Any guesses at power/time for my AI setup?
#21
Well thats what i was hoping for (11.7x-11.9x) so i will be beyond happy. What do you guys think if i dont have the 4.10 and just the 3.23 will it hurt me that much? I'm not sure if cash will allow the 4.10's in time for the season...
#24
I run a very similar cam from Joe Overton 226/234 .568" on a 111lsa in my 383 and it loves 4.10s, even more so in a 350, and my times in my sig were with a Vig 3600, have since upped stall to 4000...You have the beginnings of a good combo which will be optimized with 4.10s, a 28" tire like the 275 60 R15s and a bit more stall...I would do 3600...The mph will be there, it will be up to your suspension to get your ET where it needs to be...solid 11s are definitely achievable as long as the whole combo is right...The heads are the only variable as to how well they were done...
--Alan
--Alan
#25
Well i was def planning on going with 4.10's with and a 28 tall et street radial, only thing is that i'll be stickin with the 3200vig, i dont have money for the 3600+ right now so the 3200 will have to do. Hoping to still run mid to high 11's though.
#28
i would put money on you break 3-4 teeth on the 4.10s on the 3-4 launch. if your lucky. if not and they hold up. your gono fry the whole 10 bolt. not tryin to be a dick just seen it happen too many times before.
#29
--Alan
#30
Nice combo list. And as mentioned, 11's are attainable. Dyno numbers don't mean anything. At the track is where it counts. Ion or Larry will be able to tell you how high a stall you need after tuning it on the dyno. And yes, 4.10 gear will help you get there quicker.
#31
I think everyone is guessing too high with dyno numbers but you should run in the high 11s if you get all the kinks ironed out and you can hook. I will say 340 rwhp, but dyno numbers mean nothing.
our mods are very similar, same weight reduction, touched up stock heads, same gears, except you have more suspension work done, Ive got a bigger stall (yank PT4000) and I have a considerably larger cam (242/250). I really want to see what your car runs.
our mods are very similar, same weight reduction, touched up stock heads, same gears, except you have more suspension work done, Ive got a bigger stall (yank PT4000) and I have a considerably larger cam (242/250). I really want to see what your car runs.
#32
larger cam doesnt always mean more power.
#33
Ideally you want your converter on street/strip applications to stall between 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor...This is one of the few times where a dyno is handy...I would consult the folks at PI (Vig) to see what they spec for you...I deal with Vicki there and shes very knowledgable...Im thinking that the 4000 would be great..Thats what I run and with my extra cubes my torque peak is probably a bit lower than with your set up...Vicki doesnt recommend more than 4000 for the street in LT1 applications anyway...Drivability with both the 3600 and the 4000 are great...I've had both...My current Vig 4000 is fantastic...
--Alan
--Alan
Ya i've been told by multiple people this cam is spec'd out perfect for a stock headed stock bottom end car, the powerban is nice and attainable for a stock bottom end at about 6200 so i dont have to rev to the moon to take full advantage of the cam. I know i will be very happy with my selection and it will be like sex to my ears when i first start it up cause i love the idle of this cam.