LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 worth it??

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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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Default LT1 worth it??

ok guys i have a 94 lt1 formula. it runs pretty good but, i have a neighbor who has told me that the lt1 kinda sucks as far as power. like its a waste to do mods to it. now he is a ford guy, however he loves the ls1 setup, he thinks its one of the best motors gm built. he has had friends dump over 10k into an engine and not get much out of it. and the only reason even kind of listen to it is that he owns his own high performance/custom shop. what does everyone think. keep it for now run it mostly stock and build a carb 350, or ls1, or can i do heads, cam, intake, and bolt ons to run 11's, totally not against spray, but not sure a stock bottom end is wise on spray. i currently have ceramic coated hooker supercomp long tubes, super-comp y-pipe, custom 3" exhaust, cold air kit, jet chip, built trans, shift kit, air foil, and (minor but not stock) no egr crap, ventless opti-spark, and taylor wires, havent run it yet at the track, but seems kinda quick, let me know your opinions, any and all are welcome
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:43 AM
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well check out the lt-1 shootouts, there are pleanty of people going pretty damn fast on an lt-1 build, and some putting down 11's on bolt on only. Would i love to have an ls1 well sure yeah of course but the $6-8,000 to do an ls1 swap is not worth it IMO. Besides you could do a TON of work to an lt-1 for that money. If it was me and i really wanted an ls1 that bad, i'd sell my car and buy an 98-02 camaro you can find them fairly regularly for $6-7k
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by buckner01
ok guys i have a 94 lt1 formula. it runs pretty good but, i have a neighbor who has told me that the lt1 kinda sucks as far as power. like its a waste to do mods to it. now he is a ford guy, however he loves the ls1 setup, he thinks its one of the best motors gm built. he has had friends dump over 10k into an engine and not get much out of it. and the only reason even kind of listen to it is that he owns his own high performance/custom shop. what does everyone think. keep it for now run it mostly stock and build a carb 350, or ls1, or can i do heads, cam, intake, and bolt ons to run 11's, totally not against spray, but not sure a stock bottom end is wise on spray. i currently have ceramic coated hooker supercomp long tubes, super-comp y-pipe, custom 3" exhaust, cold air kit, jet chip, built trans, shift kit, air foil, and (minor but not stock) no egr crap, ventless opti-spark, and taylor wires, havent run it yet at the track, but seems kinda quick, let me know your opinions, any and all are welcome
You can search the "mod my LT1 or get a LS1" debate all day. Most will tell you to just stick with what you got. The LT1 can make big power if you mod it correctly. Look into some heads/cam packages from either Advanced Induction (Ai) or Llyod Elliot (Elliot Portworks).
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
You can search the "mod my LT1 or get a LS1" debate all day. Most will tell you to just stick with what you got. The LT1 can make big power if you mod it correctly. Look into some heads/cam packages from either Advanced Induction (Ai) or Llyod Elliot (Elliot Portworks).
+1..Lloyds stuff is awesome
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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It is a lot harder to go fast with an LT1 than an LS1. That being said...it is MUCH more impressive to have a fast LT1 car vs an LS1 car. Any RETARD can spend 6-7K on an LS1, put on a set of headers, a cat-back, a lid, and gut the thing until it runs bottom 12's/high 11's. It takes very little engine knowledge to get an LS1 car to move out, they are very good from the get-go. You never have to go into the internals to get good numbers out of them.

I am never impressed when I see a 11.75-12.25 LS1 car, because they are a dime a dozen. I am more and more impressed when I see rarer cars hitting good numbers, or ones with neglected powerplants from a performance standpoint. The LT1 falls into that category, simply because it's been bypassed by the newer technology.

You will spend more money to get an LT1 car as fast as an LS1 car, but you usually save a lot on the initial cost of the car, so sometimes it can be a wash.

Last year I was contemplating taking the plunge into LS1 territory, now I am VERY glad that I didn't. When you are in an LT1 car you are automatically supposed to lose to every LS1 car. It can be a lot of fun being the underdog all the time. Nothing humbles an LS1 guy more than getting his *** handed to him in an LT1. Honestly, a LOT of LS1 guys (not all of them) can be total ****** to the prior generations, especially LT1 guys. I never understood this. I was around when TPI came out, and you NEVER saw TPI guys (IROC's) talking **** or looking down on guys running carbs. When the LT1's hit the scene hard in the mid-90's you never saw them looking down at the TPI guys or the carb guys either. But when the LS1 came out, it was like..."**** everyone else, you guys all suck", lol. Now, again...not all of the LS1 guys are like this...but there seems to be quite a few. You can't even talk to them without bringing up an "LS1 vs..whatever " argument. Everything to them revolves around their motor, lol.

For your car...you say you aren't against heads/cam/ intake and even some spray. With those mods, 10's are an easy target for you. A stock bottom end will handle a 125-150 shot all day long. There are plenty of heads/cam packages to get you into the 10's without even spraying, but you'll need the car setup real good first.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Ummm it's cheaper to go fast in an LT1.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackLT1Z
Ummm it's cheaper to go fast in an LT1.
No.

An LS1 car goes low 13's stock. LT1's need quite a few bolt-ons ($$$$$$) to get there. You save more with the initial cost of buying the LT1 car because they are cheaper to begin with, but mod for mod, an LS1 will spank it. Try running an 11.30 with an LT1 car N/A and let me know how much you spend. You will need heads/cam full bolt ons gears, stall, etc.... An LS1 car won't ever have to remove a valve cover.

If you need proof just look at your own sig. 312/331? with ported heads, full bolt ons, and a tune. An LS1 would do that with a lid and a cat-back, not even tuned
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:22 AM
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all of these are quite helpfull and all say pretty much the same thing, stick with what i got. i just got the car on the road within the last 3 weeks so im not looking for anything huge right now, i just wanted to know if it was a waist of time and money even looking into it. i do want to set the car up for more power before i get it, like suspension, cage everything, so if you are at the track in the next year and see a mid 13 sec black and silver formula with a cage,(haha) that would probly be me, the suspension is all stock, and with what i have it will not hook up on the street, maybe its because its freezing ***** cold, or slightly older tires but it will spin all day. any ideas on getting it to hook up, drag springs, ?slicks? seem kinda excessive but maybe.....?
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by buckner01
all of these are quite helpfull and all say pretty much the same thing, stick with what i got. i just got the car on the road within the last 3 weeks so im not looking for anything huge right now, i just wanted to know if it was a waist of time and money even looking into it. i do want to set the car up for more power before i get it, like suspension, cage everything, so if you are at the track in the next year and see a mid 13 sec black and silver formula with a cage,(haha) that would probly be me, the suspension is all stock, and with what i have it will not hook up on the street, maybe its because its freezing ***** cold, or slightly older tires but it will spin all day. any ideas on getting it to hook up, drag springs, ?slicks? seem kinda excessive but maybe.....?
Better tires should cure it. You're not yet at the power level where you'll require a lot of suspension work.

I got some stuff from BYUNSPEED on here, and they have package deals on suspension components. It's a great idea to buy stuff in bundles instead of piece by piece, to save you some bucks.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by joelster
No.

An LS1 car goes low 13's stock. LT1's need quite a few bolt-ons ($$$$$$) to get there. You save more with the initial cost of buying the LT1 car because they are cheaper to begin with, but mod for mod, an LS1 will spank it. Try running an 11.30 with an LT1 car N/A and let me know how much you spend. You will need heads/cam full bolt ons gears, stall, etc.... An LS1 car won't ever have to remove a valve cover.

If you need proof just look at your own sig. 312/331? with ported heads, full bolt ons, and a tune. An LS1 would do that with a lid and a cat-back, not even tuned
LT1's don't need a lot of bolt on's to run 13's. I've seen them run 13's with just a stall and sticky tires.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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To me it's very easy. I'd go Lt1. I love the Ls1 and I own a couple of them. But as far as spending cash. It all depends on what you can do to your car yourself. I build my own engines, port polish, stroke, etc. I went to school for it and I can bet that I can build an Lt1 for under 3,000 and spank an Ls1 that puts in the same amount of money in the car. It's also not all about the motor, You must consider suspension, gear ratio, tire size, torque converster size or clutch you will be using. I've got a friend with an 01Z28 and has tons of money his modded LS1. I spank him regularly with my 95 silverado with an LT1. but again I have my suspension setup for hard launching and overall reaction time. If I can take him on launch and take off then he will be playing catch up. LS1's have very good top end. Even my 94maro has a LT1 that gives him a headache and pisses him off because i spank him. Again it all depends on what you know how to do. If you do not have the skills to work on your own car then an LS1 is your best friend. Just bolt ons and they scream. An LT1 you will have to dip in to the internals. But I still love em.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by joelster
Try running an 11.30 An LS1 car won't ever have to remove a valve cover.
No I call bullshit. I know guy running heads n cam that get mid 11s...your gonna have to have a seriously good setup that is dialed in perfectly to even come close to 11.3 w/o taking the valve covers off...most cam only ls1's were low 12s maybe high 11s around here and thats w/ supporting **** like a rear and sticky tires.

Actually when it comes to building motors up....lsx motors are way more expensive to build than an lt1
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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well i would like to in the near future get like a 2500 stall and a set of 3.73 or 4.10 gears and either a set of 255-50-16 drag radials, or a set of like 8 or 9" slicks will those tires launch the car pretty good with this setup, im getting new wheels so ill just stick the tires on the stock wheels

Last edited by buckner01; Jan 20, 2009 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by transamws6_97
No I call bullshit. I know guy running heads n cam that get mid 11s...your gonna have to have a seriously good setup that is dialed in perfectly to even come close to 11.3 w/o taking the valve covers off...most cam only ls1's were low 12s maybe high 11s around here and thats w/ supporting **** like a rear and sticky tires.

Actually when it comes to building motors up....lsx motors are way more expensive to build than an lt1
I agree on the car being setup, but this list doesn't lie:


RUQWIKR -------- 10.685 @ 122.91 (1.37), 01 Formula T400, ATI4600, 4.56, 3060, 03/08
Project_SS ----- 10.866 @ 122.14 (1.45), 98 Camaro SS A4, TCI4400, 3.73, 2840, 03/07
Magnus --------- 10.987 @ 119.31 (1.42), 97 Firebird A4, YPT4400, 4.10, 2920, 12/04
1BAD98LS1 ------ 11.089 @ 120.62 (1.47), 98 Formula A4, YTP4000, 3.89, 3070, 11/07
Skelton -------- 11.234 @ 117.80 (1.50), 01 Formula A3, CN4800, 4.10, 3180, 01/07
Hawkn01 -------- 11.256 @ 118.48 (1.52), 01 Firehawk A4, TCS4200, 3.73, 3086, 03/04
SilentbutViolent 11.302 @ 117.84 (1.52), 98 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4600, 3.73, 3128, 11/04
V6 Bird -------- 11.322 @ 118.67 (1.53), 01 Formula A4, YTP4000, 3.23, 3170, 11/02
Matt D --------- 11.421 @ 116.24 (1.47), 99 Camaro Z28 A4, YPT4400, 3.73, 3100, 11/07
ATwelveSec02Z28 11.424 @ 119.26 (1.53), 02 Camaro Z28 M6, RAM, 4.56, 3300, 12/06
BAIN ----------- 11.429 @ 116.81 (1.51), 00 Camaro SS A4, TCI4400, 3.73, 3400, 12/04
Lane ----------- 11.458 @ 117.33 (1.53), 01 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4200, 3.42, 3350, 11/02
11SECSS -------- 11.458 @ 116.94 (1.50), 01 Camaro SS A4, YTP4000, 3.23, 3200, 04/02
DMcRacer ------- 11.468 @ 116.88 (1.56), 02 Camaro SS A4, PY3800E, 3:42, 3400, 11/03
MDBlackZ28 ----- 11.494 @ 115.85 (1.56), 00 Camaro Z28 A4, TCI4000, 4.10, 3150, 07/05
Black Sunshine - 11.496 @ 116.24 (1.52), 01 Camaro SS A4, Vig3200, 3.73, 3225, 10/01
Birdman -------- 11.519 @ 115.60 (1.55), 98 TransAmWS6 A4, YTP4400, 3.73, 3180, 05/02
WILWAXU -------- 11.544 @ 115.36 (1.53), 01 Formula A4, YTP4200, 3.73, 3320, 01/04
01-Z ----------- 11.549 @ 117.82 (1.60), 01 Camaro Z28 M6, Mcleod, 4.30, 3090, 09/02
Lynda ---------- 11.550 @ 115.36 (1.51), 01 Camaro Z28 A4, YPT4400, 3.42, 3340, 12/03
chrs1313 ------- 11.558 @ 116.24 (1.54), 02 Camaro Z28 A4, YSS3600, 3.23, 3365, 11/07
Raughammer ----- 11.562 @ 115.25 (1.50), 98 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4500, 3.73, 3175, 01/01
2002Z ---------- 11.564 @ 115.75 (1.52), 02 Camaro Z28 A4, YST3500, 3.73, 3450, 10/02
Colonel -------- 11.565 @ 115.54 (1.51), 00 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4600, 3.89, 3285, 10/00
RAGEman -------- 11.568 @ 121.13 (1.71), 01 Camaro Z28 M6, stock, 3.42, 3200, 03/02
Dangerous SS --- 11.576 @ 116.52 (1.55), 02 Camaro SS A4, YTP4400, 3.23, 3360, 01/04
MikeHoffpauir -- 11.593 @ 116.00 (1.56), 00 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4400, 3.42, 3340, 12/01
JFM ------------ 11.623 @ 115.44 (1.57), 99 Camaro SS A4, YTP4400, 3.42, 3350, 01/02
DOUBT IT ------- 11.623 @ 114.94 (1.57), 00 Camaro Z28 A4, TCI4000, 3.73, 3365, 11/08
mmiller -------- 11.664 @ 114.55 (1.53), 01 Camaro SS A4, YST3500, 3.23, 3312, 02/02
JS12 ----------- 11.672 @ 119.23 (1.72), 02 Camaro Z28 M6, Spec S4, 3.73, 3435, 11/02
LARRY01Z28 ----- 11.674 @ 118.20 (1.71), 01 Camaro Z28 M6, Star, 3.73, 3265, 10/02
JASON ---------- 11.682 @ 116.37 (1.62), 98 Camaro Z28 A4, YSY3500, 3.42, 3340, 01/03
FASTR A4 ------- 11.694 @ 114.57 (1.56), 00 Formula A4, YTP4400, 3.73, 3450, 04/03
LS1INSIDE ------ 11.700 @ 114.93 (1.55), 99 Camaro Z28 A4, YPT4400, 3.42, 3350, 02/06
AliWantsNss ---- 11.702 @ 116.58 (1.56), 02 Camaro Z28 M6, CARTEK, 4.11, 3425, 11/05
Kent1 ---------- 11.704 @ 115.38 (1.51), 99 Camaro SS A4, YTP4200, 4.10, 3400, 03/07
1999TransamWs6 - 11.715 @ 115.93 (1.73), 99 Trans am A3, PTC4000, 3.23, 3600, 11/05
XtremeLS1Z28 --- 11.719 @ 115.07 (1.64), 00 Camaro Z28 A4, TCI3500, 3.73, 3260, 03/06
2Quick4U ------- 11.721 @ 115.19 (1.58), 00 Trans-Am A4, Vig3200, 3.73, 3500, 10/01
MADCOW --------- 11.730 @ 115.80 (1.57), 98 Camaro Z28 A4, TCS4200, 3.73, 3300, 03/04
NSSANE02 ------- 11.731 @ 117.13 (1.68), 02 Camaro SS M6, TexOZ700,4.11, 3360, 06/08
black02-z28 ---- 11.731 @ 113.81 (1.50), 02 Camaro Z28 A4, YSS4200, 3.73, 3600, 12/04
z28kid98 ------- 11.740 @ 113.55 (1.56), 98 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4400, 3.23, 3250, 10/02
Durien --------- 11.747 @ 117.59 (1.60), 99 Camaro SS M6, Cartek, 4.11, 3487, 02/04
Raptor99 ------- 11.756 @ 115.06 (1.57), 99 Trans Am A4, TCI3800, 3.73, 3440, 11/04
Steve350 ------- 11.761 @ 114.46 (1.55), 01 Camaro Z28 A4, YST3500, 3.23, 3430, 01/02
PewterZ28 ------ 11.762 @ 114.53 (1.60), 02 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4400, 3.23, 3360, 04/03
jay_99z -------- 11.767 @ 113.66 (1.56), 99 Camaro Z28 A4, TCS4200, 3.73, 3400, 11/04
Jnorris -------- 11.773 @ 113.02 (1.59), 98 Camaro Z28 A4, YTP4000, 3.23, 3390, 11/02
*Bolt on's ONLY. Stock internals motor, intake to oil pan, stock long block (as it came from GM). LS6/LSx style
If you look at the raceweights you'll see the top guys are gutted huge, but towards the bottom they are full interior cars.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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oh i agree that the suspension and driveline setup is just as important as the engine setup, but i was just curious as to what the best route would be for me to go
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by transamws6_97
Actually when it comes to building motors up....lsx motors are way more expensive to build than an lt1
^Truth. How much does a quality stroker crank cost on an LS1 vs. a SBC? Stick with what you have, I am just finishing all the external work you can do on an LT1 and its very satisfying to wrangle an LS1 here and there.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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I wouldn't go any lower than 3000 on a stall
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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Well my LT1 ran 13.32 with a catback exhaust and drag radials, I did a top end to it and its now making 414 to the rear tires NA on a stock bottom end with a DAna S60 rear end. Oh Im also using stock ported heads by LE. LT1s rule!!!
PS I had a ls1 sold it and bought another LT1
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Well my LT1 ran 13.32 with a catback exhaust and drag radials, I did a top end to it and its now making 414 to the rear tires NA on a stock bottom end with a DAna S60 rear end. Oh Im also using stock ported heads by LE. LT1s rule!!!
PS I had a ls1 sold it and bought another LT1
Nice! Like I said...it don't take much to get them into the 13's. Plus LSx parts are almost double in price
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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even with the little i have now you think it would be better off with a 3000stall?
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