What would you do?
The motor has a mild rebuild. Block was linehoned and has +1 bearings, stock crank, stock rods, and new stock piston and rings. Cyl were not bored. Heads and Intake were locally ported, work doesn't look bad at all. The cam is a GM846. Injectors are 26lbs and I think are stock Ls1s, not sure. TB was also ported locally. The motor has about 500 miles on it. The guy I bought it from got it from a local builder who's known to build strong motors but keeps it all secret.
Here's my problems:
1. The motor was sprayed a 200 shot about 6 times with less than 500 miles on it.
2. Idk which valvesprings are on it since the builder is a secret squirrel and won't tell me. He just says to trust him on it. He did recommend a new timing chain.
3. I pull timing cover off to look at timing set. The chain had so much play in it I could almost take it off and the gears were worn.
3. The new Opti that was on it is fried. The cap looks like it got a lil hot and warped the cap.
I don't know if I trust the short block to hold up. I don't have the funds to do a 355 rebuild.
My question is, should I run the rebuilt block that I have concern about or swap the top end over to the motor that's in the car now that has close 135,000 miles on it.
My gut is telling me to just buy a new chain and gaskets an do the topend swap and if I can afford it, new valvesprings. I figured I'd ask you guys for your opinions.
If I had the funds I'd have the heads/intake flow benched and springs tested.
So I ask, what would you do if you had less than $700 to spend?
Kinda figured there would be responses since this seems to be a very opinionated site. Oh well.
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I'd leave the car as it is, tear the new-to-you engine down and build it exactly like you want it.
When it's where you want it, take the old plant out and install the new guy.
It's like having your cake and eating it too... You get to drive your Z and take your sweet time building up any level of engine you want from a stock rebuild to a nasty overkill stroker with crazy short block strength so you can run massive induction with never a concern for bending the internal drivetrain.
But I wouldn't even consider going through the hassle of exchanging the top-end of the old motor without rebuilding the bottom end...
I feel this would be the smart way to go but the temptation of swapping the topend is extremely high and I hope I can keep myself from doing it. You figure I would've learne d my lesson the first time when I did the Hotcam in a 100,000 mile plus motor and it spun a bearing within 5000 miles. Even the thought of just swapping the heads and intake are tempting. I just gotta be patient and start saving.
"Trusting" him could leave you with crappy cheap springs that work fine for that cam but as soon as you change cams you hit coil bind or snap a spring at 6000 rpms.
If the parts are good, and they work, why wont he just tell you what they are?!? Its not rocket science and I'm sure he is not building anything that a million builders havent done before him.
PS: LS1 injectors are indeed only 26#s on an LT1. They run a vastly different fuel pressure - 58psi compared to an LT1s 43.5.


