Hey guys. I am looking to pull my LT1 out the bottom.

Does anyone have any good advice or writeups on how to do it?

I'd also love to know if there are any uncommon tools needed as my tool selection is slightly limited.

Thanks alot

-Eric

 

The search tool always finds answers.

 

it would take days to do a write up but I am thinking about it, I put mine back in 2 days ago, its really not bad tho man. You are gopine to need a good SBC harmonic balancer puller kit to pull that crank snout off, and I fuel line disconnect tool, other than that it was just simple hand tools.

 

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

 

I found it is easy as hell to remove from the top, but whatever you are more comfortable with.

 

thanks for postin this itll help me soon

 

Pretty easy to go out the bottom, it takes me about an hour.

 

not to but I understand the whole out the bottem part but for more in depth questions
Can you leave all the wiring connected to the engine/trans and pull the PCM plug?
Do you pull the P/S res, Brake ABS/Master cyl all at once?Instead of bleeding the brakes
Does the A/C compressor stay in the car? Or do you have to evacuate the system?

Will be using a lift

 

We were unhooking the wiring from the engine. My plan is to remove it entirely from the car and clean it up. Couple bits of loom are burned and alot of it is really dirty.

What I am having trouble with was the passenger side 02, and the knock sensor i believe it is. Goes into the block on the pass side down around the dipstick. We havn't dropped the Y pipe or anything yet though so I can't get at it from the bottom.

We'll be doing that tomorrow when I get ahold of a saw-zall to cut the pipes off. 160k miles and the things rusted to ****.



Anyone know where the connector goes through the firewall into the car?


Also my buddies want to use a chain-pull winch thing attached to the rafters to lift the car. I want to use the cherry picker.

Can someone convince me one way or the other?

Thanks.

 

You have to un-plug the Harness from the vehicle, the connections are under the on the passengers side. You have to unbolt the PCM as well.

You have to unbolt the PS Resivoir, you just disconnect the front 2 Brake Lines and make sure they clear. You have to unbolt the Steering Linkage as well.

You have to evacuate and un-bolt the AC System, the AC Compressor is on the side of the Engine and drops down with it.

 

What I am having trouble with was the passenger side 02, and the knock sensor i believe it is. Goes into the block on the pass side down around the dipstick. We havn't dropped the Y pipe or anything yet though so I can't get at it from the bottom.

You should be able to just drop the exhaust still attached to the motor by just unbolting the catback and then when the subframe is out from under the car detach the headers, y pipe, bracket that goes to the trans etc... If you are replacing all that stuff with new parts I guess there is no harm in cutting with sawzall...


Anyone know where the connector goes through the firewall into the car?

As mentioned above by Merv, take the plastic panel off inside the passenger footwell and unclip several big plastic clips then pull all that wiring back inside the engine compartment and remove the PCm from the same corner...


Also my buddies want to use a chain-pull winch thing attached to the rafters to lift the car. I want to use the cherry picker.
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I just did mine last week using hte cherry picker, I attached a huge pull strap around the front frame horns just behind where the radiator support goes accross the car, I then put the hook of the cherry picker on the strap and pulled the whole car up till the engine was clear heightwise and set the car down on jackstands... If you have an overhead winch setup that is legit and you don't mind removing the hood, I might do that instead just cause the whole operation underneath is then clear and you seem to want to clean things up a bit, not sure if I'd trust myself with that setup but then I'm an idiot....

Oh and a few posts above someone mentioned using a SBC balancer puller for the front crank hub.. that is totally the wrong way to get the hub off, get a FSM or Haynes and then do it correctly I know a guy who used the old school puller and ruined the end of his crankshaft...

 

That's funny, a SBC harmonic balancer puller is the correct way to pull the crank snout. A SBC harmonic balancer puller is your standard 3 bolt puller. I used my old head bolts to thread into the 3 tabs on the crank snout as they are the same size and pitch. People usually recomend using a 5/16" allen head bolt that is 4 inches long to bottom out in the threads on the end of the crankshaft, the allen head gives the puller somewhere stable to push on while keeping it centered. I didn't have an allen head so I just used a regular bolt then slipped a socket over the end, worked well. Just make sure that the head of the bolt you are using to push on is smaller than the hole for the crank bolt or is long enough that the crank snout will break free before binding on the head of the bolt.

 

hey you seem like you know alot about lts.well i lost my accessories bolts like the main bracket alternator bolts power steering pump bensioner pulley.just all the accessory bolts and i cant find them anywhere.jegs,summit,salvage yards,dealerships. nowhere,thats all im lacking on my trans am.would you happen to know bolt lengths or where i can get them

 

Try the Classifieds and see if anyone has any LT1 parts..

 

Three of us did it in a couple hours last night on an LS car.
We made a custom dolly to drop the K member on.



The finished product.

 

ewwww

 

What?

 

i have looked repeatidly but no one wants to just sell me the bolts.do you know if v6 camaro would be similar or if the lt1 caprice has the same bolts.

 

I don't see why it wouldnt..

 

plastic intakes just messin

just get bolts from a hardware store. done.