Problem that I can not figure out!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 517
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so you say the car back fires and sputters at idle?
I just had my Camaro do that last night after i installed the motor it was missing at idle and backfiring. So i went looking around the engine and found that my COIL Plug Wire from the OPTI was not seated all the way on the COIL.
Check your wires make sure they are all seated properly and that everything is connected to where its supposed to be.
I would say its the issue i had try it!
I just had my Camaro do that last night after i installed the motor it was missing at idle and backfiring. So i went looking around the engine and found that my COIL Plug Wire from the OPTI was not seated all the way on the COIL.
Check your wires make sure they are all seated properly and that everything is connected to where its supposed to be.
I would say its the issue i had try it!
Try unplugging the o2 sensors and see if it runs better! Your o2's could be getting a false reading from an exhaust leak or they are not getting hot enough. According to your blm's being 128 should not be the case! If you do enough reading you will find many have these problems after headers swaps, mainly cammed cars w/ headers though. Also ideally you should get a tune after installing LT headers.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
so you say the car back fires and sputters at idle?
I just had my Camaro do that last night after i installed the motor it was missing at idle and backfiring. So i went looking around the engine and found that my COIL Plug Wire from the OPTI was not seated all the way on the COIL.
Check your wires make sure they are all seated properly and that everything is connected to where its supposed to be.
I would say its the issue i had try it!
I just had my Camaro do that last night after i installed the motor it was missing at idle and backfiring. So i went looking around the engine and found that my COIL Plug Wire from the OPTI was not seated all the way on the COIL.
Check your wires make sure they are all seated properly and that everything is connected to where its supposed to be.
I would say its the issue i had try it!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
Try unplugging the o2 sensors and see if it runs better! Your o2's could be getting a false reading from an exhaust leak or they are not getting hot enough. According to your blm's being 128 should not be the case! If you do enough reading you will find many have these problems after headers swaps, mainly cammed cars w/ headers though. Also ideally you should get a tune after installing LT headers.
If you saw in my previous posts I have replaced the o2's since the header swap, and the readings on the computer show they are working, could they still be bad??
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
Ok. Just an update. I had my car at a local shop today and they found that the intake manifold was leaking. I'm going to be replacing those gaskets tommorrow to see if that fixes it.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
So after all weekend of working on the intake manifold (replacing gaskets, painting it, etc.. ) AND changing ALL fluids it still does not work right. Its still doing the same thing its been doing, although it hasnt backfired real loud... yet. It was only on the road for about 10 mins afterwards.
I'm going back over to the shop I had it at last week today. The guy there said he'd help me out with it cause now its frustrating him as well.
I am done throwing parts at it, and done fixing things that "could" be the problem. I'm out of time and money to put into this car. I never thought I'd be saying stuff like this either cause I love my car, but its kicking my *** and I cant figure this out.
Anyone have any other suggestions that I should check out?
I'm going back over to the shop I had it at last week today. The guy there said he'd help me out with it cause now its frustrating him as well.
I am done throwing parts at it, and done fixing things that "could" be the problem. I'm out of time and money to put into this car. I never thought I'd be saying stuff like this either cause I love my car, but its kicking my *** and I cant figure this out.
Anyone have any other suggestions that I should check out?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
Now I'm wondering if it could be a burnt plug wired or something stupid like that. Would that cause this? I checked them a million times and they dont look burnt, but i dont like how close the boots are to the headers.
I haven't read the whole thread, but have you taken a look at your plug wires and, more specifically, your cat? If your cat is partially clogged or broken up that can cause problems.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
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First off, you say there is no emission equipment on your car at all. Go gut your cat, RIGHT NOW. That will eliminate the cat as possibly being a problem. Unhook the cat-back exhaust and slide it over. Take a long breaker bar or a long screwdriver and hammer it into the cat. Scrape the chuncks out, repeat til done. The car will sound amazing BTW.
When I swapped O2's on my car, it took about 2 or 3 days of driving before they worked good. The instant I swapped them, the car still ran like ***.
If you are worried about your car overheating, turn your defroster on. Once you turn the defroster on a fan will kick on.
I still think it is your O2's. You say the car runs great on "open loop" and then crappy after a few minutes (closed loop). If you watch the scan while your car is running in closed loop, those O2 readings will be bouncing all over the place.
35psi of fuel pressure at idle is way too low, something is wrong there. I would re-check it to be sure. It should NEVER drop below 40 for any reason.
edit* just saw your post above about the !cat
When I swapped O2's on my car, it took about 2 or 3 days of driving before they worked good. The instant I swapped them, the car still ran like ***.
If you are worried about your car overheating, turn your defroster on. Once you turn the defroster on a fan will kick on.
I still think it is your O2's. You say the car runs great on "open loop" and then crappy after a few minutes (closed loop). If you watch the scan while your car is running in closed loop, those O2 readings will be bouncing all over the place.
35psi of fuel pressure at idle is way too low, something is wrong there. I would re-check it to be sure. It should NEVER drop below 40 for any reason.
edit* just saw your post above about the !cat
Last edited by joelster; Jan 3, 2009 at 09:33 AM. Reason: saw the above post.....
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
First off, you say there is no emission equipment on your car at all. Go gut your cat, RIGHT NOW. That will eliminate the cat as possibly being a problem. Unhook the cat-back exhaust and slide it over. Take a long breaker bar or a long screwdriver and hammer it into the cat. Scrape the chuncks out, repeat til done. The car will sound amazing BTW.
When I swapped O2's on my car, it took about 2 or 3 days of driving before they worked good. The instant I swapped them, the car still ran like ***.
If you are worried about your car overheating, turn your defroster on. Once you turn the defroster on a fan will kick on.
I still think it is your O2's. You say the car runs great on "open loop" and then crappy after a few minutes (closed loop). If you watch the scan while your car is running in closed loop, those O2 readings will be bouncing all over the place.
35psi of fuel pressure at idle is way too low, something is wrong there. I would re-check it to be sure. It should NEVER drop below 40 for any reason.
edit* just saw your post above about the !cat
When I swapped O2's on my car, it took about 2 or 3 days of driving before they worked good. The instant I swapped them, the car still ran like ***.
If you are worried about your car overheating, turn your defroster on. Once you turn the defroster on a fan will kick on.
I still think it is your O2's. You say the car runs great on "open loop" and then crappy after a few minutes (closed loop). If you watch the scan while your car is running in closed loop, those O2 readings will be bouncing all over the place.
35psi of fuel pressure at idle is way too low, something is wrong there. I would re-check it to be sure. It should NEVER drop below 40 for any reason.
edit* just saw your post above about the !cat
Ok. So fuel pressure could be an issue. The reason I'm thinkin its not the o2's is because they have been in there for about 6-7 months and when hooked up to the scanner it shows that they are switching back and forth perfectly.
If the fuel pressure is the problem, is there a way to rule out the pump or the regulator so I know which of the 2 is causing it?
ive never read this thread lol, do a line test before the FPR and after, i had a problem like this and it was my FPR. no i did not read the whole thread, but what i did read just go buy a fuel pressure reg. fuel filter and pump and fininsh off you new build sorry. thats not right of me
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
ive never read this thread lol, do a line test before the FPR and after, i had a problem like this and it was my FPR. no i did not read the whole thread, but what i did read just go buy a fuel pressure reg. fuel filter and pump and fininsh off you new build sorry. thats not right of me
Why dont you go unplug your o2 sensors and see if that helps it? I know they are new but that would be something free and help eliminate something off the list. If it runs better after you unplug them then you know the problem. It will still run real rich but shouldnt pop like it is doing.
Also, a lot of the time you cant tell a plug wire is burned by looking at it. I had two that were burned on my car that i noticed one was touching a primary and the other was really really close, i changed them and my skip went away. When my plug wires were bad they would be fine until they got hot and then they wouldnt spark anymore.
-Trent
Also, a lot of the time you cant tell a plug wire is burned by looking at it. I had two that were burned on my car that i noticed one was touching a primary and the other was really really close, i changed them and my skip went away. When my plug wires were bad they would be fine until they got hot and then they wouldnt spark anymore.
-Trent
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl
Why dont you go unplug your o2 sensors and see if that helps it? I know they are new but that would be something free and help eliminate something off the list. If it runs better after you unplug them then you know the problem. It will still run real rich but shouldnt pop like it is doing.
Also, a lot of the time you cant tell a plug wire is burned by looking at it. I had two that were burned on my car that i noticed one was touching a primary and the other was really really close, i changed them and my skip went away. When my plug wires were bad they would be fine until they got hot and then they wouldnt spark anymore.
-Trent
Also, a lot of the time you cant tell a plug wire is burned by looking at it. I had two that were burned on my car that i noticed one was touching a primary and the other was really really close, i changed them and my skip went away. When my plug wires were bad they would be fine until they got hot and then they wouldnt spark anymore.
-Trent
Yeah, I would eliminate the o2s and fuel issue and go from there. I hate throwing parts at a car and wish i didnt on my car. I went through a maf, 3 sets of o2s, a coil, and an lt4 knock module before i found out i had a burnt plug wire.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: west palm beach, fl