Frying the opti
Frying the opti One of my freinds has a 96 t/a auto, bone stock, and it seems I have to keep replacing his opti 2-4 times a year, more frequently lately. Does any1 know why he keeps burning them out? There is no oil on the thing, and no rust inside. These are the stock re-man opti's from advance auto. And the last time I replaced it, we only did the distributor, and put the old cap and rotor back on, and now his car wont even start. And I changed it 2 days prior to the non-running.
Thanx guys
Thanx guys
One of my freinds has a 96 t/a auto, bone stock, and it seems I have to keep replacing his opti 2-4 times a year, more frequently lately. Does any1 know why he keeps burning them out? There is no oil on the thing, and no rust inside. These are the stock re-man opti's from advance auto. And the last time I replaced it, we only did the distributor, and put the old cap and rotor back on, and now his car wont even start. And I changed it 2 days prior to the non-running.
Thanx guys
Thanx guys
There's your answer. Pony up the dough and buy a real AC Delco or Delphi opti. You can get one from "thepartsladi" on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96...mZ350164091245
I bought one for him, ac delco, and it fried within 5 months. Had a year warranty on it, so Iexchanged it, and put the new one on, and that one only lasted 4 months. I had the same problem on mine, and I said screw it, and bought the msd pro billit dist. I've never had a problem with the MSD, but he doesn't have 550 to pony up for it.
I bought one for him, ac delco, and it fried within 5 months. Had a year warranty on it, so Iexchanged it, and put the new one on, and that one only lasted 4 months. I had the same problem on mine, and I said screw it, and bought the msd pro billit dist. I've never had a problem with the MSD, but he doesn't have 550 to pony up for it.
With any new opti, regardless of the brand, you should remove the cap and thread lock the rotor screws. That goes for your MSD as well, it has and does happen to them too.
How much did you pay for that AC Delco that you say you bought him? If you paid anything less than ~250, it wasn't OEM. Buy the opti I linked you, thread lock the rotor screws, and it should last 100k miles. Assuming the WP doesn't explode on it or he doesn't take it for a drive in a lake anywhere.
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the car will start sputtering and popping, and within a week of that, it wont start at all. If you change the opti, it will start right up, and be running with no problem for 3-4 months. After 3-4 months, the sputtering and popping starts up, and repeats the cycle all over again. All the vaccuum lines are hooked on correctly, so I dont think its moisture. I even siliconed 1 around all the edges, and it lasted the longest, about 7 months.
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Verdad Gallardo the car will start sputtering and popping, and within a week of that, it wont start at all. If you change the opti, it will start right up, and be running with no problem for 3-4 months. After 3-4 months, the sputtering and popping starts up, and repeats the cycle all over again. All the vaccuum lines are hooked on correctly, so I dont think its moisture. I even siliconed 1 around all the edges, and it lasted the longest, about 7 months.
yeah, he paid over 400 for the ac delco, and it came completely assembled. I'll go ahead and put that thread lock on there, and hopefully that helps, cuz im tired of changing that damn opti!!!!!!!!!!!
Vent hoses
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Opti harness
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Usually upon disassembly, you should be able to see the rotor and contacts and see if they are corroded or worn. If not then it is the optical portion. I believe that the optical sensor is what varies from gm opti to the aftermarket opti. This sensor is made by Mitsubishi, and used in other vehicles.
I have changed several. Always new Delco units. Have never seen thread locker on the rotor screws. Never found the screws tight either. As already mentioned, avoid parts store remans like the plague.
