What's the quickest/cheapest for 12s?
#61
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#62
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So what your sayin is NO
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#64
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ok so no nitrous.....ewp. ive read its about 8rwhp pick up. i didnt really see a difference. i would do gears like 100 other people said. dude, on the instal, put a solid sleeve instead of a crush sleeve (8$), and make your tolerances a lttle tighter. and if your STILL worried, put a studded rear cover for 120 $. SLOP is what lets **** break. that is my exact set up. less than 400 $. and the calculator that was posted earlier shows you will get 120 mph out of a 26 inch tire on 4.10s on 4l60e 1:1 3rd gear so NO od. im speaking from experience. im not guessing.
#67
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i say mayb some adjustable rear shocks. try and get it to not squat as bad. also how are u leaving on the convertor. are u letting it flash or are u just holdin it as much as it will foot brake
#69
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I skipped a couple pages but realistically 102.x isn't going to get you a 12 second pass...
So that being said, you need to get it down to about a 1.7x 60' time and pick up another MPH.
I'd say the rockers are your best option. Buy someone's cheap SA rockers then sell 'em when you're ready to do a cam. No need to do big springs, NSA setup, etc for just rockers.
Everyone goes through changes in their setup. There's no such thing as "buy it once" for these cars. I've gone through numerous setups and have done well with them all and moved on from them as time went on.
So that being said, you need to get it down to about a 1.7x 60' time and pick up another MPH.
I'd say the rockers are your best option. Buy someone's cheap SA rockers then sell 'em when you're ready to do a cam. No need to do big springs, NSA setup, etc for just rockers.
Everyone goes through changes in their setup. There's no such thing as "buy it once" for these cars. I've gone through numerous setups and have done well with them all and moved on from them as time went on.
#70
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how about 2500+ launch. i ran a 13.04 @ 103 with a 2.0 60' (w/ stock manifolds!). i think there is something wrong with the tune on the top end, or the shift points are fubar'd. try a good tune.
than spray the house down.
than spray the house down.
#72
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spend that money on some wrenches so you can remove the passenger and back seats at the track, then put them back in when you are done racing. then its not a "permanent" weight reduction.
OR save more money cuz you dont have enough to do what you want to do.
OR save more money cuz you dont have enough to do what you want to do.
#73
Get an underdrive pulley set, aluminum driveshaft, yank the air filter, and put lightweight Redline synthetics in the motor,trans, and rear. Also, make sure your front tires are at max pressure or a bit more at the track.
You cut the baffles in the hood already right?
Back when I had my LT1 WS6 hood on, I could look through the nostrils in the hood and see my red Holley throttle blades clearly with the air filter removed, thats a CAI.
You cut the baffles in the hood already right?
Back when I had my LT1 WS6 hood on, I could look through the nostrils in the hood and see my red Holley throttle blades clearly with the air filter removed, thats a CAI.
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They are at 6k, no point in going higher on a stock cam.
I ran with 1/2-3/4 tank last time, so there's a slight bit to be gained.
I pulled the filter and it didn't do anything at the track last time... and I never inflated the front tires either.
I haven't gutted the hood, a certain brother of mine destroyed my dremel and never replaced it...
Impossible, the tires turn over at 21-2200
I agree.
Get an underdrive pulley set, aluminum driveshaft, yank the air filter, and put lightweight Redline synthetics in the motor,trans, and rear. Also, make sure your front tires are at max pressure or a bit more at the track.
You cut the baffles in the hood already right?
Back when I had my LT1 WS6 hood on, I could look through the nostrils in the hood and see my red Holley throttle blades clearly with the air filter removed, thats a CAI.
You cut the baffles in the hood already right?
Back when I had my LT1 WS6 hood on, I could look through the nostrils in the hood and see my red Holley throttle blades clearly with the air filter removed, thats a CAI.
I pulled the filter and it didn't do anything at the track last time... and I never inflated the front tires either.
I haven't gutted the hood, a certain brother of mine destroyed my dremel and never replaced it...
Impossible, the tires turn over at 21-2200
I agree.
#76
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So let me get this straight:
1.) You don't want to put a electric water pump in the car
2.) You don't want to put gears in the car
3.) You don't want to take weight out of the car
4.) You don't want to do rockers or valve springs
5.) You don't want to put nitrous on the car.
You already have headers and a offroad Y so thats you exhaust all done, cutout isn't going to help. Your a stalled auto with good tires cutting a pretty decent 60ft for your mods. So getting it to launch harder without a bigger stall is going to be tough. The way i see it you have some options:
1.) Go on a diet that will fit your budget.
2.) Get some lower control arm relocation brackets. That will cure the excessive squatting you described. You have a very good chance of getting that 1.7-1.6 60ft your looking for. Do be afraid to try both holes to see what 60fts better.
3.) Take the belt off for every last chance of power.
In my opinion you have a very good chance of clipping twelves with relo brackets and taking the belt off. If your looking for anything past that your going to have to put some real mods on it man. Cam, nitrous, rockers, valve springs, heads, gears, weight reduction, supercharger, turbo, tuning software. Get what I'm saying? The next logical step is a set of 3.73 gears. They will definitely help the 60ft plus et and mph better. Your going to have to move passed your not wanting to do certain things to go faster. But i do understand the budget and not wanting to do the same thing twice.
1.) You don't want to put a electric water pump in the car
2.) You don't want to put gears in the car
3.) You don't want to take weight out of the car
4.) You don't want to do rockers or valve springs
5.) You don't want to put nitrous on the car.
You already have headers and a offroad Y so thats you exhaust all done, cutout isn't going to help. Your a stalled auto with good tires cutting a pretty decent 60ft for your mods. So getting it to launch harder without a bigger stall is going to be tough. The way i see it you have some options:
1.) Go on a diet that will fit your budget.
2.) Get some lower control arm relocation brackets. That will cure the excessive squatting you described. You have a very good chance of getting that 1.7-1.6 60ft your looking for. Do be afraid to try both holes to see what 60fts better.
3.) Take the belt off for every last chance of power.
In my opinion you have a very good chance of clipping twelves with relo brackets and taking the belt off. If your looking for anything past that your going to have to put some real mods on it man. Cam, nitrous, rockers, valve springs, heads, gears, weight reduction, supercharger, turbo, tuning software. Get what I'm saying? The next logical step is a set of 3.73 gears. They will definitely help the 60ft plus et and mph better. Your going to have to move passed your not wanting to do certain things to go faster. But i do understand the budget and not wanting to do the same thing twice.