How do you preoil a fresh engine?
12-10-2008, 03:22 PM
#1
How do you preoil a fresh engine? I am just finishing up my forged 355 build. The book I am using, Small-Block Chevy LT-1/LT-4 Engines by Mavrigian, recommends preoiling the engine. He mentions a pressurized oiling cannister.
I Googled it, and found a patent submission for such a system, but could not find one being marketed.
I then searched all the applicable forums here for preoil and found nothing.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
I Googled it, and found a patent submission for such a system, but could not find one being marketed.
I then searched all the applicable forums here for preoil and found nothing.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
12-10-2008, 03:26 PM
#2
Use a conventional SBC oil priming tool assuming the motor is out of the car. It goes in where the oil pump drive stub goes.
In the car you can use the pressure tool or turn the motor over to build pressure. Even better to do this with the spark plugs pulled.
In the car you can use the pressure tool or turn the motor over to build pressure. Even better to do this with the spark plugs pulled.
12-10-2008, 05:47 PM
#3
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I am wondering about this also. I had pulled the engine from the top, with no problems. I was however considering putting the new engine back from underneath. I have to put in my tubular k also, so why not? Say you pre oil the engine on the stand, how long will it stay oiled? I am curios how much time you have before most of the oil runs back into pan.
My dillema is if I go from the bottom, I will have the intake on already, which means I will need to pre oil on stand with drill.
My dillema is if I go from the bottom, I will have the intake on already, which means I will need to pre oil on stand with drill.
12-10-2008, 06:54 PM
#5
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re I just pull the wire from the opti to the coil and turn it over until the oil pressure gauges reads over 30. plug the wire back in and break the motor in like I will drive it......HARD
12-10-2008, 07:59 PM
#6
This is really only done on cars with distributor holes you can get to right before you start the car.
WIth an LT1 you cant do that, so its not a good idea to prime the engine and take upwards of 2 days installing it.
Did you put plenty of assembly lube on the bearings, cam, lifters etc? If so when you prime it its going to push all that good thick lube into the oil pan and the oil that takes its place will do the same in the time it takes to install the engine.
FIll the oil filter up to the top, spin it on and crank the engine.
Accusump makes a deal like what your talking about, primarily used to prelube on cold starts and to save the engine in a race situation if the oil pump fails.
WIth an LT1 you cant do that, so its not a good idea to prime the engine and take upwards of 2 days installing it.
Did you put plenty of assembly lube on the bearings, cam, lifters etc? If so when you prime it its going to push all that good thick lube into the oil pan and the oil that takes its place will do the same in the time it takes to install the engine.
FIll the oil filter up to the top, spin it on and crank the engine.
Accusump makes a deal like what your talking about, primarily used to prelube on cold starts and to save the engine in a race situation if the oil pump fails.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-10-2008 at 08:05 PM.
12-10-2008, 08:10 PM
#7
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This is really only done on cars with distributor holes you can get to right before you start the car.
WIth an LT1 you cant do that, so its not a good idea to prime the engine and take upwards of 2 days installing it.
Did you put plenty of assembly lube on the bearings, cam, lifters etc? If so when you prime it its going to push all that good thick lube into the oil pan and the oil that takes its place will do the same in the time it takes to install the engine.
FIll the oil filter up to the top, spin it on and crank the engine.
Accusump makes a deal like what your talking about, primarily used to prelube on cold starts and to save the engine in a race situation if the oil pump fails.
WIth an LT1 you cant do that, so its not a good idea to prime the engine and take upwards of 2 days installing it.
Did you put plenty of assembly lube on the bearings, cam, lifters etc? If so when you prime it its going to push all that good thick lube into the oil pan and the oil that takes its place will do the same in the time it takes to install the engine.
FIll the oil filter up to the top, spin it on and crank the engine.
Accusump makes a deal like what your talking about, primarily used to prelube on cold starts and to save the engine in a race situation if the oil pump fails.
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12-10-2008, 08:11 PM
#8
You really should prime it on the stand to get all the air out of the oiling system. I can take a good 3-5 minutes of priming sometimes. Once you do that you can put the intake on and proceed to putting it in the car. Once in the car you can kill spark and fuel and crank it over to give it a quick prime. The main concern is that all of the air is out of the oiling system.
When you initally start priming a pressure gauge will still show good oil pressure even with air in the system. If you were to start the engine and run it some parts would not be getting oil momentarily.
When you initally start priming a pressure gauge will still show good oil pressure even with air in the system. If you were to start the engine and run it some parts would not be getting oil momentarily.
12-10-2008, 08:15 PM
#9
You really should prime it on the stand to get all the air out of the oiling system. I can take a good 3-5 minutes of priming sometimes. Once you do that you can put the intake on and proceed to putting it in the car. Once in the car you can kill spark and fuel and crank it over to give it a quick prime. The main concern is that all of the air is out of the oiling system.
When you initally start priming a pressure gauge will still show good oil pressure even with air in the system. If you were to start the engine and run it some parts would not be getting oil momentarily.
When you initally start priming a pressure gauge will still show good oil pressure even with air in the system. If you were to start the engine and run it some parts would not be getting oil momentarily.
When I do mine as described above, it gets oil pressure immediately. ANd even if it didnt theres plenty of lube to keep it happy till it does.
You prime it on the stand, push all the assembly lube out of the bearings, take 2 days to get the motor in and running(this is usually a minimum, often 3-4 days) you think that system is gonna STAY primed? After you pushed all the assembly lube into the pan?
Im just sayin
12-10-2008, 10:21 PM
#11
You prime it on the stand, push all the assembly lube out of the bearings, take 2 days to get the motor in and running(this is usually a minimum, often 3-4 days) you think that system is gonna STAY primed? After you pushed all the assembly lube into the pan?
You think all the oil just disappears? 
12-11-2008, 05:35 AM
#14
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We used like an old distributor gear or something for mine from a SBC. Put a drill on it, mechanical gauge in the oil sending unit hole, and fired the drill up. Started the car 30~ hours later. My builder said never start the engine before priming it.
12-15-2008, 04:47 PM
#18
IF you have the motor out with intake off rent borrow or make a tool to do it. I made one out of a 4.3 plastic distrubutor. masterlube.net makes a neat device. Which I own 2 of. IT is a preluber accumulator. You can pressureize then engine prior to start up and then if you switch it to on position. It will shoot oil in the motor if it senses a drop in oil pressure. And if it is in the car already then the spark plug idea is the best because it will spin over easy.
