Problem that I can not figure out!
I would like to know why it says learn disabled and aslo why the knock counts are so high even with the lt4 knock sensor module. I don't hear any type of noise coming from the engine. Is it supposed to be like that?

Is there anyway to confirm its the o2's before going and spending at least $100 on new ones to replace these new ones?
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take it to a mechanic and have em do a diagnostic on it, theyll plug it in and it SHOULD tell you whats up, mine was free.. but i have ***** so.... (dont go to autozone)
just out of curiosity why are you running an lt4 knock module?
take it to a mechanic and have em do a diagnostic on it, theyll plug it in and it SHOULD tell you whats up, mine was free.. but i have ***** so.... (dont go to autozone)
But I do have a question about that. If it was just the thermostat was bad, why would the car think it was -40?
And I'm running the lt4 knock sensor module because I have true duals that are pretty loud and when I first did it I was having problems. Someone suggested that it could be getting a false knock and retarding my timing and that the lt4 knock sensor module would fix it, and it did.
But I do have a question about that. If it was just the thermostat was bad, why would the car think it was -40?
And I'm running the lt4 knock sensor module because I have true duals that are pretty loud and when I first did it I was having problems. Someone suggested that it could be getting a false knock and retarding my timing and that the lt4 knock sensor module would fix it, and it did.

My car was doing the exact same thing as you explained, puttered under a light load so bad i can hear and FEEL the motor shuddering around under the hood. But when I hammered the gas she would scream like normal... how ever 20 minutes or so later at cruising speed my SES light would trigger. If i reset the PCM it would just do this all over.
So i prematurely ordered a OBD2 code reader (although im sure ill need it in the future) and im waiting on that now. Today after i work i was bored and just waned to double check everything under the hood just in case. While looking at the bundle of three hoses that come up from the DS, (The feed &return gas line and EVAP) Well the Evap has a portion of hose about 3-4 inches that bridges the hose to another hose and had corroded completely and sure enough that was my problem. I believe there is another "bridge" hose about the same length leading to the ?gas tank? directly under the driver seat on the underside...
Also, i have the ticking in the same location, how ever i have a new exhaust gasket and that will be fixed tomorrow hopefully

good luck!
-justin
My car was doing the exact same thing as you explained, puttered under a light load so bad i can hear and FEEL the motor shuddering around under the hood. But when I hammered the gas she would scream like normal... how ever 20 minutes or so later at cruising speed my SES light would trigger. If i reset the PCM it would just do this all over.
So i prematurely ordered a OBD2 code reader (although im sure ill need it in the future) and im waiting on that now. Today after i work i was bored and just waned to double check everything under the hood just in case. While looking at the bundle of three hoses that come up from the DS, (The feed &return gas line and EVAP) Well the Evap has a portion of hose about 3-4 inches that bridges the hose to another hose and had corroded completely and sure enough that was my problem. I believe there is another "bridge" hose about the same length leading to the ?gas tank? directly under the driver seat on the underside...
Also, i have the ticking in the same location, how ever i have a new exhaust gasket and that will be fixed tomorrow hopefully

good luck!
-justin
Is it possible that I might just be in need of a tune? Someone I know suggested that because I deleted all the emissions stuff, and added full exhaust and haven't tuned it. But I have had no SES light, so I don't know. I'm just getting kind of desperate at this point.
After I did heads/cam it ran fine, but I later realized it was leaning out up top. Fuel pump was crappin out, then it got REALLY noticeable. Shook alot at low rpm's then it would start to smoothen up as rpm's grew. The guage is like $35 or so. If you have a dyno in your area, hook it up to the dyno and get it tuned. Good luck!
After I did heads/cam it ran fine, but I later realized it was leaning out up top. Fuel pump was crappin out, then it got REALLY noticeable. Shook alot at low rpm's then it would start to smoothen up as rpm's grew. The guage is like $35 or so. If you have a dyno in your area, hook it up to the dyno and get it tuned. Good luck!
Oh, and I have had the emissions stuff off for almost a year. Never got ANY codes...
My car would start most of the time and run perfect. sometimes it would stumble for a bit while it was warming up. After a few weeks it got to after it would warm up it would start back firing and cutting out untill I got to about 3k rpm (that's what had me confused) and run ok? I would ride the clutch to 4k and shift into second.
I tested and or replaced all of the ignition system and finally checked the fuel pressure
Hope this helps! JohnOh one last thing you mentioned something about 2k rpm. In my car something happens at about 1800-2000rpm, It's like someone flips a switch or something and it really gets into the power, I don't know if this is common or not.





