2 bolt with a girdle or 4-bolt conversion?
2 bolt with a girdle or 4-bolt conversion? what would you guys recomend for my set-up, heads/cam/150 shot i am just looking for a little extra insurance to keep the stock crank where it belongs, i am going to do studs either way on the mains and arp bolts for the rods, so what do you think is more cost effective a girdle or 4-bolt billet caps, i read the caps are like 89.95 but then you need to line bore them after drilling 
if i gotta get machining and what not for the caps id rather go with the girdle, let me know what you guys and gals have done and what it ended up costing, thanx
if i gotta get machining and what not for the caps id rather go with the girdle, let me know what you guys and gals have done and what it ended up costing, thanx 
You're looking at $500 in machine work to prep a block for 4-bolt caps then do a line hone.
I just spent $295 on a good set of 4-bolt splayed caps. I don't know what you get for $89.
150 will probably be just fine with studed mains depending on RPM.
Stock bottom ends stand up to 100-125 without issue, even on H/C cars.
Having said that, if you blow your motor upm, don't come crying to me.
My official CYA recommendation is to go with a splayed main.
I just spent $295 on a good set of 4-bolt splayed caps. I don't know what you get for $89.
150 will probably be just fine with studed mains depending on RPM.
Stock bottom ends stand up to 100-125 without issue, even on H/C cars.
Having said that, if you blow your motor upm, don't come crying to me.
My official CYA recommendation is to go with a splayed main.
I personally have the 2 bolt mains with arp studs but I would suggest coffin up the dough and upgrade to the 4 bolt caps. I haven't heard many ppl using the girdle but I'd like to get some info on that myself !
i thought you were supposed to line hone if you switched to studs since the clamping force would cause different levels of distortion? with that said i went with splayed mains. 750 for drill/tap, line bore/hone, install
If you are going to invest money in 4-bolt caps, you're also going to spend the $30 and buy a nice set of bolts. (or studs)
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if i were to use studs is there anything else needed besides installing them in the block and then torquing the caps the proper specs? there was mention of line boring in an above post so just want to make sure i have all the info before i make any decisions, thanx so far for all the help
1.)Debur your caps and block with a fine file, do not remove any metal, just DEBUR!
2.) Install studs into block dry (no lube, no loctite) till bottomed out then back them out 1/4 turn.
3.) Install caps insuring they are in the correct position and that the tang side of the cap is on the tang side of the block. Set the plastic handle of a screw driver on top of the cap and hit that with a hammer to get the cap down, insuring that there centered before you whack it in place.
4.) Install the washers and nuts with ARP thread lube, oil, engine assembly lubricant, whatever you want and torque to the specs your hardware came with. Torque loosen and re torque 4 times with the 4th time being your final. Torque loosen, torque loosen, torque loosen, torque.
5.) Call local machine shop and get a quote to have them check if your main bore is in spec.
6.) If it isn't be ready to dish out the money to have it align honed.
Align boring is similar to align honing, it just uses a carbide tip instead of honing stones to remove metal. You only get align bored if your REALLY out of spec and a lot of metal needs removed. In that case it would get align bored then align honed for the final pass. Align honing just leaves a prettier finish. A good machinist technically could make a light cut with the last pass when align BORING and have a finish that would be suitable but it might not look pretty to the customer so they don't.
When you buy aftermarket caps they come undersized and you automaticaly start out with line boring, if you started honing you would be there honing for days. Installing 4 bolt main caps is more time consuming then most would think. It's not as simple and bolting them on and running a hone through it.
2.) Install studs into block dry (no lube, no loctite) till bottomed out then back them out 1/4 turn.
3.) Install caps insuring they are in the correct position and that the tang side of the cap is on the tang side of the block. Set the plastic handle of a screw driver on top of the cap and hit that with a hammer to get the cap down, insuring that there centered before you whack it in place.
4.) Install the washers and nuts with ARP thread lube, oil, engine assembly lubricant, whatever you want and torque to the specs your hardware came with. Torque loosen and re torque 4 times with the 4th time being your final. Torque loosen, torque loosen, torque loosen, torque.
5.) Call local machine shop and get a quote to have them check if your main bore is in spec.
6.) If it isn't be ready to dish out the money to have it align honed.
Align boring is similar to align honing, it just uses a carbide tip instead of honing stones to remove metal. You only get align bored if your REALLY out of spec and a lot of metal needs removed. In that case it would get align bored then align honed for the final pass. Align honing just leaves a prettier finish. A good machinist technically could make a light cut with the last pass when align BORING and have a finish that would be suitable but it might not look pretty to the customer so they don't.
When you buy aftermarket caps they come undersized and you automaticaly start out with line boring, if you started honing you would be there honing for days. Installing 4 bolt main caps is more time consuming then most would think. It's not as simple and bolting them on and running a hone through it.
