95z28camaro

iTrader: (15)

Not trying to steal the thread. but where did yall get that single plane carb LT1 intake at?

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

It is a Edelbrock Vic-E EFI for a SBC....the intake pictured is on my car.




It will require either converting the intake to the LT1 bolt pattern or drilling and tapping your heads for the SBC pattern....we can supply all of the parts need for a single plane conversion except for the machine work to convert the bolt pattern. Any Local machine shop should be able to handle that for you. I suggest drilling the heads.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

like i stated in my last thread. a local speed shop owner actually sprayed 300 on his stock shortblock many times

95z28camaro

iTrader: (15)

ok cool. well i havent completely decided what i want to do just yet but if i go that route i will talk with yall first. thanks

BlownEarDrums

iTrader: (2)

I like those setups Think well be chatting in a few weeks. I'm in the process of porting my intake manifold now. After I finish it up i may just send it out to you and get it fitted with foggers and noids. The motor will be built up with a forged rotating assy.This wont be on a stock motor. Even a 300 shot would be good. I just want room to expand and all the kits I saw were maxing out at 250, 600, and 1200. Figure I'd run a 300 and then 400 or so for close races..

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

give us a shout when you are ready...we got ya' covered

buffman

iTrader: (9)

what kind of converter are you running since you don't mention in your sig

BlownEarDrums

iTrader: (2)

TC and Tranny are stock as of now. Sig is outdated. After this one goes Ill be putting in a built 4l80 with a stall matched to the cam I choose...

BlownEarDrums

iTrader: (2)

Off the top of your head do you know what the 2 NX kits pictured would cost installed?

buffman

iTrader: (9)

I was going to say you'll need a good converter. Edge, Yank, Vig are three very wise choices.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

Take the quote listed above and add the rail upgrade to it....that would use our direct port system.

The NX kit would run a couple hundred dollars more.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

A 400 shot should easily get a b-body into the 9s if the rest of the car is done right. Using Eagle and Scat is NOT done right either.

Just something to consider when you start talking about how much nitrous you want to use.

BlownEarDrums

iTrader: (2)

Well I'm still shopping around and gathering info. Any parts you'd recommend?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If looking for "budget" parts the Compstar stuff is a good value, not the cheapest but better machining than the chinese machined stuff. This stuff is forged overseas and machined by Callies, good compromise of cost and quality.

If you want to go outright cheap use Scat they seem to have fewer QC issues than Eagle.

Really IMO a 300 shot should get a b-body into the 9s, that is what Jorge used to get his Impala into the 9s first but these days we have much better topends to choose from so it should be a good bit easier today. Wish I had the budget to prove that opinion, but I don't.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

There's a lot of rather inaccurate information being spread in this thread. If you would like to spray a 400-600 shot you are going to need to do a few things. The first would be building a bottom end to handle the amount of nitrous you plan on spraying. Despite popular belief eagle makes good stuff for the budget minded individual. In building the bottom end you want to keep in mind the compression height of your pistons. If I was to build a nitrous LT1 I would do as follows:

- Eagle forged 3.875 stroke crank
- Eagle 5.7 rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts
- Custom pistons with nitrous in mind. Using the 5.7 rod or a 6.0 keeps the pistons compression height up and the pin further down in the piston.
- File to fit rings
- ARP head studs. At minimum I would use ARP2000. If you live in an arid environment with little salt exposure I would use ARP L19. The L19 material is subject to hydrogen embrittlement. They supply a special lubricant with them and you are not to touch them with your bare fingers. If you want the added clamping force and don't mind shelling out some money get a set of ARP Aged 625 head studs cut. They have a greater clamping force than the L19 and are not subject to hydrogen embrittlement.
- Main studs
- Aftermarket cylinder heads with a thick deck
- Spot on amazing tune

That's the bare minimum. From there you have to address other items such as the valvetrain, intake, and exhaust system. It all works as a combo.

Ray did you guys weld on the bosses for the nozzles in this picture?

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Hmmmmm alot of good information on here... I don't know how many ppl on here have actually sprayed 400hp thru their LT1's. I have on the dyno and would have at the track but we can't keep the car off the bumper on the 300 shot. Also keep in mind I'm running a plate system. My motor was built for a 500 shot and can handle that much power if need be... But i wouldn't do it with a plate just because of distribution reasons.....

My car made 811 RWHP on a 300 shot..... I won't say what it made on the 400hp hit because we're keeping it to ourselves until we track test it but let's just say it was amazingly loud and violent.... Plugs looked great. not an issue at all....

But let's address what it would take to do so safely without hurting something bad.... first rotating assy. At the point of 300 and above I don't think you should be dealing with Eagle. AFAIK it's an overseas (read china) forging and I wouldnt' trust those rods at those power levels.... Some may disagree and that is your right but if it was me I think you have moved to a whole different level of parts to safely spray that much juice. Beaflag's post pointed out that popular belief is that they don't make quality stuff but they do for the budget minded individual and he is right..... HOWEVER, when you are going to spray a 400 shot or more you have clearly moved your racing "program" past the budget area. You can build a motor to live behind a 300 shot and have it be an economy motor. 300+, 400, 500 or more and you are looking at purpose built bullets designed to safely handle the massive cylinder pressures associated with those shots. For me I've realized that my Engine program and racing program altogether has moved beyond me wanting to save money. So while I agree I disagree when it comes to eagle and why you would use those parts. If you're building a budget motor stay away from the 400hp jets.. LOL

Heads with a thicker deck will be needed and mandatory. so guys with LT1 OEM heads that have been ported need not apply. AFR's, TFS, or something with a thicker deck will be needed. At a minimum for rods and cranks I would look at Oliver, Callies, or Lunati. An aluminum rod at this point would also be great. I run billet steel oliver rods with the bolt upgrade. I run a lunati billet steel crank. I wouldn't run Scat and i wouldn't run eagle....

Also at this point you need a custom piston with a massive ring land. Along the lines of a 300 top ring. It will limit the length of rod you can use unless you get rid of the spirolox and use buttons. this is what I did. I run a 6" rod with pistons without spirolox. the channel for the spirolox cuts into the meat of the piston. i use a press-in button that the bore holds when the pistons is dropped into the bore. you will need great head gaskets like cometic. O ringing is a good idea but not super necessary. i didn't o-ring mine. Head studs mandatory..... Pro series studs most likely.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I LOVE That setup ... once I get the 383 tuned properly and the rear end
beefed up ... that's exactly where I'd like to go.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I have seen guys with loose tolerance race motors happy with Eagle, and I have seen more guys with tight street motors have them self destruct due to using sloppy machinists who never caught the bad machinework of the Eagle stuff. I mean come on, the stock special pilot bushings because they could not get that right, not a one off occurance, common enough they stock bandaid parts.

Eagle can work, but with the kind of money spent to do a build like this the extra few hundred dollars on better parts is cheap insurance.

Far as stock castings, seems to me a turbo car made more than 1000rwhp with stock castings, would think it takes a good bit of cylinder pressure to reach that number.
I will agree someting like the Trickflows would be a better idea but that doesn't mean a GM casting can't work.

I will say I have not run nitrous, never even touched a bottle, but I am not offering any real nitrous info, just observation on parts.

I see guys brag about a 300 shot and run high 10s yet another guy runs low 11s with a 150 shot on a bolton car??????? Which guy would you listen too?? IMO the guy with the low 11 second bolton+small shot guy has a LOT better info to offer even if the car is technically slower. That comment is NOT in reference to anyone here just a warning to consider who you listen too.

OUTLAW's car running mid 9s at 130mph confirms the "shutting down early" statement and says there is a good bit left in the car. 1.1 seconds ahead of NA time but just 2mph, will be interesting to see a full pass. Definetely refering too him.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

here let me show you what happens to a stock converter on what would have been a 660+ RWHP pull



you see that big dipp? yeah that is the Stock converter coming un-glued and Ballooning over a 1/4 inch!

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

well one point is turbo vs nitrous..... we all know how that battle goes. Two ENTIRELY different animals..... Turbo's make power that is linear. Nitrous makes power instantaneous regardless of RPM. Cylinder pressure does not build it just "HAPPENS" unlike a turbo. A 1000RWHP nitrous LT1 is an entirely different animal than a 1000RWHP Turbo LT1.... It does take a good bit of pressure to make those #'s for sure.... We'd need to know everyone who has tried it and count how many ppl blew head gaskets or lifted heads versus the handful of ppl who have successfully done it. My adage is for every success story there is 10 dudes with blown motors...

I see the same thing..... many will talk about it.... few will actually do it.... other than myself there is Tony Shep, taner, the guy from Colorado with the carb'd LT1.... Vince..... Dave Diluca (although he passed away unfortunately) RIP Dave... you have a good bit of ppl who have run very large shots.....

As as far as my pass it was a funny pass. I wish I had it on video. Our plan was to shut the car down after the 1/8th mile. we were grudgeracing a car that night and all their camp was in the stands "spectating" . Their car had no cage so the whole night they were making 1/8 mile passes. So we decided to play the game and make an 1/8 mile pass. That's the reason nobody recorded it. Figuring I wouldn't set a new best shutting it down at 660' and coasting to the finish...

Car comes out hard on about 150hp, nose starts reaching for the sky. I pedal it to bring it back down. goes 1.38 60' time BUT since I pedaled the car the XFI turned the nitrous off and then reset the timer for the progression up to 300hp. so instead of us having full power at 1.4 seconds in we didn't have full power until 2.5 seconds in (all based off of our datalog)..... Car still went 6.055 in the 1/8 mile.... By the time I realized and the adrenaline started wearing off I realized I had already passed the 1/8 mile and I lifted at 800' out (my chassis guy was my spotter) and coasted the rest of the way. result 9.54@130....... The 1/8 mile however is not super accurate either since the nitrous shut off and reset the progressive. it was as if the entire program restarted when the TPS dropped to below 75% for an instant..... I'm thinking if we ramped up to 300hp at 1.4 seconds in we would have had an additional 1.1 seconds at 300hp versus 150 and climbing..... Probably resulting in a 5.80 sumthing pass at 120+ in the 1/8th..... she's there, she just needs to keep the nose low.... LOL