multmigs

iTrader: (2)

Whats the cost involved in "budget" LE heads? I'm in the same situation having a stock bottom end motor that had a Hotcam put in it years ago along with the rest of the LT4 package which was all the rage back then, I'm taking my motor out to do some cleanup and trans swap, I'm going to have the intake and headers off anyway if I could stay to $1000 or less I'd like to do something for the heads but I can't get into another cam swap and the full blown LE2 or better yet aftermarket stuff??

joeZ96

iTrader: (3)

The hotcam was already in there and since we thought keeping it would still hit my goals, we saved some money and effort and left it alone when we did the heads and intake. I think cam-only numbers exceeding 350+ with any cam is the exception rather than the rule, especially running through a bigger converter, cats and 12-bolt, and I highly doubt that 503 runs anywhere as smooth as the hotcam on the street. I bet most people wouldn't be any the wiser if I told them I was still running the stock cam.

If you are doing a cam anyway or are building a new short block, then yes, absolutely give Lloyd a call and see what he can spec out for you. Otherwise, if you have the hotcam installed and running well already, and you think you can still hit your goals with it, then why not install a good set of heads and intake. I'll take a look at the cam when it's time for a new short block.

BlackLT1Z

iTrader: (11)

Jumping from LE1 heads to LE2 heads with that cam will not give you 25rwhp. You'll be looking at about 380rwhp with a smaller cam.

BlackLT1Z

iTrader: (11)

If you are wanting to do a smaller cam that passes emission and makes good USABLE power then you will want the CC503, Crane227, GM 846... The HOTCAM was all the rage years ago... companies have designed far better cams. Definitely get something that will work within the best areas of the heads you choose. LE1 heads are more than enough for a HOTCAM.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I understand some of what your saying, but from what i'm reading, you only gained 8 rwhp from the head/intake swap, sence you said with just the cam-only exceeded 350+ rwhp, if thats all i'll get from a head/intake swap, thats not too good is it?? According to Lloyd himself, the hot-cam will not make the #s of the 503, LLoyd had a cam spec'd out that was worth 10 & 10 over the 503 & was very streetable, this was with STOCK heads, his budget heads are worth 30 rwhp, the 503 is by far not a radical cam, especially on a 112, its very streetable, & not that noticable behind an M6. Theres nothing wrong with exceeding ones goals, but if someone is in the market for a head/cam package, the hotcam is basically an entry level cam thats been around awhile, But it is still a tad small for even a stock head, so why would you invest in a good set of heads & not put in a decent cam, but i see what your saying when you were exsperimenting, but i'll bet if you install a GOOD cam with those LE2 heads, the #s will sore.

joeZ96

iTrader: (3)

My car never saw close to 350 on the dyno cam-only. On the dyno I was only seeing around 308 cam-only years ago. The latest dyno with the LE2 heads and intake was 358, so I picked up 50 which I think is a nice gain.

Otherwise, I completely agree with you. The hotcam went in over 8 years ago. If I was doing a cam today, would I chose the hotcam, probably not as I agree, Lloyd can come with up some specs that will be just as driveable as the hotcam but put up much better numbers. And I agree, I left some good numbers on the table and it was hard to turn down, but I chose to leave the hotcam and so far, no regrets.

The only reason I posted in this thread was because the original question was what is a good head for the hotcam so I thought I would post my results. This thread has now become what is the best head/cam package, so I will gracefully back out.

Will these hotcam discussions ever end...

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

The Hotcam is good for what it is, and just may not suit everybody's goals. I think way too many people get caught up in the 'gotta have a custom cam/cam of the day to get the most power', which is true a majority of the time, but some of those same people won't get their junk running right in the first place. A well running Hotcam/head car will surprise a lot of you and for someone looking for a cam easy on parts and completely emmission friendly with any test in any state, it is hard to beat.

baylove

iTrader: (35)

im leaving my hot cam in and doing a lil intake and head porting 150 shot 373 gears and a stall i will be happy with that for now

Tapout97

iTrader: (1)

No offense thats slow for what you have done.... with bolt ons 357 and lt4 im putting 341 @ wheels in 12's not bragging....i just wanted to say what ive done which isnt to far off from you....its the luck of the draw ..all motors are differnt from factory i personally test 3 brand new lt1 my friends bought all autos same tires and mods and all 3 put differnt times at the track if your all about at the track...me im a street racer.....i didnt notice if you car was a4 m6 if its a4 STALL bigger gears long tubes no cats possible porting the heads around 1000 bucks it pays off...... GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CAR BRO

pyro719

iTrader: (5)

Yea I agree my car is slow! I was thinking it would run a little faster too but people have said my times are normal for my altitude 6500 da that day.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

that is not bad with DA like that....my buddy brought his car to colorado when he moved there and when he brought it to the mile high track it ran 13.3s and he said people flocked to him saying how awesome his car is and all that time he was saying it only ran 13s but in houston the car runs 11.8......

pyro719

iTrader: (5)

According to an altitude correction calculator my car will run 12.859 @ 106 @ sea level

Rob

iTrader: (6)

Very true. I ran the HOT cam in my 96 WS6 with stock heads. Only the springs and rockers(1.6 Crane Golds) were changed. Had SLP shorties for my dual cats. Borla/SLP catback, 4.10 gears, etc. The usual bolt ons.

Don't know what it put down when I sold it in 2000, but it ran 12.4@111. Passed emissions and ran great. Surprised a lot of people back then.

Kevin97ss

I agree totally. I ran the time in my sig, wich may not be all that impressive untill you realize it weighed 3800lbs.

pyro719

iTrader: (5)

Rob and Kevin, What were your altitudes with those times? I think there something wrong with my car to be only running 14.0? Maybe its the 145,000 miles on it? or tune? Something has got to be up with it? I just got a cable the other day so I can scan the car for codes now. Im gonna do that and see if anything is wrong sensor wise. My Buddy has a bolt on ls1 car running 13.80 @ 102 mph I would think I should be able to beat him with my mods

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

Well said. My take on the Hotcam issue is this. It's not a bad cam at all, and if someone doesn't have the money for a better one I would still go with the LE2s if possible.

Kevin97ss

I run at E-town which is about 60ft above sea level. I never calculated the DA for the runs in my sig but I can tell you the weather conditions.
58 degrees, 68% humidity, Baro 30.27.

You said the DA was 6500, do you mean your static altitude is 6500ft?

Rob

iTrader: (6)

That run was at MIR which is 30' above sea level, not 100% but close to that.

Could be tune. Could be its too tired with all those miles. Could be altitude and temp. Scan the car and see what's up. I used to tune with LT1 Edit. Don't know what is out there now though.

pyro719

iTrader: (5)

The elevation at my track is 4700 ft, it was 76 degrees that day

Kevin97ss

Ok, so its still a long ways up.

Could be a combination of poor ring seal and knock retard. Poor ring seal will bleed off cylinder pressure and allow some oil into the chamber which pre-ignites.

Could be production variance in the heads/intake, or cam timing.

Really it could be alot of things combined or a few larger issues or simple as the weather on that particular day. DA can't account for every aspect of weather that day and the calculation to sea level is only close.