Trying to give the wife Xmas ideas. I'm going to be swapping to a TH350 or 400 down the road once the factory one blows along with adding a stall, so whats a decent transcooler? i saw the ones at autozone and they just look like they are made for towing not racing.

 

B&M comes to mind, it was chosen by the chop that built my car.

 

i had a B&M trans cooler on the stang and it was great. as long as you are doing it go with a relatively big one. especially if running shift kit or a stall.

 

B&M makes good stuff. there are quite afew on summit and jegs. easy install and well worth it

 

Im probably going with a minimum 3200 stall on the car when i do it, so i just dont want to mess anything up. I have the B&M one on my GTO, but that has a stock trans + shift kit and 2200 stall.

 

I run a huge Hayden tranny cooler that not only is made for Mobile Homes with a GVW of like 25,000 pounds, but was only like 30 bucks. Do not have a trans temp gauge(although I plan to get a deep pan and solder a bung for one), but it has worked flawlessly with a loose 3200 stall in a H/C DD. I mounted it where the AC condensor was since I removed my AC ages ago.

It is more then enough for any stall/auto tranny combo you would put in an f-body.

EDIT:: Found the part number for it in case anyone was wondering. It is 7.5" tall and 15.5" long. "OC-1404: Heavy duty driving, Cars, trucks, class C motor homes. GVW to 22,000 lbs., 7 1/2 x 15 1/2 x 3/4".

It was the largest rated one the local Discount Auto had. At 30 bucks it was a ton cheaper then the application specific ones I found on summit. Don't waste time with small cheap ones...aftermarket stalls make a TON of heat even in our realatively light cars, and can easily require the cooling demands of a much larger vehicle.

 

So these Hayden 1404's work pretty well do they? Just got done looking at them...interesting stuff.

 

B&M 28,000 GVW here.. (20,500 BTU)

 

is this the one you guys are talking about? http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101

 

mine looks just like that one..got mine for 20 bucks at the junk yard of a ford car....

 

I ran a BE COOL trans cooler with a pusher fan on my 95 silverado with a built LT1. I never had a problem and the oil changes were clean at every 4000 miles.

 

I hear coolers are good to run while using a bigger stall...I have the stock stall in and I guess what I'm wondering is, would it benefit me to run one?

 

same deal with me, but i do plan on running a yank either 3400 or 3600ss sometime in the near future and since the thread is up i wanna figure out which would be the best for me haha

 

I just went and got the biggest one autozone carried and with a 3200 stall beating on it, my temps are below 180 all the time.

 

I wouldn't think it would hurt to run one being it helps pro-long the life of the parts. I think I'm gonna just spend the 45-50 bucks and put one in.

 

"Whats a good transcooler?"

Any oil cooler that's a plate design. Earl's coolers are like this as are many others. The ones with just tubes running back and forth are way less efficient. I'm running two Earl's coolers, oil & trans.

Not so good:



Very good:

 

B&M Supercooler Transmission Cooler 24000 GVW over here,
works great with my 4000 stall (unlocked at WOT and below 62mph at part throttle)

 

There are just a few manufacturers and a lot of brands, meaning Paul's post addressing the style of cooler is a good one. I am using a fairly small "Tru-Cool" plate style with a viscosity based bypass to try and prevent overcooling, the same exact line of coolers is sold under the B&M brand name.

The heat generated by aftermarket stalls is grossly over stated, QUALITY stalls are not so bad about this, cheap junk will make a lot of heat due to inefficiency but my experiance with Edge for example is that stock cooling is adequate, I just replaced the stock pate cooler with a smaller Tru-Cool(slightly larger height but half the thickness) because I wanted to locate it a little differently, if anything I wish it ran warmer, might hit 190 after repeated WOT blasts, takes a long time to get up over 160 in normal driving.
I had a "Level 10" 2600 stall POS that made more heat and drove worse then the 3400 Edge, that was not a high stall problem, that was a POS converter problem.
Stick with actually good companies like Edge, Yank and Vigilante and converter heat is not that big a deal.
With a non-lockup tranny I would want to make sure the cooler was good but IMO the RV coolers are a big excessive, trannies do need some heat to work right, keep them in the 160-190 range and they will be happy.


On the cooler type thing again, the plate style are built more like a radiator because that is efficient, the tube style does not expose enough of the fluid volume to the metal surface, yes they are similar to an AC condensor but condensors are built like that because it is easier to make the tubing handle the pressures the AC system sees not because it is a good design for heat exchanging, notice how much tubing is in a condensor, takes a LOT to get the job done.