Here's a couple more pictures I took earlier while I was changing the oil in the car. Also, the couplers that I used, were just the rubber couplers that came in my CRT intake elbow kit. I really wish that I could find an LT1 WS6 Ram Air smooth bellows though. It's a pain in the ass trying to get the rubber coupler to go from the TB to the MAF, since the TB's oval, and the MAF is round.
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/7...1081610my7.jpg
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/8...1081611lh3.jpg
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/1...1081612wk9.jpg

It's not bad looking, you have the right idea.

Personally IMO you need to support the Radiator and cover up the gaps.

Yeah, I'm going to try and finish it up this weekend. I need to get a thin sheet of metal to make the radiator cover out of, and also find something to fab up some radiator supports too. I'm sure I'll think of something. I think I may have found a new couple to run from the TB to the MAF too. It's the C4 Vette power coupler. (http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...dept%5Fid=1758) The price seems a little outrageous though, for just a rubber coupler. I'm thinking, with how long that piece is, I may be able to do away with the coupler between the lid and the MAF. Then, just have the MAF going into the lid, like on LS1's. Then, it won't look so bad with the orange couplers.

Yea, it's expensive, but that is what this stuff costs, no way around it.

I highly doubt you honestly would gain 2 tenths or 20 hp just from that swap . Like posted too much comes into play at the track, u would have to do a back to back dyno run on the same day..To the thread starter I did just the opposite :lol:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...nj/GrnLT13.jpg

here is mine. i tried to make it not look like a hack job and something a little custom.

https://i204.photobucket.com/albums/...c/P1010017.jpg
https://i204.photobucket.com/albums/...c/P1010018.jpg
https://i204.photobucket.com/albums/...c/P1010019.jpg

where do you get the coupling that goes from the lt1 TB to the maf?

What is the piece that the lid sets on?

^^Radiator Delete there..lol

It looks like a thin piece of metal, and looks like he cut into the Core Support like I did.

LOL, so tell me this does a DYNO give you forced air at speed? NO it does not
does a DYNO give you a time slip NO it does not. so in all actuality racing the car down the track is the truth in what a car is producing.
how many cars have you seen DYNO high and run like crap at the track,i have friends that live on the dyno every change they make they hit the rollers it is a tunning instrument!
personally i do not care what you or anyone else says about the gain many people here have done it with similar results so that now turns the mod gain into a fact!
RAMAIR= path of least resistance,direct also means higher velocity

Exactly. I've noticed a gain from it, I cut-out the Fog Light holes more so I could get more air into that area. It works well.

I would agree the track would be the best test.

ET wise is hard to go by, but MPH doesn't lie

Yes sir,i went from 103.6 to 105.20 and the lid was the newest mod yes my car is a full interior,pleather interior car 3540 on the scales w/me in it...

I could careless also bro I have an LS1. What some guys says he ran i dont even know on a board or what his assometer was pegged at doesnt prove much either...Lets get GMHTP on this.

its a piece of flat stock that i bent in the brake to hole the raditor in place like the foctory piece. i made a tray that sits down into the support so the stock ss hood clears. i cut into the upper radiator support and welded it all back and boxed it in so it looks factory.

I did it. I used the stock bottom from an LS1, SLP lid and a C4 vett TB to MAS. Looks clean and factory! I get all kinds of compliments! as far as track times, don't know. It did seem to pull more!

There is no ram air effect from where the lid sits at the top of the radiator/condensor.

Also a quick look at a data log for anyone will tell them if they are pulling any vacuum up top. Even if there was a 10hp gain I hardly think it justifies letting all that unfiltered air into the motor, especially with how much dirt/debris the air dam picks up.

Where did anyone here say they aren't running a filter.... This is exactly like an LS1 setup. No unfiltered air has been getting into these guys motors. I'm sure they aren't borderline retarded.

I put in the go go fast motr..dur..:shiner:



I'm running a Filter, I think everyone is with the Lid, so how is un-filtered Air getting in?

never said anything about running w/o an air filter
the air dam under the core support shoots air up to the filter as well as the intended area(the radiator) so i would classify that as being a ramair yes it may just be a loose terminology but i will be damned if it does not work.....

like i stated earlier,there are people that have ACTUALLY done this mod and have had POSITIVE results above the CAI so if one has not done this mod they are fighting over baseless claims of their own admission..... BTW gm had every opportunity to use the same air induction that was offered on the Lt1 when building the Ls1 but they did not. why? one may ask!!!!!! i will just sit back and wait for the next post about why the lid either sucks in hot air from the radiator or something stupid like that from yet another person that has not any experience with this mod......LOL