how do you lower the k-member to work on the bottom end hence your motor mounts are on the k-member, or do I have to lower the whole front clip and put the motor on a stand? WTF? Can someone explain this?
It's easy. All you have to do is take out the two motor mount bolts and jack the engine up until the oil pan will come out. I can have an oil pan out in 20 minutes including jacking the car up.
Also, make sure you take the low oil level sensor out before you drop the pan. It will get hung up on the windage tray.
And last, I wouldn't recommend putting in main studs without being able to check the main journals for distortion. You can't really do that without the motor torn down on the stand.
Also, make sure you take the low oil level sensor out before you drop the pan. It will get hung up on the windage tray.
And last, I wouldn't recommend putting in main studs without being able to check the main journals for distortion. You can't really do that without the motor torn down on the stand.
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From: fort campbell
re you do not have to drop the k-member to pull the stock pan. the difficulty depends on whick trans you have I think the M6 is tougher. When I pulled the stock pan for a Canton I supported the motor with a cherry picker and then losened the k-memeber bolts one at a time. I did this so that I could leave the k-member hanging on the last 3-4 threads of each bolt. Came out pretty easy over all
You can not get the pan off the engine in a m6 without lowering the k member or removing the trans, I have done it. I jacked the engine up with the motor mount disconnected and lowered the k member that was the only way the pan would clear the trans while pulling it out.
I have an A4, so from what I'm getting I can just jack the motor up after I loosen the motor mount bolts. I didn't know if you could do that because of how far the cowl is over the engine. Fergy you really think the mains can be distorted to where I won't be able to get studs in? That means if they are, an align hone is in my future huh?
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That can be done, but it will be a pain in the *** with the K-member there. I'd be less work to pull the Engine.
Personally, if I''m changing Bearings, I would get the Crank Journals polished. That way they are cleaned up for the new Bearings. You never put an old surface on a new Bearing.
Personally, if I''m changing Bearings, I would get the Crank Journals polished. That way they are cleaned up for the new Bearings. You never put an old surface on a new Bearing.
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Verdad Gallardo Here's my dilemma, I wanted to beef up the bottom end a LITTLE bit but, I need my car to get back and forth to base and I don't have another ride. And to top it all off, this is all before I get the 383 together so the motor in the car wont stay. When the 383 gets thrown in the original 350 is gonna become another spare 355 or 383.
I'm a little worried about blowing the 180,000 mile motor in the time being, and then I'm hosed! I just don't know if I trust a stock cast botom end motor with that many miles on it.
Fergy you really think the mains can be distorted to where I won't be able to get studs in? That means if they are, an align hone is in my future huh?
If I were you I would leave it alone unless you think you have lower than acceptable oil pressure. If that's the case then you could try a higher volume oil pump to bandaid it till the new motor is ready.
