LT1 engine bay cleanup
#21
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
#23
TECH Apprentice
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#24
#26
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (32)
get a line lock and buy 2 new brake lines to bend up. 1 new one from the master to the line lock, out of the line lock to a T fitting that runs to your 2 front lines. The other new line from the master to a coupler that ties in to the rear brakes. Pretty simple if ure mechanically inclined. I have some pretty detailed pics if u guys want um.
#27
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
get a line lock and buy 2 new brake lines to bend up. 1 new one from the master to the line lock, out of the line lock to a T fitting that runs to your 2 front lines. The other new line from the master to a coupler that ties in to the rear brakes. Pretty simple if ure mechanically inclined. I have some pretty detailed pics if u guys want um.
#29
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (32)
just makes it eaiser and just good to do while your doing it. It be like changing your oil and not putting a new filter on. Heres a pic, you can see how it route from the master, IN the line lock and OUT to the T fitting for the 2 front brake lines. And the rear is just a cupler fitting. A lot of people say you need a porp. valve but i dont have one and used my brakes HARD city driving on slicks n skinnies and never had one problem with tires locking up. Glad i didnt waste the time and money to put on in.
#31
Yes. And it isn't needed... it's just a good time to put one on if you ever planned on it. If you don't want a line-lock, then it's a waste of time and money. I never plan on running slicks, I'll never need a line-lock. I can foot brake it just fine.
I used....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
except I bought the summit branded one (Jegs had one also). Although, it looks like SSBC offers them in various fitting sizes. It has a single in, dual out for the front so you do not need a T-fitting.
I personally want a prop valve no matter what, cause I'll be running different brakes and want the adjustability and to be able to tune it for road racing/AutoX.
EDIT: The prop valve I linked is a dual inlet, dual outlet.... not sure if that's a typo. Mine was dual inlet (front/rear), and three outlets (Front Right, Front left, Rear). Looks like they may be expanding their line... they only offered a few when I was looking.
I used....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
except I bought the summit branded one (Jegs had one also). Although, it looks like SSBC offers them in various fitting sizes. It has a single in, dual out for the front so you do not need a T-fitting.
I personally want a prop valve no matter what, cause I'll be running different brakes and want the adjustability and to be able to tune it for road racing/AutoX.
EDIT: The prop valve I linked is a dual inlet, dual outlet.... not sure if that's a typo. Mine was dual inlet (front/rear), and three outlets (Front Right, Front left, Rear). Looks like they may be expanding their line... they only offered a few when I was looking.
Last edited by chevy42083; 12-28-2008 at 08:05 AM.
#34
I just didn't want to buy and plumb a prop valve and a T-fitting, I thought it would look better all in one unit. Really just personal preference... I mention the valve that I have because most people have never heard of it.