i am in the process of trying to put together a 383 stroker.....i was wondering if i can use lt1 connecting rods with this build the only reason i am not buying some h-beams or i-beams is cause i have a good set in my garage. so i was thinking of piecing a kit together.

 

I believe the lt1 has the same bottom end as a regular 1 piece rear main seal sbc, so they should work, but then again Ive never built an lt1 bottom end so im not 100% sure.

 

i have a 2 piece rear main seal..... plus i was under the impression that the lt1's connecting rods where a little shorter, thanks for the reply...

 

Lt1 connecting rods are 5.7 inch.... I don't think they will lend to your 383 much.

 

same size as these right.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...QQcmdZViewItem

 

You certainly can use them, I would have them reconditioned though particularly if going over 6000rpms with this engine.

Actually if it is a 94 or earlier LT1 it probably has "pink" rods which are a forged rod first used in the early 70s in the LT-1.

 

thank you.....

 

as long as you dont have a 383 crank that uses a 6in rod your good

 

^ It's not the crank that dictates what length rod you need to use it is the piston.

 

With a short rod you can run into counterweight clearance issues, that is why 01fireturd made the comment he did, it is a valid point.

 

...and the later ones have a PM (powdered metal) rod that is supposed to be even stronger.

 

Plenty of people are using a 5.7 inch rod with a 3.75 stroke crank. Most power adder people do to keep the compression height up on the piston. As long as you have a competent machine shop I don't see a problem.

 

I have used a 5.7 and a 6.0 rod on the same crank, you need to just re balance the crank with the rest of the rotating mass. The 6.0 are better for higher revs, but the 5.7 i used before were fine to 6000 till a hyper junk piston let go eventually.

 

the rods will work
and the lt1 rods (either set up) were actually a pretty nice piece
but like said just be carefull in your piston selection
i personally like the 5.7 rod combo because you can get pistons made with a much thicker top ring land so you can spray alot at it

 

Yes balance comes into play but so does skit to counterwieght clearance. Using a 6" rod on a crank meant for 5.7 will always be fine clearance wise, using a 5.7" rod on a crank meant for a 6" might not be. Clearance issue becomes possible at bottom dead center if that helps you picture what I am saying.

My point in saying the early LT1s had "pink" rods was not about a strength debate it was just to highlight the fact the LT1 and gen 1 are highly interchangable for a LONG time back.

 

i have several sets of PM and pink rods im saving jsut in case i decide to BS around with something one day

 

i believe these are the ones that i have........

also 3.75 crank i should be fine correct......

 

if you have a piston for the 3.75 crank, and the 5.7 rod, your set.
if its for a 6" rod, then you will have issues, piston will be too far down in the bore.
a 6" rod gives the best rod ratio, and the angle of the rod to piston isnt as bad as the 5.7.
stock rods will need to be clearance for the cam, and block needs to be clearance.
make sure entire rotating assembly is balanced.

but yes, an LT1 is a SBC, it uses a standard 1pc seal SBC crank, rods, pistons, cam, lifters, retainers, spider plate, oil pan.

aaron

 

 

1 piece rear main seal.

all SBCs built from 1986 and older used a 2 piece rear main seal, and flat tappet cams.
all SBCs built from 1987 to 2000 used a 1 piece rear main seal, and hydraulic roller cams, including the LT1.

aaron