jarretthise

iTrader: (9)

also you have to remember you are running a mail order tune!! there is no lifter noise is there??

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

We both have 3.42's m6. As far as I know there is no lifter noise. I'm not sure I could pick it out aside from rockers either though.. I think it might be running lean up top, it will hesitate sometimes. I've been thinking about getting some bigger injectors, but that needs to be tuned into the pcm. All of that costs money which i'm pretty damn low on.

What you think I should do that would be most cost efficent? I ordered a lt4 km tonight. HOPING that helps out alot. Try to sell my svo's and get some #36 injectors and dynotune is probably the best/safest route to take..

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

You need to swap out them 3.42's

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

I agree completely, 4.10's are in my future, as soon as I hook up decent next year, hello 12 bolt!

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

4.10's, a tune and you should pull pretty much any and every bolt on LS1 on the road

meanredZ

And most cam only ones once he has everything figured out.

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Depending on what cam the LS1 is running...there are some insane cam only LS1's out there

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

Very true, those t-rex cam's are pretty stupid it seems like, would be fun to run one though (with car running right of course).

I talked to tuner and he said that lt4 km will not help in this case, which blows. So I guess as of right now I'll have to find myself a good dyno tune and see where I'm at. I'd honestly be suprised if I broke 315rwhp by the looks of the run I had with buddy's ls1.. This is aggravating!

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

It will come together! Just takes some time!!!!

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

If the valve adjustment is off it will KILL power. Zero lash+one QUARTER turn. A 1/2 turn at most.


Make sure its not pulling the studs out

lt170chevelle

iTrader: (2)

do you have hardened pushrods? maybe they are bent and slowly bending more when you retourqe the rockers. if not maybe a lifter or even cracked rocker arm. just some ideas.

meanredZ

Yeah I know. Companies keep coming out with better and better off the shelf cams all the time that put down crazy power, not o mention custom grinds. The OP will just have to stick to racing the small cam only LS1's lol.

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

I've read people doing 3/4 turn then later adding another 1/8 or 1/4 turn to that, seemed like a bit much to me so I did 1/2.. I can only assume if I went back at adjusted them again it would just be noisier at 1/4.

They are making so much freakin noise on the driver side, I don't understand it. I even took it to a mechanic to have them check it out. They couldn't get it to quiet down either, they're adjusted correctly though that's why it's so confusing.

Yeah, I have new hardened pushrods they should be alright.. I think haha.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

Well Brahh, there's nothing wrong with a mail order tune especially after a head/cam swap. As long as the tuner is competent and experienced in tuning, there's no reason that tune shouldn't get you more than 85% of the way there. I'll agree with Forced Induction, I wouldn't use the mail order tune for more than just getting it to a dyno.

My friend did a 383 with CM stage 2 AL heads, and I forget the cam. PCMforless did him the initial tune. Guess what after dicking around on the dyno for over an hour he only picked up an additional 10rwhp cause the tune was a little on the rich side.

Nothing wrong with a Mail Order tune. Besides even after a Dyno, the best tuning is done with datalogging while driving the car on the street.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

Lifters Dictate preload. If they're stock lifters GO no more than 3/4 Turn past zero lash. What brand rockers are they? If they're Pro Mags they're going to be loud..

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

They are pro mags and comp hydraulic lifters. I figured the rockers would be little louder than stock, which they are, just driver side is more so.. Who knows I'll probably check them again tonight, make sure none are lose. Waiting for the knock module and then going to schedule apointment for dyno asap.

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

I myself would never do a mail order when rebuilding...that's just me though. I have seen and heard many stories about cars running like **** after mail order tunes when heads and cam come into play. Not saying it wouldn't run ok...I just like being present when the tune takes place so you can see for yourself and adjust the things that may need tweaking if somethings not running proper. Different strokes for different folks

ryle

iTrader: (19)

A friend of mine ended up getting a mail order tune when he did his 383 build. He went to the track and ran consistant 13's and couldn't figure out what was wrong. took it to get a dynotune and picked up 80rwhp. that's why I'm getting mine dynotuned this winter. I've also got a H/C car and it runs low 13's... I know that it's in the tune.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

I would definitely recheck the rockers and get it tuned on a dyno with air/fuel. Also, check the fuel pressure at WOT and make sure it's not dropping off. My friend's 383 was running slower than usual and it ended up being the fuel pump. Same thing with my old 1993 TA.

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Don't let buffman see this post Another reason why having a dyno tune is better then a mail order