smitty2919

No, that would be a mechanical failure. The light only comes on pertaining to the electrical circuit. Same goes for stock mechanical pump, it can only fail mechanically at which point you only have the temp gauge as a warning.

If a electric motor is not spinning then the circuit is open (light comes on) or the motor is spinning but the shaft to the impeller is snapped in two and you won't be able to detect that with a light.

BALLSS

Nothing wrong with wiring in a "no power" light option for a EWP. If the EWP itself failed internally but was still getting "power" the warning light would not come on.

aftermarket temp gauge like the one post with a pre-set temp light and/or buzzer would be triggered based on water temp which is what is important

For me I just use the stock temp gauge as my driving habit I keep frequent eye on all gauges. Have had the Mezierre HD for 17 years now and about 90k miles

Correct and properly installed wiring/relay/fuse is critical to any EWP install

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

I always keep a constant eye on my gauges, but with how hot these cars run, and on a hot summer day how mine heat soaks after I turn it off, I can see a head gasket getting fried very quickly after a pump fails.

I don't even know if it's at all possible, but I was going to look into doing some kind of flow sensor or switch that illuminates a light when water's not flowing through the engine/pump. Like I said, I don't know if I can find something I can adapt to an automotive water pump, but I do know that we install a flow switch on firepumps and sprinkler systems in apartment buildings that set off an alarm if flow is detected, which usually means a sprinkler head has gone off.

smitty2919

You could get all fancy with a flow gauge, but simply adding an aftermarket gauge with built in warning light will give you more accurate readings than factory and allow you to set a limit temp to warn you.

Before replacing my radiator/thermostat and went to EWP, I saw 235-240* (when racing) water temps on my LT1 (reverse flow cooling system) at which point I about **** then turned it off and let it cool. Racing was over at that point. But no damage was done thankfully.

Griffin aluminum radiator (custom mounted and custom fan shroud), 160* tstat, Meziere EWP and switched to Green universal coolant I can beat on my car in 80-90* heat at autocross for roughly 12+ runs between my wife and I practically hot lapping the car and it never goes over 200*.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

Haven't had my car on the track yet, but in the summer time and even right now in the cooler fall weather with a 160* t-stat (and I only run green coolant, dexcool sucks) cruising it runs about 170-180 degrees, but sitting or stopped it'll creep up to 210 and sometimes over. I don't know what it'll be at running it hard but at speed.

I did get a spare hood with a motor I bought and was going to cut in some heat extractors to see how well they will help with keeping the motor cool. An aluminum radiator is also on my list of to-do's before I really hit the track hard.

smitty2919

Money will be spent better in a better radiator before cutting into a hood.

Hood vents need to be done correctly in order to expel hot air efficiently. Do some research on that before you go cutting.

Oh an manual fan switch is a nice addition.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

manual fan override switch is definably on the list, I also am thinking about a pusher fan in front of the radiator.

I do plan on doing a lot of research before I cut into the hood, even though it's a bit of a junky hood, but in addition to any heat the vents may help with, I'd also like to design it for aerodynamics, as I hear these cars tend to float over 120.

smitty2919

No need for a pusher fan on a LT1 with properly operating stock puller fans. They move some air.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Autometer sells warning light and sensors, kinda look like shift lights. They sell various sensors to go with them, I'm getting ready to pick up on that goes off at 18 psi for oil press and one that goes off at 220° for coolant temp. If anything goes funky during that hour and a half race, I'll know it.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Light, also comes in silver-
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3239

Pressure indicator, 18 psi. They also have 30 and 50psi options-
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3241

Temperature indicator, this one is 190 off 220 on, there is also a 170 off 200 on-
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3247

smitty2919

I would still go with a aftermarket gauge with built in warning light. This gives you the ability to SEE what the temp is. I don't trust the stock gauges not to mention the resolution is vague. Having an engineering degree, I like to see numbers and able to quantify something.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

My whole gauge setup is autometer, but the design I chose didn't have a built in light. plus I prefer the big in your face light.