LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

The great oil debate

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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 03:11 AM
  #21  
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I run brad penn

What quite a few dirt track racers, and (other types of racers) use. Builder told me mobil 1/other oils had to take alot of the zinc out and now normal oil runs a lot hotter, so they switched to brad penn and things are great again.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:07 AM
  #22  
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Actually what buffman says, yes synthetics have an edge over conventional oils for withstanding more heat and the less friction but how much, Its like those octane boosters, they say gives an added 3 points of octane. People think that 91 will turn into 93 octane when it is really .3 91 to 91.3. worthless.On my dads van, granted not high performance, changes his oil every 3000 miles with what ever is on sale, He put app 494,000 miles on his last van,Yes almost half of a million miles, no oil smoke, still ran ok..His second van had 289,000 miles until he wrecked it. Just as said, if you change your oil at set intervals, but use a good filter, even conventional oils will do. As far as castrol, I have tore down high performance motors with high mileage and the internals were absolutely clean, no sludge. I have did the same with Mobil 1 and there was some sludge build up. I ran a supercharged LT1 that made 648 RWHP, I used to use RP but with then just started using good ole castrol. Tore my engine down, granted it was low mileage, but again it was spotless in the valley area. So take it with a grain of salt, If you feel comfortable and can afford the oil of your choice, then go ahead and use it. If you are not sure, do not go by all the "Hype" on a set brand...For extra comfort, don't know if Bob still does this, but you can send him your oil and he will analyze it for you.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:33 AM
  #23  
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Thanks everyone, I think next time I'm by Autozone I'll see if mine carries German Castrol.
Yeah my oil change never exceeds 4k miles typically won't get past 3.5k.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:08 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bombebomb
I run brad penn

What quite a few dirt track racers, and (other types of racers) use. Builder told me mobil 1/other oils had to take alot of the zinc out and now normal oil runs a lot hotter, so they switched to brad penn and things are great again.
we don't run flat tappet cams, we don't need all that zinc.. My LT1 with no oil cooler (factory offset adapter) will HIT MAX oil temps of 250* in the HOT *** summer at 80+mph extended driving.

moehp, its more than that. comparing those octane boosters to the conventional vs synthetic thing is far off. A synthetic oil is a lot better than conventional. However I said no one oil will perform the same in different engines. That's why it pays to do a UOA
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:27 AM
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I actually talked to a guy at checker who is a complete brain. He knows evrything about any oil. He said that rp is crap. He even explained why and had all the tests to prove it. He also said that valvoline synthetic is the only oil that he would ever use in any engine. He even knew exactly how the different steps are taken in production of synthedic vs. generic oils. I cant even remember all this info he told me but he definately knows his ****.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 01:06 AM
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Okay my motor has had crap oil in it since day 1 of it being rebuilt
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 01:13 AM
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Even Mobil 1 is expensive at about $8 per quart, don't get how you guys are saying, "no way would I pay $10 per quart, but $8, sure!".... I've started running valvoline 10w30 at the recommendation of my motor builders to run a thicker than stock oil after the rebuild.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 01:30 AM
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I'm going to keep using Royal Purple 10w30 I haven't had any problems with it. It's changed every 3k miles anyways and I always use a K&N gold filter. Oh and, i've pulled the oil pan off and everything is spotless. No sludge, no nothing.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
I actually talked to a guy at checker who is a complete brain. He knows evrything about any oil. He said that rp is crap. He even explained why and had all the tests to prove it. He also said that valvoline synthetic is the only oil that he would ever use in any engine. He even knew exactly how the different steps are taken in production of synthedic vs. generic oils. I cant even remember all this info he told me but he definately knows his ****.

Not to be an "azzhat", but if the guy is that brilliant, what's he doing behind the counter at Checker, for $9-10 an hour??
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 08:49 AM
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The guy taught quantum physics and had his own speed shop. Then he went through a divorce and she took evrything. He moved away from her and basically just started life over. So he doesent actually need the money, he just does it to stay busy so he doesent start drinking. Kinda sad, but hes got pictures and stuff from builds and its actually true. So take it or leav it, I just know that I myself know my stuff and he confuses me half the time.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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Yeh Bob is the oil guy is a great site.

I run Shell Rotella T in my solid roller LT1, mostly because of fuel washdown. The cam overlap at idle is a problem.


I have read good things about Wal Marts "Tech" series of oils. I Almost tried it last time.

I will run the Rotella Synthetic in the hotrod next oil change.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc3.4V6
Even Mobil 1 is expensive at about $8 per quart, don't get how you guys are saying, "no way would I pay $10 per quart, but $8, sure!".... I've started running valvoline 10w30 at the recommendation of my motor builders to run a thicker than stock oil after the rebuild.
Check out what is in this link. Way more info on oil you probably didn't know existed.

10w30 is only thicker than 5w30 when cold.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
The guy taught quantum physics and had his own speed shop. Then he went through a divorce and she took evrything. He moved away from her and basically just started life over. So he doesent actually need the money, he just does it to stay busy so he doesent start drinking. Kinda sad, but hes got pictures and stuff from builds and its actually true. So take it or leav it, I just know that I myself know my stuff and he confuses me half the time.

OK, a little strange, but fairly reasonable, I guess.....
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
I actually talked to a guy at checker who is a complete brain. He knows evrything about any oil. He said that rp is crap. He even explained why and had all the tests to prove it. He also said that valvoline synthetic is the only oil that he would ever use in any engine. He even knew exactly how the different steps are taken in production of synthedic vs. generic oils. I cant even remember all this info he told me but he definately knows his ****.

Ask him to see his degree sometime. Any knuckle head can run his mouth all day long about his motor oil bias, but (I'm getting tired of stating this) ANY API SM oil wil be fine in our cars, unless you're into something wild like Forced Induction, Solid Roller Cams, all out race, etc.

Go to BITOG, and educate yourself, and stop listening to pure bias. Or get these test results that prove why he thinks RP is garbage and post them up. If anything he's just trying to push what he sells at his store.

Story Makes no sense. If he got divorced and she took Everything, how does he not need money if he "started" over.. Everything implies he has nothing.

Mobil 1 is still like $6.xx/quart, escpecially at Wal-Mart. Their SuperTech oil is good too.

Last edited by buffman; Jan 9, 2009 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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ok i guess i should watch what i say She took the house, cars, **** like that, so he sold his buisness and left town. Thats how hes got money, and hes got degrees iv never even heard of. But I dont know the guy all that well. I just ask him stuff now and then and have been to his place so he could use all his fancy comps and scopes and such. So he could be lying about it all and have fake degrees or something (yes i saw them, just dident think i needed to say so). I just trust people untill I have a reason not to. maby its a flaw and i should trust nobody! lol

And if he was trying to push what he sells wouldent he push rp because its more expensive? Hes just an employee so its not like he gets anything out of it. And he has all the results and lab tests to prove his "bias", he even showed me, I just dont know what it all means and dident understand it completely(as i stated earlier). Sorry to step on toes.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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Not stepping on toes, but it just sounds like another person who makes a bias about an oil, and keeps it. I can show you lab results all day long that show any particular oil is better than the next. Better question to ask would be why does he have all of these "lab tests" to prove just royal purple is crap.. Some of those tests are not even cheap, even if you have a lot of money to throw around.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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good point, I dident know they were expensive. He seemed to say he did them himself, so i dunno. I have noticed that some guys just say **** to make you think they know what theyr talking about. I think thats a horrable thing to do. What if somebody applied that horseshit knowledge and wrecked whatever it is they are working on! So i do agree with you on being skeptical i guess. Whateva!
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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I have no idea WHY you guys are changing synthetic oils at 3000 or even 5000 miles. I run dino oil to 5000 mile intervals in my Honda Accord, synthetic intervals to 10,000 miles(filter every 5000).

You guys are flushing money RIGHT down the drain.

Read this test.

http://www.performancemotoroil.com/Taxi_test.html

ANother good read

http://www.ganoa.org/Motor_oil2.htm

If you think you run your car harder than a NYC cab...I doubt it.

SInce the govt stepped in and mandated minimum oil requirements. There is no "bad" oil, just some better than others.

ANother good point to ponder, if your oil is dirty, its doing its job.

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Jan 9, 2009 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #39  
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If you want to run extended drains, I would suggest testing whatever oil you run, in your own engine, subjected to your own driving habits & environment, to find out how it holds up. But I would agree that changing any decent synthetic at 3000 miles, and probably even at 5,000 miles, is more than likely very unnecessary.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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Heres my oil report. For years i ran mobil 1 5 w 30. Then switched to the GC 00w30 love this stuff. Note car really has 127000 miles on it. I was pretty skecptical about doing a oil test. Glad i do now though. Peace of mind
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oil report1.doc (25.0 KB, 117 views)
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