Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

Ok, well as everyone is aware tax returns are creeping up on us and I need some help spending the small amount of money I will recieve. I think I will be getting about 1350$ back. I would like to be in the 11s. It is damn close now. I know not alot but still. Here is what I have now...

80k miles-
Meziere W/p
MSD opti
Pacesetter LTs
3"x pipe
3" dynomax bullets
CC306
Pac Springs
Comp Retainers, locks, seats
Stock clutch
NOS Universal kit- pilled for 80hp
Stock 3.42s ( I know my sig says 4.10s...)
Sphon Double adjustable heim jointed LCAs
Eibach Sportline kit.

Oh I have a wide band but not o2 for it, or even a bung for it so. I'll add that too.

There may be more but I may be forgetting.

I was thinking RAM clutch, 4.10s, TA cover, bigger nitrous nozzle, sub frame connectors, wide band o2, get bung welded to my exhaust? Help me spend my money...

Thanks D

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

I would definitely at least get a clutch. SFCs are a great inexpensive mod.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

You might not want to go to 4.10s. They are fun but really on a street tire you may end up with no traction. I did the stud kit, T/A cover and had the 4.10s mikronited. Somehow even though they were checked on twice and stayed where they were setup eventually the pinion came loose somehow. I ended up chipping one tooth on the pinion. I also kissed goodbye any chance of the car hooking up. Had them in there for two years, but I wouldn't do it again.

Maybe put the funds away and $1k later buy a aftermarket rearend?

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

Ok well I thought about the rearend. That was actually my plans all along, but I decided that I never go to the track hardly and I don't ever really race from a dig, If I beat on it, it is usually from a roll and I try and go pretty easy on it. So I might just leave the 10 bolt in it until I get a little more serious with it.

D

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I don't know what I'm doing with my refund, everything that I want I got, I'm probably going to be buying some stuff for my girl.

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

Well I want lots. Just don't have money for lots. It would be nice to have an lsx in it. With twins, more juice, a rear end, a cage, full suspension...wings, jet engine...you know the works. But I don't think ~1300$ is going to do that.

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

i think ur list is pretty good. maybe some more suspension lik a torque arm

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Ill be getting a good clutch! I suggest you do the same!!

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

Just a regular non adjustable one? Or adjustable on? And what brand?

If I scratch the gears here is what I am at.

TA Cover/Mac cover-- 130$
Clutch--400$
New nozzle and jets-- 75$
SFCs-- 150$
O2 Sensor and bung-- 100$
---------------------------
So that leaves me about 500$ give or take.

D

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

I figured a RAM clutch. WS6 store has is for 400$ Good for 425hp I believe. I don't want a chattery hard to drive clutch, and I heard the spec was kinda harsh. And more expensive. Plus I know a guy that has a 98 SS that runs mid 6's on a RAM clutch. So? Opinions?

D

HottestZ28

iTrader: (2)

if your plan is to upgrade the rear later DON'T spend any money on the rear it's like throwing it away.plus 4.10 with nitrous = instant traction loss
Clutch, Subs, if you lower it your gonna need LCA brackets, Dyno tune? or Bigger injectors with a bigger shot?

HottestZ28

iTrader: (2)

spec stage 2 isn't really bad at all, I got theirs with their billet FW and LOVE it! Def get a good clutch with the power you could make with a bigger shot.

I would go with an adj torque arm if you plan to lower it. I never liked the idea of non adjustable suspension parts

mikes98z

iTrader: (9)

You may want to look at getting the heads opened up a little and match them to the intake.

or

put a T/A cover on it and add some more juice (125 shot).

or

buy a new set of slicks or ET radials for the track (didnt mention what tires you have).

or

or do all the above....should run real good. always the weight reductions mods too.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Not much reason to buy a torque arm if you don't go the the track a lot. I run a stock torque arm pulling 1.601 60' times. I won't get a new one until I actually need it.

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

adjustable torque arm and id talk to the sponsors see wat u lik

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

a torque arm will make a difference on the street.

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

Well like I said up there it is already lowered. It has the Eibach sportline kit. And thats what he said so I will scratch the gears. Just go with the cover to prolong its life.

If I get the clutch I will be using the stock flywheel. I don't have money for a 400$ billet flywheel.

I don't really want to get into the heads yet. I want to wait until I either buy a set of heads. Or get a motor built. As for tires I have a set of 315/35R17 Nitto DRs, and for every day driving I have Sumitomos. Same size. Brand new. (I'm asst. Manager of a tire store.) As for weight reductions I want to keep everything. I ditched the jack and spare. Moved battery to the rear. But that is about it for weight reduction. I want my a/c and p/s and so on so forth.

D

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

I wish I could cut those times. My 60ft times are 2.20+. Either blows the tires off or slips the clutch. Plus I am scared to launch it hard. Quite a difference from my Fox body that cut 1.30-1.60 60fts. But it still runs 8.0s with the clutch slipping.

How hard is that TA cover to install?

D

I wonder if the sponsors will have any deals for us to blow our income taxes on?

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

there def will be lol

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

T/A cover is easy to install, just make sure you have a torque wrench, you don't want to overtorque any of it. If you are going to do that get the stud kit for the bearing caps also while you are in there.